I'm with Ken on this one... heres why...
For those who are inclined to try "Butcher Bowling Alley Wax"...
I started using Butchers Bowling Alley Wax back in the mid 80's.
I used to have reservations on using wax on my shafts because there is "no such thing" as a moisture free wax. We all know that over time moisture and wood may start to disagree with one another. That can get scary these days if you spend $$$ on 10 piece "LD" shafts. However, the cost of a replacement shaft (should it begin to bow) is minimal compared to playing at your best. Nothing worse than missing that one crucial shot, because your shaft just decided to grab at your skin during a nice run. However, I've only had two shafts to ever warp at all on me and neither were ever waxed. That tells my a lot about the benefits of paste waxing your shaft and that it protects against moister, not the other way around.
Here are the reasons why I (personally) still prefer Butchers Bowling Alley Wax after 30 years. I have tested different waxes on cast-iron surfaces at work. Most all carnauba waxes held up well, but my test always took me back to Butchers brand. The metal test showed me several things including moisture content (how long before rust would begin to appear) and how long the wax maintained a smooth glide.
1) It seems to have the least amount of water (if any) of all of the waxes that I've tested (as far as carnauba waxes go anyway). BTW... every non-carnauba based wax failed badly.
2) The (rock-hard) coating lasted the longest and held up the best against rust & heat friction (on the metal test) and can take many months of 30-40 hours a week of billiard friction before you start to notice it breaking down. Even on break cues.
3) It sets up quickly (so don't coat your shaft and let it set for 30 minutes or you'll have a hard time getting it to polish out). You'll want to buff it out before it starts to fully harden. Test it on a scrap of sanded wood to get a feel for how long you should let it set. Just a few minutes is plenty of time. Basically "wax on... wax off".
4) Unless you're finishing your floors, a can of Butchers will last you a lifetime (if stored under climate control... like under the kitchen sink)... and you can use it on anything wood (or metal).
5) BBAW also cleans the finish well while you're waxing. I just wipe the shaft down well with a dry microfiber cloth before applying the wax to remove any dust or micro debris.
6) The glide that it creates is unbelievable. I have coated large metal tables with BBAW and can shove about 200# of 40" x 28" x 6" stacked paper several feet across the table (using only one hand) with very little effort. Without the wax you can't get the stack to budge (using both hands) and the other carnaubas that I tested had noticeably more resistance.
(For Newbies)... Car wax is made for finished metals , Butchers Wax is made for bare and finished wood. Ultimately humidity (in most areas) will likely cause more moisture damage over time than any quality carnauba wax ever could. Also a bonus to waxing is that your shaft (using the right wax) should never start bluing out on you. So unless you have a museum piece stick that only hangs in a display case... wax that shaft!
PS>>> DON'T USE STUFF LIKE "LEMON PLEDGE" >>> THE WATER CONTENT IN LEMON PLEDGE IS 70%-85%!!! LOOK IT UP!!! MOST FURNITURE HAS A THICK STAIN COVERED IN A HEAVY VARNISHED COATING. SO IT ALREADY REPEALS WATER BETTER AND IS DESIGNED FAR LESS FRAGILE THAN A LONG, SLENDER CUE SHAFT. SHAFTS DON'T HAVE THE SAME MULTI-COATED FINISH AS FURNITURE. MIGHT AS WELL USE A WET RAG. PLEDGE IS A POLISH (MOSTLY USED FOR ADDING SHINE)... NOT A WAX. Or use Pledge if you want to... it's your shaft not mine.