what is a titlist and what is a sneaky pete??
thanks
thanks
silly question i know.....
- Thread starter mirdavanfe
- Start date
what is a titlist and what is a sneaky pete??
thanks
Titlist: Brunswick made 1 piece, full spliced, cues starting back in the early 1900s. These cues had 4 veneers on the points and are highly prized for conversion to 2 piece cues. http://titlist.onthestreets.org/history.html
http://www.cuemuseum.com/cues-1940s-50s/56-brunswick-titlist-cues.html
Example: http://forums.azbilliards.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=724&cat=all&si=Titleist
Sneaky Pete: Any 4 pointed cue that can be mistaken for a cheap bar cue. Although many make "fancy" sneaky petes with rings and inlays.
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thanks a lot man!
There are no silly questions to be asked. Thats how you learn.
If you don't know something, ask.
Now i on the other hand never ask because i know it all.
I drink a bit :thud:
If you don't know something, ask.
Now i on the other hand never ask because i know it all.
I drink a bit :thud:
And a Sneaky Pete is usually associated with a two piece cue that resembles a house cue. It probably has points but usually no veneers, and is wrap-less. No inlays or intricate ring work (may have simple rings). About the only add-on in the butt area is sometimes a simple Hoppe style ring.
The more it has on it, the less "sneaky" it is. :wink:
The more it has on it, the less "sneaky" it is. :wink:
were the sneaky Pete purposely designed to fool an eventual opponent into thinking you are no good and playing with house cue or it's just for ease of cue craft?
Well, while we are at it, what is the meaning of the term "full splice"? Measureman?
Dave Nelson
Dave Nelson
I do the opposite of using a sneaky pete. I use a nice cue. This way good players who do not know me think I am a good player. They don't ask to play me. They don't know that I am really a terrible player with no skills. I save a lot of money this way by not playing and losing.
Haha, me too. Awesome :wink:
Yes, and No.
A sneaky pete has points and a simple design in order to mimic a house cue. I would think it is easier, and much cheaper, to make what is called a "merry widow", than to full splice, short splice, or inlay points into the cue.
Merry widow: a cue fore arm that is solid, or just made of a single type of wood, with no embellishments such as points or inlays. Some merry widows may have uncomplicated inlaid designs on the butt end, decorative rings, and either a wrapped or unwrapped handle.
I'll take this one, just because:
Full Splice: A full splice cue is made of only two pieces of wood joined together, not involving the use of pins, dowels or other hardware, but by truly splicing two woods together with the most modern day high tech adhesives. The clear advantage of the full splice cue is its ability to provide not only far superior strength and clean aesthetic lines, but most importantly the pure fluid feel of the ultimate “working cue”. Usually due to cost of mass production, most companies use inlays rather than splice points. A pool cue with inlays can be simulated to look as if they are real splice points. One other splice point to mention is the short splice. It is not as cheap to produce as inlaid cues, but they are still cheaper to produce than the full splice. A short splice cue is based off of a normal three piece design. The forearm contains the short spliced pieces, the forearm is then attached to the handle, and finally the handle is attached to the butt. With this method the splice is only in the forearm and does not continue the length of the cue like a full splice cue.
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Good, explaination.
In addition, a few more points.
Short splice is by far the most popular method and is used by almost all cuemakers.
Full splice, is the odd ball as far as numbers of cues and makers. It commands a premium in prices.
IMO, short splice and full splice "playability" differences are zero. Purist will argue, but the "Masters" all did short splices. It is a bunch of BS.
It is kindof like the CNC points verses "sharp" points. Gina cues are thought of so highly but the outside "point" is rounded, and the remainder of the veneers come to sharp point. So I giggle when I hear what losers the CNC cuemakers are and then on the other side of our mouths we say how great Gina cues are. I own a Gina, and have played with them so its obvious I like them, but my point is in all things, take everything with a grain of salt.
Opinions are like a$$holes,
Ken
Rotarded
Thank you for your very informative reply. I'm sure I'm not the only one who learned something.
Measureman
I probably spill more than you drink, and I'm not proud of that.
Dave Nelson
Thank you for your very informative reply. I'm sure I'm not the only one who learned something.
Measureman
I probably spill more than you drink, and I'm not proud of that.
Dave Nelson
Dave Nelson
Please drink over a soup bowl and send your spillings to me.
Please drink over a soup bowl and send your spillings to me.
So how do you tell if a full splice cue ?
When purchasing new from a cue maker, or reputable dealer, they will advertise it as a "Full Splice" as they usually command more money. Although there are lower end, "mass produced" cues that are full spliced. These rarely, if ever, have veneers.
When buying used it becomes a bit more challenging:
Do your reseach. If the maker/brand does not make a full spliced cue, it should be your first clue.
If the cue is not wrapped, it is fairly obvious. If it is wrapped, you will need to remove the entire wrap to be sure. Short spliced points usually extend into the handle section far enough that just "pulling" the wrap back a few millimeters will not be far enough to be definitive.
One more question. Does full splice apply to butt and shaft?
Dave Nelson
Dave Nelson
Actually there are some makers who will do a spliced shaft, mostly snooker cues, but the normal splice is made in the Butt.
Snooker cue with spliced shaft:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=1987128&postcount=39