What is the best way to remove a pin and install a new one? I have a butt with a bent pin.
removing a pin
- Thread starter Dave in ohio
- Start date
dave sutton
Banned
i heat it up with a blow torch. i have a mini torch very small then vice grips. let it get really hot and be carful you dont set the cue on fire. you can wrap a wet paper towel around the joint.
some say plug redrill and tap. if its the same pin i just let it sit overnight retasp andepoxy and install new pin. epoxy will dry and you need to retap the threads to get rid of the old epoxy. the new pin wont go in.
some say plug redrill and tap. if its the same pin i just let it sit overnight retasp andepoxy and install new pin. epoxy will dry and you need to retap the threads to get rid of the old epoxy. the new pin wont go in.
Dave,there are several ways.This is NOT a beginners procedure.
1.Chuck up the butt in an engine lathe,cut the bent pin fairly close to the joint ,a hacksaw works fine.Starting w/ a 1/8" drill,then progressively larger bits,drill out the old pin.Bore to 3.5" deep, then use a 1/2" to 9/16bit, or better still, BORE and plug w/ a dowel.Re-bore & tap.Install new pin.2.Call me for a higher risk, but a lot easier way.(806)-778-1957
1.Chuck up the butt in an engine lathe,cut the bent pin fairly close to the joint ,a hacksaw works fine.Starting w/ a 1/8" drill,then progressively larger bits,drill out the old pin.Bore to 3.5" deep, then use a 1/2" to 9/16bit, or better still, BORE and plug w/ a dowel.Re-bore & tap.Install new pin.2.Call me for a higher risk, but a lot easier way.(806)-778-1957
sonofthunder said:
Partner, I have to disagree with you here. First of all drill bits wander, and with that said you actually stand a better chance of doing damage trying to drill out an old pin than by heating it.
When heating the pin, you should only apply heat to the pins tip, which will heat the entire pin gradually with out damage to the cues joint. In fact in most cases you do not have to bore a new hole and install a plug at all, you only have to re tap the the existing hole.
I have done this procedure more than 100 times without any problem, and I would not bother doing it any other way. The only thing I do differently, is after I have heated the pin, I put the pin in a vise for leverage and turn the cues butt off the old pin, then re tap, and install the new pin.
take Care
dave sutton
Banned
craig I agree. I would never try to cut and drill a pin out. I've also done it countless times without a hitch. Always used vice grips tho. I have straightened a few meucci pins but for all that work I just would put a new pin in. Lot of work bending also stress on the pin. I'd rather start new
?????????????
Wrap childrens play-dough around joint an no worries about scorching joint on plastic cues like moochies. There is absolutely no heat transfer to joint only to pin. I wish I could take credit for this idea but it was shown to me by our very own Sliprock. Its a winner............
Pinocchio
Wrap childrens play-dough around joint an no worries about scorching joint on plastic cues like moochies. There is absolutely no heat transfer to joint only to pin. I wish I could take credit for this idea but it was shown to me by our very own Sliprock. Its a winner............
Pinocchio
dave sutton said:
It also seems like trying to bend a pin would put a lot of stress on the pins set in the joint which could cause a failure of the adhesive or even fracture or crack the wood at the joint. I would still like to here how KJ does it.
I hope he answers this thread, I hate it when some one offers a suggestion but doesn't explain how they do it. From the tone of his post he just might have been being sarcastic, at least that is how it sounded to me.
take care
manwon said:
I don't believe he's being sarcastic as he has mentioned this before if I remember correctly. I have straightened a few before. I put the joint so that it is barely protruding from the chuck and use the tool post on the compound to nudge it over until it's runs true. Sometimes takes as long as two or even three minutes to straighten.
Dick
Manwon,
Since you've summoned my return, I'll respectfully begin with your quoted word.
Nothing like the combination of open flames and high dollar cues to get the ol blood flowin' eh? I see plenty of drama there. Keep it simple. Heat should ONLY be used as a last resort and that means, after you've exhausted every other conceivable option. Why expose the cue to the risk of further damage ie, bubbled finish, debonded collar/rings, split wood, etc. I'm not suggesting that heat doesn't work, far from it, it works real slick. I've followed that procedure several 100 times. More than enough times to come to the understanding that there are significant inherent risks involed that could easily be avoided by opting for a different method. Sometimes your options are limited. Elements of the cue or other criteria WILL DICTATE your method of removal. Consider the task of removing the pin from a solid ivory jointed cue. Would heat be your first choice? Or even sleeved over phenolic. Phenolic is an excellent insulator for electricity but does a pretty poor job of insulating heat. I suspect also that it expands with heat though I haven't found a good way to measure this other than witness the results.
There's no more stress involved in straightening the pin as there was to bend it in the first place. Stainless steel is extremely durable. If it's brass, that's a different story.
Dick suggested one method that I have also used. This method works well if prudent procedure is followed as do other methods. El Gato has many ways to lose his coating. One thing that apparently can't be stressed enough here (and in this section) is that there are many different ways of achieving the same end result. Give the different ways a look, you might like what you see.
Do as you like, it doesn't affect me. My interest was in saving the OP some time, expense and to avoid the risk of damaging the cue any further.
Sarcastic???????.....Who, me? Forgive me if I have a little fun at the world's expense. I figure it owes me.
Since you've summoned my return, I'll respectfully begin with your quoted word.
manwon said:
Nothing like the combination of open flames and high dollar cues to get the ol blood flowin' eh? I see plenty of drama there. Keep it simple. Heat should ONLY be used as a last resort and that means, after you've exhausted every other conceivable option. Why expose the cue to the risk of further damage ie, bubbled finish, debonded collar/rings, split wood, etc. I'm not suggesting that heat doesn't work, far from it, it works real slick. I've followed that procedure several 100 times. More than enough times to come to the understanding that there are significant inherent risks involed that could easily be avoided by opting for a different method. Sometimes your options are limited. Elements of the cue or other criteria WILL DICTATE your method of removal. Consider the task of removing the pin from a solid ivory jointed cue. Would heat be your first choice? Or even sleeved over phenolic. Phenolic is an excellent insulator for electricity but does a pretty poor job of insulating heat. I suspect also that it expands with heat though I haven't found a good way to measure this other than witness the results.
There's no more stress involved in straightening the pin as there was to bend it in the first place. Stainless steel is extremely durable. If it's brass, that's a different story.
Dick suggested one method that I have also used. This method works well if prudent procedure is followed as do other methods. El Gato has many ways to lose his coating. One thing that apparently can't be stressed enough here (and in this section) is that there are many different ways of achieving the same end result. Give the different ways a look, you might like what you see.
Do as you like, it doesn't affect me. My interest was in saving the OP some time, expense and to avoid the risk of damaging the cue any further.
Sarcastic???????.....Who, me? Forgive me if I have a little fun at the world's expense. I figure it owes me.
speakng of pin removal someone on az had a tool that you could use on anything metal and would remove it without any heat. It was probly the coolest tool I have ever seen.. Does anyone rember this thread??? If so please post a link..
thanks
thanks
JBCustomCues said:
I remember the thread well. The tool was for removing studs from cars and such. It used heat but the heat only affected the metal pin that got hot very quickly so that the glue broke down without the surrounding material having a chance to heat up. I looked into buying the tool but the cost was 600.00.
Dick
You are referring to a tool called an "mini-ductor" It is essentially a microwave that is portable as I understand the manual. It jiggles the molecules of the metal which creates heat. They are expensive but handy. Here is a scrap cue I pulled the pin out of to test it before I bought it. The cue joint was room temp right as I removed the pin. The wire I used that heats the pin worked fine but there are more leads with the kit that you can wrap right on the pin and they heat it even quicker. I believe the one in these pics was heated for aprox 15-25seconds if memory serves me right.
I've used both methods of heating the pin to break the epoxy. With drilling, you're not really drilling the pin out, you're causing friction to create heat and then you can turn the pin out by reversing the the lathe with the bit still drilled into the pin. the pin will usually come right out. comes in handy when you don't have much of a pin to grab hold to.
Heating the pin is quicker and a little easier.
Literally drilling out the pin can cause more work and problems.
Barry
Heating the pin is quicker and a little easier.
Literally drilling out the pin can cause more work and problems.
Barry
Good info at and after post #9 on removing a pin.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=34404&highlight=drill+weld
*Edit: Looks like Barry beat me to the punch as I was searching for the right thread.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=34404&highlight=drill+weld
*Edit: Looks like Barry beat me to the punch as I was searching for the right thread.
thanks to all that responded. Just doesn't hurt to ask if your not sure.