A couple of other joint characteristics to consider
Shawn Armstrong said:
Allison used to use a Cuetec. It was a stainless steel ring only - it was pretty much a plastic joint. Efren used to use a SS jointed cue, but his QP and Judd cues both had phenolic joints. Joint material makes absolutely no difference in the way a cue plays. Because I like a front heavy cue, I like SS. But, I have hit some pretty nice ebony cues with phenolic joints. To me, it's about balance rather than joint material.
Shawn:
Great info about the joint affecting the balance point of the cue! There are many variations on the theme of a cue's joint: "metal-to-metal," "metal-to-wood," "wood-to-wood," etc. These variations, of course, do not describe the pin itself, but rather what materal in the shaft "mates up" with what material in the butt -- i.e. the contact point when the final closure of the joint happens during that last twist of the joint; what material "butts up" against what material. Each "[material]-to-[material]" has its pros and cons. Metal-to-metal joints definitely affect the balance point of the cue, and many players (such as yourself) prefer this shift forward in the balance point.
One other thing to keep in mind for these "[material]-to-[material]" considerations is the "hit feedback" a cue offers when striking a ball. Many metal-to-metal joints "deaden" the hit feedback so that the shock/vibrations do not reach the player's gripping hand. (Think of the metal acting as a "barrier" to the shock/vibrations.) Thus, the hit has somewhat of a "buttery" feel which many players like.
Other "play-by-touch" players (myself included) prefer as much hit feedback as possible, and for us, a wood-to-wood joint, using either a metal or phenolic pin, is preferred. A wood-to-wood joint using a Radial Pin (trademarked by Uni-Loc Corp.), or the non-proprietary form known as a "ball-thread pin," enhances the hit feedback by ensuring an absolutely tight-mating joint with no "slop." ("Slop" meaning no gaps in the contact between the wood and the metal surfaces of the pin inside when fully threaded. This is as opposed to normal "V-cut thread" pins where the apex/point of the "V" on the wood side dulls and wears down quickly -- or even never existed at all due to that tiny peak/angle of wood fracturing at the grain during the friction of the thread-cutting itself -- which leaves gaps in the contact points between the metal and the wood.)
Anyway, I hope this is helpful information. Great thread, btw!
-Sean
