Rotating finish booth...

[Zims Rack]

Does anyone have any photos of some homemade finish booths? I'm looking at making one for 3-4 cues, nothing too elaborate, just to slow rotate the cues while applying the finish.

Where are some good places to buy the motor, pulleys/gears, dead centers, springs, etc.

If you prefer to keep it private, michael@zimsrack.com

Thanks,
Zim

[rhncue]

Does anyone have any photos of some homemade finish booths? I'm looking at making one for 3-4 cues, nothing too elaborate, just to slow rotate the cues while applying the finish.

Where are some good places to buy the motor, pulleys/gears, dead centers, springs, etc.

If you prefer to keep it private, michael@zimsrack.com

Thanks,
Zim

Actually they are very easy to build but a little time consuming trying to explain how. Chris Hightowers book on cue-building has an example in it even with measurements for building.

You can get gear reduction motors very cheaply from here http://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp?UID=2005121521485203

I made my own pullies and centers out of .500" drill rod and 1.5" polypropelyne that I had lying around. I got springs and bearings from MSC if I remember right and used round belts from a vacume cleaner for belts.

Dick

[Zims Rack]

Actually they are very easy to build but a little time consuming trying to explain how. Chris Hightowers book on cue-building has an example in it even with measurements for building.

You can get gear reduction motors very cheaply from here http://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp?UID=2005121521485203

I made my own pullies and centers out of .500" drill rod and 1.5" polypropelyne that I had lying around. I got springs and bearings from MSC if I remember right and used round belts from a vacume cleaner for belts.

Dick
Dick,
I didn't realize that rhncue is you! I've heard good things about your work on cues from Elmer Posadas in England. He recently purchased a cue from you (Fall 2005 I think). Do you have a photo of two of your booth that you can send me? michael@zimsrack.com

Thanks,
Zim

[cuesmith]

Dick,
I didn't realize that rhncue is you! I've heard good things about your work on cues from Elmer Posadas in England. He recently purchased a cue from you (Fall 2005 I think). Do you have a photo of two of your booth that you can send me? michael@zimsrack.com

Thanks,
Zim


Here's a shot of mine!

Sherm

[Zims Rack]

Thanks Sherm! That's looks fairly simple to assemble. What are the pulleys and centers made of? Appears to be delrin or something similar!

Thanks,
Zim

[cuesmith]

Thanks Sherm! That's looks fairly simple to assemble. What are the pulleys and centers made of? Appears to be delrin or something similar!

Thanks,
Zim


Zim,
I used delrin for for the pulleys and the part the cue threads in to. Also the tailstocks were made of delrin with a piece of 3/8" allthread through the spindle portion to stiffen them up. I made spring loaded centered for the tailstock spindles and the bearings have set screws to adjust for longer or shorter cues. I used delrin for all the pieces that would get overspray on them so they can be cleaned off easily. I've already changed out the motor and top pulley for a chain and sprocket as I had a slipping problem. I'm getting ready to replace all of the belts & pulleys with chains and sprockets. Had one of the top belts break without my noticing it after spraying a batch of cues and had to refinish 4 of the cues with sagging clear coat on them! Don't want that to happen again!

I bought the bearings at the place Dickie placed the link from and had everything else in the shop or made from scratch.

Sherm

[Michael Webb]

That's a real nice set up Sherm.

[cuesmith]

That's a real nice set up Sherm.


Thanks Mike! I'll try to post new pics tomorrow of the mods I just made. I removed all the belts and pulleys and changed it over to chains and sprockets. Had some slippage problems with the belts and had one of the top ones break, after spraying a coat of finish on the cues, leaving me with 4 cues to refinish with sagging clearcoat on one side! Won't have that problem again. The #35 chains work great.

Sherm

[Cuedog]

Here's a shot of mine!

Sherm

Hello Sherm, I noticed that there is no sign of residue from the spray. Is this a new rack that you are showing here? How long have you used it or one like it?

Very nice design!! Anxious to read your reply my friend.

Gene

[Michael Webb]

Thanks Mike! I'll try to post new pics tomorrow of the mods I just made. I removed all the belts and pulleys and changed it over to chains and sprockets. Had some slippage problems with the belts and had one of the top ones break, after spraying a coat of finish on the cues, leaving me with 4 cues to refinish with sagging clearcoat on one side! Won't have that problem again. The #35 chains work great.

Sherm

Are you using UV or clearcoat urethane.

[cuesmith]

Are you using UV or clearcoat urethane.
Mike,
I'm doing a 3 stage finish.
1) 2 part Axon Insulator (kinda like a clear primer that makes the finishes stick equally well on all materials. Also keeps oily woods like cocobolo from bleeding onto the adjoining pieces)
2) UV Clearcoat as a build up sealer. As many coats as needed to fill every pore and "suck hole", then I sand it good and flat.
3) Automotive urethane clearcoat, 2-3 coats. This give it the gloss and buffs easily. I use the "rack" on steps 1 & 3 and my UV setup, which does them one at a time for step #2.

Sounds involved, but it works better than anything else I've tried over the last 25 years!

Sherm

[Michael Webb]

I bet it's easier than it sounds,

[cuesmith]

Hello Sherm, I noticed that there is no sign of residue from the spray. Is this a new rack that you are showing here? How long have you used it or one like it?

Very nice design!! Anxious to read your reply my friend.

Gene
Gene, I took this pic as I was originally finishing it up. I'll post some more pics tomorrow with the mods and even though I've sprayed about 50 cues on it, there's not much residue with the hvlp jam gun I'm using. Most of the finish ends up on the cue.

Sherm

[iusedtoberich]

Sherm and other's with similar setups: Don't you guys worry about arcing from the motor causing explosion hazards with solvent based paints? I've read so much on the topic saying you need non-arcing motors (induction motors instead of brush motors), switches sealed with rubber, etc. On the other hand, I've had guys who work in auto shops tell me they did everything the "dangerous way" (smoke while spraying, non-explosion proof booths, etc.) and never had a problem.

I wonder how real the danger actually is when spraying solvent based paints without TOTALLY explosion proof setups.

[Michael Webb]

Sherm and other's with similar setups: Don't you guys worry about arcing from the motor causing explosion hazards with solvent based paints? I've read so much on the topic saying you need non-arcing motors (induction motors instead of brush motors), switches sealed with rubber, etc. On the other hand, I've had guys who work in auto shops tell me they did everything the "dangerous way" (smoke while spraying, non-explosion proof booths, etc.) and never had a problem.

I wonder how real the danger actually is when spraying solvent based paints without TOTALLY explosion proof setups.

I did some research on this when I built my spray booth, it would take an awful lot of spraying to produce a cloud big enough to actually explode. With the use of fans and squirrel cages for exhaust, odds are pretty slim. What ever product is being sprayed, you must do your homework.

[cuemaker03]

Mike, how many cubic feet per minute is needed to remove the fumes?

[Michael Webb]

Mike, how many cubic feet per minute is needed to remove the fumes?

I wish I had the correct answer for you but I don't, When I did the booth the guys from the auto body shop helped, I'm still kicking which I think is good and no smell goes up stairs.

[cuemaker03]

Can you post or PM a picture of the booth? Do you spin and spray or spray turn the cue and spray again overlaping the finish?

[sixballrun]

Here's a shot of mine!

Sherm

i am curious, at what rpm do you have your cues spinning? by the size of the pulleys, it looks like your step down factor is about 1/3? how many rpm's is that motor?

[rhncue]

i am curious, at what rpm do you have your cues spinning? by the size of the pulleys, it looks like your step down factor is about 1/3? how many rpm's is that motor?

To answer a couple of questions. My spraying set-up is very similer to Sherm's. You are supposed to use an explosion proof motor in a spraying area but those are very exspensive. I, myself, use an attic exaust fan that moves a little over 1600 cubic feet of air a minute. That is a lot of volume so I figure that it dilutes the finish enough not to start a fire, hopefully. I do keep a fire extinguisher right there. I have my cue spinning set-up at about 4' from the floor and the top about 6', it is 1' from the wall. Mine does three cues at a time now as I needed to take out the bottom two cue holders to make room for a rolling lathe that goes thru a tunnell with my U.V. light. The spindle set up is framed in and the window is at about 7.5' so that I'm not spraying directly at the fan but close enough so that all the overspray goes out the window.

The rpm of the shafts needs to be around 75 to 100 rpm. If they spin to fast centrifical force will roll up the finish and to slowly it may sag.
Dick

[Zims Rack]

Are these bearings okay to use?
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1872852&PMT4NO=18601416

I will have a small room dedicated just to spraying finish on the cues and plan to build a spray booth to hold 4-6 cues at a time. I will have a bathroom with an outside exhaust close by that I could tap into for ventilation. What is a good fan or what is the minimum CFM that is required to suck the fumes out of the spraying room? How big of a diameter is needed?
Any suggestions for a reasonably prices exhaust fan?

Thanks,
Zim

[cutter]

Anybody want to mention UV clear brands. I've tried epoxy based and polyester based and didn't like either. Had a customer(auto refinisher) who turned me on to Transtar Euro Clear 2/1 ratio auto clear coat. I cheat and add 1 part ureathane thinner and it shots like the old PPG 2020.
Really bright finish. About 180.00 for 1 gallon finish and 1/2 gallon hardner.

[rhncue]

Anybody want to mention UV clear brands. I've tried epoxy based and polyester based and didn't like either. Had a customer(auto refinisher) who turned me on to Transtar Euro Clear 2/1 ratio auto clear coat. I cheat and add 1 part ureathane thinner and it shots like the old PPG 2020.
Really bright finish. About 180.00 for 1 gallon finish and 1/2 gallon hardner.

I use a U.V. finish but just use it for a filler and build coat. I put on as many coats as necessary for a smooth, completely encased film and then I spray Transtar clear but it's not Euro clear. Stuff I use is 4/1 ratio and I also add Transtar reducer to thin out a little.

Dick

[cutter]

I use to use the 4-1, but really fell in love with the Euro, only problem I have with it is the local store only cares the gallon size. They stock smaller in the 4-1. If you can get a sample, try it, IMHO it's much brighter and polishes out nicer than the 4-1 stuff. I tried the transtar uv finish, but it didn't seem real clear to me. I only have a 200wpi light, so may not be getting a full cure.

[billiardbum]

I use to use the 4-1, but really fell in love with the Euro, only problem I have with it is the local store only cares the gallon size. They stock smaller in the 4-1. If you can get a sample, try it, IMHO it's much brighter and polishes out nicer than the 4-1 stuff. I tried the transtar uv finish, but it didn't seem real clear to me. I only have a 200wpi light, so may not be getting a full cure.
If you are interested in UV Finish, I sell a finish that you might be interested in. In our opinion this is the best UV finish on the market for Cues. Sprays great, settles nice, builds good, sands and buffs to a beautiful shine. Also will pass all test for adhesion. PM me if interested. Jim