Wood Lathe...

[Zims Rack]

Who makes this kind of wood lathe, where's a good place to buy one and what's a good price?
http://www.tedharris.com/images/shop_sanding_shafts.gif

Thanks,
Zim

[Ring]

What do you want to use it for?

[blud]

Who makes this kind of wood lathe, where's a good place to buy one and what's a good price?
http://www.tedharris.com/images/shop_sanding_shafts.gif

Thanks,
Zim
Hey Zimmer, the lathe could be a Sears, or Harbor-freight, or any other brand. They sell for about $160.00 or so. I used many of these over the years. I stepped up to a Jet, lathe, which sells for about $520.00 or so. It has a speed control built in. { i have 3 of them, one for the road and two in my shop]. Works good for me, you have seen it before, when we were at the windy city tourny. You may not recall seeing it? Get a hold of Tony, at Tiger Products, { 1-800-584-4375 }, he has a jet knock off, that works very well, for around $275.00.....tell him I sent you.
good luck
blud

[Zims Rack]

Thanks Blud! I was thinking about getting one after the new year to sand, wrap or apply a finish! Just getting ideas!
I remember seeing it in Chicago, but don't recall all the details!

Thanks,
Zim

[rhncue]

Thanks Blud! I was thinking about getting one after the new year to sand, wrap or apply a finish! Just getting ideas!
I remember seeing it in Chicago, but don't recall all the details!

Thanks,
Zim

I've had one of those for thirty years now. It's run thousands of hours and the only things I've had to replace was the tail-stock rolling center 4 or 5 times and about three years ago I changed the spindle and bearings. Mine is a five speed and I do sanding, wraps, polishing shafts and rubbing out cues on it. I don't think Sears carries it any longer but H/F puts them on sale all the time for 139.00.
Dick

[Cue Crazy]

I have a cleaner lathe designed like that, and It's a craftsman. It's not the real old craftsmen, but about the same housing used on mine, they just added a plastic casing over that for safety. My lathe even came with indexing. it's not variable, it uses a step pully design, but could probably be converted.

Only payed 100 bucks for it about 10 years or more back. It was pretty new at the time. Found it locally, and it came with a large set of skews in new condition. It was also mounted on a metal cabinet with drawers that had some other wood working tools stored in it.


You can find deals on them used sometimes. I have another wood lathe that uses two pipes as a bed.

Blud's correct that harbor frieghts has one designed like it also. think they have another lathe simular to a jet solid casted bed lathe also for a good price, but It's alittle more money. I'm Sure the jet is nicer though. Greg

[will8834]

I have a cleaner lathe designed like that, and It's a craftsman. It's not the real old craftsmen, but about the same housing used on mine, they just added a plastic casing over that for safety. My lathe even came with indexing. it's not variable, it uses a step pully design, but could probably be converted.

Only payed 100 bucks for it about 10 years or more back. It was pretty new at the time. Found it locally, and it came with a large set of skews in new condition. It was also mounted on a metal cabinet with drawers that had some other wood working tools stored in it.


You can find deals on them used sometimes. I have another wood lathe that uses two pipes as a bed.

Blud's correct that harbor frieghts has one designed like it also. think they have another lathe simular to a jet solid casted bed lathe also for a good price, but It's alittle more money. I'm Sure the jet is nicer though. Greg

How would you mount the shaft or but to the lathe pictured. I have not done much lathe work but is there somewhere special you would need to order the tooling from to hold a finished shaft or but.
Does the chris hightower book explain basics such as this.

[rhncue]

How would you mount the shaft or but to the lathe pictured. I have not done much lathe work but is there somewhere special you would need to order the tooling from to hold a finished shaft or but.
Does the chris hightower book explain basics such as this.

I have a 1/2" chuck mounted on mine and I have pins for all the shaft threads. For butts I've made female bushings to fit all the different pins out of 1" aluminum bar and turned a 1/2" tang on the end to fit the chuck.
Dick

[Murray Tucker]

Who makes this kind of wood lathe, where's a good place to buy one and what's a good price?
http://www.tedharris.com/images/shop_sanding_shafts.gif

Thanks,
Zim

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42816

[RSB-Refugee]

I have a 1/2" chuck mounted on mine and I have pins for all the shaft threads. For butts I've made female bushings to fit all the different pins out of 1" aluminum bar and turned a 1/2" tang on the end to fit the chuck.
I have a Craftsman, just like that. It has a 3/4"-16 spindle with #1 MT. The tailstock is also #1 MT. I made a live center for the tailstock, and have a 1/2" Jacob's chuck at the headstock. Blud mentioned a while back using a bullnose center on the headstock and a concave live center in the tailsock for turning butts. I tried that method, and I like it. You do not have to take any time threading the pin into a driver. I also have a sewing machine motor mounted on the board for driving the lathe slowly. Does anyone know, if it would be possible to convert a lathe like this to variable speed, without changing motors?

Tracy

[DaveK]

Does anyone know, if it would be possible to convert a lathe like this to variable speed, without changing motors?

Tracy

Assuming that the motor is a standard 110VAC 60Hz induction motor, the basic answer is no. They run at a 'fixed' speed typically 1750 rpm. In reality the motor speed depends on the line frequency (60 hz in NA) and to some extent with the load on the motor (with no load they will spin at a bit under 1800 RPM). These motors can be speed adjusted using a variable frequency drive, but I understand that the spped-range and overall performance is poor, so it is not a recommended solution.

There have been good deals on surplus 'tread mill' (DC) motors and controllers over the years, and you may be able to find a reasonable solution that way. I paid well under $50 Canadian for a 2hp (ya, right, it might be lucky to produce 1 full horsepower) motor and controller from Princess Auto a few years back.

Dave

[blud]

I have a Craftsman, just like that. It has a 3/4"-16 spindle with #1 MT. The tailstock is also #1 MT. I made a live center for the tailstock, and have a 1/2" Jacob's chuck at the headstock. Blud mentioned a while back using a bullnose center on the headstock and a concave live center in the tailsock for turning butts. I tried that method, and I like it. You do not have to take any time threading the pin into a driver. I also have a sewing machine motor mounted on the board for driving the lathe slowly. Does anyone know, if it would be possible to convert a lathe like this to variable speed, without changing motors?

Tracy
Tracy, no, you would have to change motors. Go to a DC drive.

The good thing about the Jet one is, it's got a lever to rotate and speed up or slow down your spindle speed. I also added a drum switch to my motors, making them have forward and reverse. Some guys say it can't be done, but I've had no trouble having these reversed with my electric motor guy for years now.
blud

[Murray Tucker]

Does anyone know, if it would be possible to convert a lathe like this to variable speed, without changing motors?

Tracy

You have to change the motor. I have a DC variable on mine plus a few other modifications. For what I have spent I could have bought a real lathe but this is one piece of equipment that I can't live without.

http://www.murraytucker.com/images/lathe.jpg

[Cue Crazy]

How would you mount the shaft or but to the lathe pictured. I have not done much lathe work but is there somewhere special you would need to order the tooling from to hold a finished shaft or but.
Does the chris hightower book explain basics such as this.


I have used almost everything mentioned before this response, so there are several ways. Mine is the same as tracy's craftsman from the sound of it. Same thread pattern, and it uses MT1. I have a drill chuck thats mounted to a Morse taper 1 arbor. You can mount It in the headstock or tailstock. I have a few MT1 centers also, but with the drill chuck I can mount drives with the correct thread pattern to run the shafts. the butts can be mounted several ways, as they tend to vary by design, but a bull nose center would work in most cases. You can make threaded insert like pieces to screw on the threads and center drill them on the ends to fit a live center for the tailstock, but some of the pins i have been making on my cues are center drilled and would not need them to mount. you can also use female drives at the headstock, and a bull nose live center at the tailstock to fit the butt cap.

There really many ways to do it depending on what it's need for.

BTW, I just got a flyer from the local store today, kind of ironic, but this model here is the other one i mentioned, and is on sale in it for $199 In My flyer http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34706

Hope this helps, Greg

[rhncue]

I have used almost everything mentioned before this response, so there are several ways. Mine is the same as tracy's craftsman from the sound of it. Same thread pattern, and it uses MT1. I have a drill chuck thats mounted to a Morse taper 1 arbor. You can mount It in the headstock or tailstock. I have a few MT1 centers also, but with the drill chuck I can mount drives with the correct thread pattern to run the shafts. the butts can be mounted several ways, as they tend to vary by design, but a bull nose center would work in most cases. You can make threaded insert like pieces to screw on the threads and center drill them on the ends to fit a live center for the tailstock, but some of the pins i have been making on my cues are center drilled and would not need them to mount. you can also use female drives at the headstock, and a bull nose live center at the tailstock to fit the butt cap.

There really many ways to do it depending on what it's need for.

BTW, I just got a flyer from the local store today, kind of ironic, but this model here is the other one i mentioned, and is on sale in it for $199 In My flyer http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34706

Hope this helps, Greg

That lathe go's on sale very often for 169.00. I've started to buy one two or three times but put it off. It's cast iron so should cut down on some vibrations. I've got an old Sears cast iron lathe that I don't have a place for yet or a use for. I may set it up just for leather wraps.
Dick

[Cue Crazy]

That lathe go's on sale very often for 169.00. I've started to buy one two or three times but put it off. It's cast iron so should cut down on some vibrations. I've got an old Sears cast iron lathe that I don't have a place for yet or a use for. I may set it up just for leather wraps.
Dick



Now that would be a good price on that lathe. Might have to grab one when I see that price come up again.

I know how It is, have the craftsman setup in a garage, and I hardly use It anymore, the other one is not even setup, because I don't have the room either. Hoping before too long that I'll be able to set everything I have up, and then some. Greg

[will8834]

I am having trouble understanding how you hold the tip part of the shaft on a lathe. I understand the holding of the threaded end but with a cue with a tip you cant connect to the tip end. Sorry if this is a obvious answer. I whent to a local wood crafts shop and asked them if they sold any thing that would hold a the shaft in the middle instead of the end. All they could suggest was a 3 point stabilizer. This is not the type of thing i have seen before. What i have seen before. Something that completely encircles the shaft.
If I am not very clear on what I am asking I apologize.
I was wanting to get a lathe from harbor freight to tip cues and try to do some general repairs. Maybe rewarpping.
If any one has any idea where I could get the attachment to hold the shaft it would be great.
thanks

[RSB-Refugee]

If any one has any idea where I could get the attachment to hold the shaft it would be great.
thanks
You can use a concave live center (http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3727). You can buy them in a lot of places. I made my own, it cost me almost as much and took all day, but it was a good experience.

Tracy

[will8834]

I dont think this is what I am looking for. I was looking for something that attaches the the middle of the shaft. The shaft goes through it and the tip is not attached to the end of the shaft.

[shakes]

I'm not sure that we understand what you are asking, but perhaps this is what you are looking for.

http://www.cuesmith.com/index.php?menu1=menu_lathes&page=cue_lathe_micro_3

Check out the second picture, and the rear end of the shaft, and see if that is what you are talking about. If so, Chris sells them off of his website for I believe $95. That's a bearing steady rest. Depending on what kind of lathe you have, you may have to make something like it to fit your lathe.

If that's not what you are talking about, perhaps you are talking about a collet? It goes over the tip of the shaft where you are clamping the chuck so the teeth do not mar the shaft?

Hope this helps,

~Shakes

[Cue Crazy]

Yeah I think the question is about a steady rest.

Most anything I use a wood lathe for does'nt require one, and the concave live center is what is mostly used to hold the end of the shaft. They are basically few operations usually done with them. Operations that could be done are things like shaft sanding, cleaning, and sealing. Some people use one with a small motor and foot control mounted on it for wrapping also. They have been modified with a low RPM motor for spraying also (caution with spraying though as the motor could ignite some sprays if the correct types are'nt used or the fumes, and/or are not ventlated correctly). I guess you could work off of a steady bearing if you had one made to fit it, but a lathe better suited for operations like that would be the best way to go. Woodlathes would not be My first choice for working tips off a steady, but It's been done. The best way is coming out of a headstock with a collet IMO, and most wood lathes have no through hole for that, as well as no crosslide for when that is needed.

Greg

[Tommy-D]

> I can tell you that some of the Chinese wood lathes can be impossible to find a chuck for,because of the spindle thread. The one I bought for 99.00 from a traveling tool company had a spindle thread of 18mm-2.5,and the chuck I bought from Chris is 3/4-16,so I went to a machine shop and had adapters made to fit the big chuck and the 1/2-20 Jacobs on the tailstock. These are 1.500 x 3.000 CR steel,internally threaded 18mm-2.5,and deep enough that they bottom out on the tailstock and spindle,with a 1/2 long tenon on the end,threaded to fit the new chucks. I didn't start machine shop school until several years after this,and didn't know anyone that hook me up on them,so I paid 35.00 each for them. A friend that wanted to learn to do his own shafts bought the same lathe I did but got a friend to cut the metric threads off the spindle and rethread it 3/4-16 and had a 4" Bison chuck GIVEN to him,dammit. Add the cost of the 2 chucks and adapters and I spent twice as much to get it spinning shafts as I did for the machine,but from what I hear here,that is almost normal. Tommy D.

[Jack Flanagan]

will8834,,,,,,,,,, harborfreight.com sells a cheap lathe steady rest,,,what I did was replace the steel wheels with urethane skateboard wheels (wal-mart skateboard less than $10),,,required a little crafting, works fine,,,need to keep the wheels clean and they must not touch/roll against each other,,,,,,,,,,,,,,jflan

[Krypto]

Being the cheap guy that I am, I think I know exactly what our friend is looking for. I started off with the same questions a couple of years ago, and I found it very frustrating that cuemakers would not offer any guidance or advice. All you would be told is "Buy Hightowers book", or "you can't build a cue without a metal lathe." Well, I eventually did buy the book and video, but I did so after purchasing my first $99 wood lathe. Here's some of what what I learned:

1. You are not going to build a cue with your $99 wood lathe. Rewraps and tip work will also be very difficult. The main problem is the vibration you get from the flimsy construction of the bed and the inaccurate centering between the headstock and the tailstock. These lathes are basically for new woodturners (like all of us were once) that want to turn some wood and get their feet wet. Keep the parts though, I still use mine to spin a metal cutting circular blade and I have used the other parts in various jigs in my shop.

2. My third lathe (after the $99 model) was another Chinese wood lathe, but it was a much improved model. It had a revolving headstock (for bowl turning) a heavy duty bed and plenty of length for turning 29 to 30 inch cue components. After buying a special four jaw chuck for the lathe, and an M2 taper drill chuck for the tailstock, I figured I was ready to make a cue. Well, I eventually did make a cue with this lathe (sorta kinda). I spent days turning some Wenge and Zebra wood down from 2" by 2" squares. As I got close to the right diameter, I would stop and check the size with my calipers. After turning and reaming a solid tenon joint to join the woods together, I glued and clamped them on the lathe.
3. The next day I drilled the joint pin hole by letting the joint end roll on some urethane skating wheels that I had adopted to a piece of pine at just the right height. The drill chuck in the tailstock reamed the hole pretty well.
4. I then started turning the wood again to center it on the new joint pin. When I got real close to the diameter that I wanted on each end of the cue, I worked on a gentle taper from the joint end to the butt. I finished this using a lot of sandpaper on the wood as the lathe turned. Result? A straight handle/Forearm that looked pretty good.
5. Shaft? Forget making a shaft on a wood lathe.It could be done, but believe me, you don't want to go there. It would be cheaper to go to the store and buy one that you can adapt. That is exactly what I did for this cue. A Minnesota Fats cue shaft was placed on my handmade forearm. I took the tailstock off my wood lathe and turned the whole assembled cue to turn the shaft down and match the forearm's joint diameter.
6. I can play with the cue I made, and it is reasonably straight. But it is nothing that I would sell or even give away. There are just too many imperfections. The Wenge was a tough wood to start off with, and I would not recommend it.
7. You can do tips and other work on a wood lathe if you make jigs like I have described here. But, you are really really taking the hard road my friend.
I just started playing with my new (used) 20" metal lathe, and Geez! This is so much easier. I have already made a jig to double the capacity of the lathe, and I look forward to turning out some nice shafts on it. Even so, I can already see the advantage of having taper bars and a larger spindle bore for Forearms.
8. I think learning this craft is an adventure that can be enjoyed as a hobby without throwing two grand or more at it right off. Hightower and Porper make good quality machines, but if you want to install tips only, I would suggest you start with a Taig Micro Lathe or a Sherline. They will both adapt easily and they have the features of a full metal lathe. You can make a simple steady rest out of a wooden plank and some table felt. Don't ask Taig for a longer bed though. One of our cue making friends has that market all tied up (smile). I wonder sometimes how he did this, but it is a fact. Taig will not sell you a long bed. You can make it yourself or pay The Man for it.
Good luck!

[will8834]

Being the cheap guy that I am, I think I know exactly what our friend is looking for. I started off with the same questions a couple of years ago, and I found it very frustrating that cuemakers would not offer any guidance or advice. All you would be told is "Buy Hightowers book", or "you can't build a cue without a metal lathe." Well, I eventually did buy the book and video, but I did so after purchasing my first $99 wood lathe. Here's some of what what I learned:

1. You are not going to build a cue with your $99 wood lathe. Rewraps and tip work will also be very difficult. The main problem is the vibration you get from the flimsy construction of the bed and the inaccurate centering between the headstock and the tailstock. These lathes are basically for new woodturners (like all of us were once) that want to turn some wood and get their feet wet. Keep the parts though, I still use mine to spin a metal cutting circular blade and I have used the other parts in various jigs in my shop.

2. My third lathe (after the $99 model) was another Chinese wood lathe, but it was a much improved model. It had a revolving headstock (for bowl turning) a heavy duty bed and plenty of length for turning 29 to 30 inch cue components. After buying a special four jaw chuck for the lathe, and an M2 taper drill chuck for the tailstock, I figured I was ready to make a cue. Well, I eventually did make a cue with this lathe (sorta kinda). I spent days turning some Wenge and Zebra wood down from 2" by 2" squares. As I got close to the right diameter, I would stop and check the size with my calipers. After turning and reaming a solid tenon joint to join the woods together, I glued and clamped them on the lathe.
3. The next day I drilled the joint pin hole by letting the joint end roll on some urethane skating wheels that I had adopted to a piece of pine at just the right height. The drill chuck in the tailstock reamed the hole pretty well.
4. I then started turning the wood again to center it on the new joint pin. When I got real close to the diameter that I wanted on each end of the cue, I worked on a gentle taper from the joint end to the butt. I finished this using a lot of sandpaper on the wood as the lathe turned. Result? A straight handle/Forearm that looked pretty good.
5. Shaft? Forget making a shaft on a wood lathe.It could be done, but believe me, you don't want to go there. It would be cheaper to go to the store and buy one that you can adapt. That is exactly what I did for this cue. A Minnesota Fats cue shaft was placed on my handmade forearm. I took the tailstock off my wood lathe and turned the whole assembled cue to turn the shaft down and match the forearm's joint diameter.
6. I can play with the cue I made, and it is reasonably straight. But it is nothing that I would sell or even give away. There are just too many imperfections. The Wenge was a tough wood to start off with, and I would not recommend it.
7. You can do tips and other work on a wood lathe if you make jigs like I have described here. But, you are really really taking the hard road my friend.
I just started playing with my new (used) 20" metal lathe, and Geez! This is so much easier. I have already made a jig to double the capacity of the lathe, and I look forward to turning out some nice shafts on it. Even so, I can already see the advantage of having taper bars and a larger spindle bore for Forearms.
8. I think learning this craft is an adventure that can be enjoyed as a hobby without throwing two grand or more at it right off. Hightower and Porper make good quality machines, but if you want to install tips only, I would suggest you start with a Taig Micro Lathe or a Sherline. They will both adapt easily and they have the features of a full metal lathe. You can make a simple steady rest out of a wooden plank and some table felt. Don't ask Taig for a longer bed though. One of our cue making friends has that market all tied up (smile). I wonder sometimes how he did this, but it is a fact. Taig will not sell you a long bed. You can make it yourself or pay The Man for it.
Good luck!

Thanks this was the info I was looking.

[Ring]

Being the cheap guy that I am, I think I know exactly what our friend is looking for. I started off with the same questions a couple of years ago, and I found it very frustrating that cuemakers would not offer any guidance or advice. All you would be told is "Buy Hightowers book", or "you can't build a cue without a metal lathe." Well, I eventually did buy the book and video, but I did so after purchasing my first $99 wood lathe. Here's some of what what I learned:

1. You are not going to build a cue with your $99 wood lathe. Rewraps and tip work will also be very difficult. The main problem is the vibration you get from the flimsy construction of the bed and the inaccurate centering between the headstock and the tailstock. These lathes are basically for new woodturners (like all of us were once) that want to turn some wood and get their feet wet. Keep the parts though, I still use mine to spin a metal cutting circular blade and I have used the other parts in various jigs in my shop.

2. My third lathe (after the $99 model) was another Chinese wood lathe, but it was a much improved model. It had a revolving headstock (for bowl turning) a heavy duty bed and plenty of length for turning 29 to 30 inch cue components. After buying a special four jaw chuck for the lathe, and an M2 taper drill chuck for the tailstock, I figured I was ready to make a cue. Well, I eventually did make a cue with this lathe (sorta kinda). I spent days turning some Wenge and Zebra wood down from 2" by 2" squares. As I got close to the right diameter, I would stop and check the size with my calipers. After turning and reaming a solid tenon joint to join the woods together, I glued and clamped them on the lathe.
3. The next day I drilled the joint pin hole by letting the joint end roll on some urethane skating wheels that I had adopted to a piece of pine at just the right height. The drill chuck in the tailstock reamed the hole pretty well.
4. I then started turning the wood again to center it on the new joint pin. When I got real close to the diameter that I wanted on each end of the cue, I worked on a gentle taper from the joint end to the butt. I finished this using a lot of sandpaper on the wood as the lathe turned. Result? A straight handle/Forearm that looked pretty good.
5. Shaft? Forget making a shaft on a wood lathe.It could be done, but believe me, you don't want to go there. It would be cheaper to go to the store and buy one that you can adapt. That is exactly what I did for this cue. A Minnesota Fats cue shaft was placed on my handmade forearm. I took the tailstock off my wood lathe and turned the whole assembled cue to turn the shaft down and match the forearm's joint diameter.
6. I can play with the cue I made, and it is reasonably straight. But it is nothing that I would sell or even give away. There are just too many imperfections. The Wenge was a tough wood to start off with, and I would not recommend it.
7. You can do tips and other work on a wood lathe if you make jigs like I have described here. But, you are really really taking the hard road my friend.
I just started playing with my new (used) 20" metal lathe, and Geez! This is so much easier. I have already made a jig to double the capacity of the lathe, and I look forward to turning out some nice shafts on it. Even so, I can already see the advantage of having taper bars and a larger spindle bore for Forearms.
8. I think learning this craft is an adventure that can be enjoyed as a hobby without throwing two grand or more at it right off. Hightower and Porper make good quality machines, but if you want to install tips only, I would suggest you start with a Taig Micro Lathe or a Sherline. They will both adapt easily and they have the features of a full metal lathe. You can make a simple steady rest out of a wooden plank and some table felt. Don't ask Taig for a longer bed though. One of our cue making friends has that market all tied up (smile). I wonder sometimes how he did this, but it is a fact. Taig will not sell you a long bed. You can make it yourself or pay The Man for it.
Good luck!



I got Tiag to qoute me something with a 1.5 inch spindle bore and a 34inch bed......

[RSB-Refugee]

I got Tiag to qoute me something with a 1.5 inch spindle bore and a 34inch bed......
What did they say?

Tracy

[Krypto]

If Taig would make such a machine, it would sell very well. I would buy one myself if it is anywhere near their standard lathe prices. I would like to know more info on this quote also, as I have called them and e-mailed them, and they refuse to even offer a longer bed (much less a larger spindle bore). I hope I am wrong, but they could be steering you back to a popular cuemaker and lathe designer that posts here on AZ regularly. That is exactly where they referred me on my inquiry. Again, nice equipment, but the price is higher than what one could buy a nice used metal lathe for. Control = money folks.

[Ring]

What did they say?

Tracy


Its saved on my work computer. Let me get back to you Monday. Plus I dont remember when i got it, so my little blurb could be outdated.

[Ring]

Its saved on my work computer. Let me get back to you Monday. Plus I dont remember when i got it, so my little blurb could be outdated.


Ok, I went down stairs and turned on my work computer (oh the effort I put out for you guys)

My qoute is from Jan 05. It was for the lathe with a 1 3/8 spindle bore. I didnt ask for a longer bed cause I figured that I could mount that piece on a bench or something so didnt need the longer bed.

$395 plus $120 for 2 chucks.

I didnt do it cause I thought I could get a better bang for my buck by buying a bigger used lathe and then getting a wood lathe for shaft/finishing/ wrapping etc.

I just wanted a nice big heavy lathe, and I thats what I got. (Clausing Colechester 13x36)

[JoeyInCali]

Ok, I went down stairs and turned on my work computer (oh the effort I put out for you guys)

My qoute is from Jan 05. It was for the lathe with a 1 3/8 spindle bore. I didnt ask for a longer bed cause I figured that I could mount that piece on a bench or something so didnt need the longer bed.

$395 plus $120 for 2 chucks.

I didnt do it cause I thought I could get a better bang for my buck by buying a bigger used lathe and then getting a wood lathe for shaft/finishing/ wrapping etc.

I just wanted a nice big heavy lathe, and I thats what I got. (Clausing Colechester 13x36)
Good choice.
Imo, one cannot make solid cues without metal lathe.