Project Tomahawk ferrule material.
- Thread starter j2pac
- Start date
I'd like to take a foot if you are willing to ship to Finland ?
Please PM me for the shipping costs and your PayPal shipped to
Name: Kimmo Hiltunen
Address: Kajaanintie 20
Postcode: 88270
City: Vuolijoki
Finland
I will pay by PayPal in advance, gift
Please PM me for the shipping costs and your PayPal shipped to
Name: Kimmo Hiltunen
Address: Kajaanintie 20
Postcode: 88270
City: Vuolijoki
Finland
I will pay by PayPal in advance, gift
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I'd like to take a foot if you are willing to ship to Finland ?
Please PM me for the shipping costs and your PayPal shipped to
Name: Kimmo Hiltunen
Address: Kajaanintie 20
Postcode: 88270
City: Vuolijoki
Finland
I will pay by PayPal in advance, gift
PM sent. The last 2.5 feet has been spoken for, pending payment. I will be on vacation after today, until June 12th. I will try to have more material ready to go, sometime shortly after my return.
A sincere thanks to everyone who has expressed interest.
Best regards.
Joe P.
I have another 40 feet in stock. I am home from vacation. The material will be ready to ship this week.
j2
Can you repost your current costs on them? I don't remember if it's gone up since the first post.
Incidentally, I just tried it out last night. The hit is nice and crisp. I know you said it was a little difficult to work with, but I honestly didn't notice it's any more difficult than something like delrin. Just have to watch that the long strings don't get wrapped up everywhere.
Thank you John. Maybe I shouldn't have posted that it was a little difficult to work with, as most, if not all of the chaps who have purchased it thus far, seem to concur with your sentiments. I just find that it is easier to be as upfront as you possibly can be, and eliminate any potential surprises to the consumer if at all humanly possible. In short, I try to be honest with people. :wink:
Pricing is as follows. I will sell one 6 inch piece for $12.00 shipped, or one foot for $20.00 shipped, within the lower 48 continental United States ONLY. These prices are out the door. I will accept Paypal, or U.S. Postal money order ONLY. If you pay via U.S. Postal money order, I will NOT ship your material until the money order shows, and is cashed.
To Hawaii, Alaska, or anywhere else abroad, the price will be $11.00 per 6 inch piece, or $19.00 per foot, PLUS actual shipping cost, NO exceptions, PAYPAL ONLY, and you must be reputable AZB'er, with outstanding I-Trader.
So far, pricing remains the same. I am toying with the idea of a slight price increase, but right now, I am trying to price people INto, not out of, what I truly believe is a class ferrule material.
I sincerely appreciate your continued interest.
All the best.
Joe P.
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PM sent, and thank you sincerely.
Plenty of material now ready to ship. Thanks again to all. I hope you have all been pleased with your product, and the service. If there are ANY issues at all, please do not hesitate to contact me, and I will do my best to resolve. One last request to all...In the future when paying via PayPal, please do NOT send the funds as a gift. For some reason, it negates any shipping discount that I receive by prepaying for shipping, and printing my own shipping labels. When I am able to prepay, and print, it makes shipment tracking and notification easier for both myself, and the customer.
Best regards.
j2
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Pricing update.
Evening Gents, and Gals.
As of September 02, 2016 the price for the Tomahawk material will increase to it's final resting place, barring a catastrophic price increase on my end. The new pricing structure will be as follows:
For anywhere in the lower 48 Continental U.S., the price will be $24.00 per foot, out the door. I will continue to pay for shipping, packaging, absorb PayPal fees, and even provide item insurance on my dime, at my discretion, on larger orders.
International prices, including Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, etc...will go to $22.00 per foot, plus actual shipping costs.
I do appreciate everyone who has purchased this material, and I have thoroughly enjoyed providing this class material to the billiards community. This material is very expensive on my end, and couple that with PayPal fees, shipping and handling, packaging, saw blades, etc, and my margins are very minimal. Getting rich off this, was never, and will never be of any consequence to me, and those who know me best, know that to be the truth of the matter. I do however have to make at least enough to cover my time and continued efforts, or I risk bodily injury from the Mrs.
In closing, I believe this final price set-point, is more than fair, for a material that I truly believe competes nicely with any premium ferrule material currently available. I realize a price increase is never a pleasant thing, and I will keep these future prices steady for as long as I continue to supply this material, or until such time, as the manufacturer tells me to spit into the wind.
I sincerely want to thank everyone who has shown interest in this material, and give a special nod of appreciation to a few cue-makers out there who were kind enough with their time and advice, to help me make the decision to bring this material to market.
Best regards to all.
Joe P.
The pricing structure for the Tomahawk Black will be the same as the above.
Evening Gents, and Gals.
As of September 02, 2016 the price for the Tomahawk material will increase to it's final resting place, barring a catastrophic price increase on my end. The new pricing structure will be as follows:
For anywhere in the lower 48 Continental U.S., the price will be $24.00 per foot, out the door. I will continue to pay for shipping, packaging, absorb PayPal fees, and even provide item insurance on my dime, at my discretion, on larger orders.
International prices, including Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, etc...will go to $22.00 per foot, plus actual shipping costs.
I do appreciate everyone who has purchased this material, and I have thoroughly enjoyed providing this class material to the billiards community. This material is very expensive on my end, and couple that with PayPal fees, shipping and handling, packaging, saw blades, etc, and my margins are very minimal. Getting rich off this, was never, and will never be of any consequence to me, and those who know me best, know that to be the truth of the matter. I do however have to make at least enough to cover my time and continued efforts, or I risk bodily injury from the Mrs.
In closing, I believe this final price set-point, is more than fair, for a material that I truly believe competes nicely with any premium ferrule material currently available. I realize a price increase is never a pleasant thing, and I will keep these future prices steady for as long as I continue to supply this material, or until such time, as the manufacturer tells me to spit into the wind.
I sincerely want to thank everyone who has shown interest in this material, and give a special nod of appreciation to a few cue-makers out there who were kind enough with their time and advice, to help me make the decision to bring this material to market.
Best regards to all.
Joe P.
The pricing structure for the Tomahawk Black will be the same as the above.
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I bought a foot of this material to try on different cues. Note that I am not an exprerienced cue maker and I cannot go too deep in comparision to other materials as I havent worked with many in cue making. Machining plastics is something that I am really familiar with though as I work as a CNC machinist and used to work in a place where I would machine all kinds of different plastics in to bushings, seals, jigs and everything one can imagine. So I know what to look for in a material when cutting it
Here are my thoughts on it
The Tomahawk material is very deep in colour. It feels very stiff in your hands and is a bit darker in colour in the rod form. It lightens quite a lot when polished to a shine.
It cuts exactly as in mr. Dzurickys videos, with ribbons when turning and it heats up easily with dull cutting bits. As with all plastic materials, sharp tools and patience are required when working on. With a decent lathe and sharp tools it is rather easy to cut and doesnt need any special thought. From a machinists point of view I approve the cutting properties :thumbup:
I changed the ferrules of a Players HXT shaft and later a Predator 314'2 shaft. For the HXT I had to make tiny grooves on the tenon as it's LD properties are achieved by using some sort of light and very fragile wood in the tenon.
Below are some pictures on work in progress along with the finished products.
Old ferrule cut off the HXT, note the amount of glue residue on the tenon
Tenon cleaned and shallow grooves cut for the glue
New Tomahawk ferrule ready to install
Left to dry overnight
Cut to size, polished and G2 hard installed
For the HXT shaft I used the same tip that was on it before the ferrule change to be able to do some real comparasion of just the ferrule. From the very first hit it was evident that the ferrule job was an improvement over the standard ferrule on it. The feel of the shaft is much better, it feels a lot like a Mezz with this new ferrule like my brother described it when he played a rack with it after the change. An other note is the energy transfer, the shaft really came to life after getting a new ferrule on it. I can use less force to get the same action as before. I really like this setup a lot, it just works well together. And the ferrule stays clean very well, any chalk can be wiped off without leaving any blue on it.
I wonder how much of this caused by the poor fitment of the standard ferrule... There was a lot of epoxy on the tenon as the original ferrule was oversized to the tenon
As I liked the material a lot in the HXT, I then proceeded to do the same on my 314'2.
The reason I changed this ferrule was the fact that the original ferrule turns blue from chalk all the time and the shaft had developed a numb feeling hit for whatever reason
I was confused a bit when I cut off the old ferrule on this shaft as I expected to find a tenon with 2 different diameters as is seen on kendocues repair article, but there was nothing such to be found on my shaft. And I went slowly, under 0.1mm at a time to be sure I didnt damage the tenon that is really thin.
Left to dry. Note the LePro tip there, I put it there to make sure I dont accidentally glue the shaft to my lathe :thumbup: It was easy to remove even though some epoxy from the glue relief hole stuck to it. I guess it did its job then.
Cut to size. Note the glue relief hole on the face. I drilled a 1mm hole on the ferrule to let the air out when glueing on the new ferrule. It filled up with epoxy so it doenst leave any defects on the face when the glue is set.
The finished shaft. The tip is a Zan Hybrid Max.
The difference in feel compared to what it used to be is substantial. A lot more feedback comes from the hit and it feels a bit harder when struck. Some similarities can be found to the hit of 1st gen 314's now, it has the same snap on hit now. I initually felt that I may need a grade softer tip with it but for now I have gotten used to it already. As the sound is pleasant with the Hybrid Max and it plays fantastically well, I am going to give it a few weeks now.
I must say that it was definitely worth the effort changing the ferrule on this shaft too. As predators are notorious for the lack of feel, I feel (no pun intended) that a harder ferrule brings some back to it. Deflection is something that I was worried about before starting this project but to my pleasant surprise there was no discriminable difference between the two materials in my opinion. If there is a difference there I feel that any deflection gained is made up by the nicer acoustic characterics and the lack of chalk absorption of the Tomahawk ferrule.
Thank you j2pac for supplying me with the material.
Here are my thoughts on it
The Tomahawk material is very deep in colour. It feels very stiff in your hands and is a bit darker in colour in the rod form. It lightens quite a lot when polished to a shine.
It cuts exactly as in mr. Dzurickys videos, with ribbons when turning and it heats up easily with dull cutting bits. As with all plastic materials, sharp tools and patience are required when working on. With a decent lathe and sharp tools it is rather easy to cut and doesnt need any special thought. From a machinists point of view I approve the cutting properties :thumbup:
I changed the ferrules of a Players HXT shaft and later a Predator 314'2 shaft. For the HXT I had to make tiny grooves on the tenon as it's LD properties are achieved by using some sort of light and very fragile wood in the tenon.
Below are some pictures on work in progress along with the finished products.
Old ferrule cut off the HXT, note the amount of glue residue on the tenon
Tenon cleaned and shallow grooves cut for the glue
New Tomahawk ferrule ready to install
Left to dry overnight
Cut to size, polished and G2 hard installed
For the HXT shaft I used the same tip that was on it before the ferrule change to be able to do some real comparasion of just the ferrule. From the very first hit it was evident that the ferrule job was an improvement over the standard ferrule on it. The feel of the shaft is much better, it feels a lot like a Mezz with this new ferrule like my brother described it when he played a rack with it after the change. An other note is the energy transfer, the shaft really came to life after getting a new ferrule on it. I can use less force to get the same action as before. I really like this setup a lot, it just works well together. And the ferrule stays clean very well, any chalk can be wiped off without leaving any blue on it.
I wonder how much of this caused by the poor fitment of the standard ferrule... There was a lot of epoxy on the tenon as the original ferrule was oversized to the tenon
As I liked the material a lot in the HXT, I then proceeded to do the same on my 314'2.
The reason I changed this ferrule was the fact that the original ferrule turns blue from chalk all the time and the shaft had developed a numb feeling hit for whatever reason
I was confused a bit when I cut off the old ferrule on this shaft as I expected to find a tenon with 2 different diameters as is seen on kendocues repair article, but there was nothing such to be found on my shaft. And I went slowly, under 0.1mm at a time to be sure I didnt damage the tenon that is really thin.
Left to dry. Note the LePro tip there, I put it there to make sure I dont accidentally glue the shaft to my lathe :thumbup: It was easy to remove even though some epoxy from the glue relief hole stuck to it. I guess it did its job then.
Cut to size. Note the glue relief hole on the face. I drilled a 1mm hole on the ferrule to let the air out when glueing on the new ferrule. It filled up with epoxy so it doenst leave any defects on the face when the glue is set.
The finished shaft. The tip is a Zan Hybrid Max.
The difference in feel compared to what it used to be is substantial. A lot more feedback comes from the hit and it feels a bit harder when struck. Some similarities can be found to the hit of 1st gen 314's now, it has the same snap on hit now. I initually felt that I may need a grade softer tip with it but for now I have gotten used to it already. As the sound is pleasant with the Hybrid Max and it plays fantastically well, I am going to give it a few weeks now.
I must say that it was definitely worth the effort changing the ferrule on this shaft too. As predators are notorious for the lack of feel, I feel (no pun intended) that a harder ferrule brings some back to it. Deflection is something that I was worried about before starting this project but to my pleasant surprise there was no discriminable difference between the two materials in my opinion. If there is a difference there I feel that any deflection gained is made up by the nicer acoustic characterics and the lack of chalk absorption of the Tomahawk ferrule.
Thank you j2pac for supplying me with the material.
I bought a foot of this material to try on different cues. Note that I am not an exprerienced cue maker and I cannot go too deep in comparision to other materials as I havent worked with many in cue making. Machining plastics is something that I am really familiar with though as I work as a CNC machinist and used to work in a place where I would machine all kinds of different plastics in to bushings, seals, jigs and everything one can imagine. So I know what to look for in a material when cutting it
Here are my thoughts on it
The Tomahawk material is very deep in colour. It feels very stiff in your hands and is a bit darker in colour in the rod form. It lightens quite a lot when polished to a shine.
It cuts exactly as in mr. Dzurickys videos, with ribbons when turning and it heats up easily with dull cutting bits. As with all plastic materials, sharp tools and patience are required when working on. With a decent lathe and sharp tools it is rather easy to cut and doesnt need any special thought. From a machinists point of view I approve the cutting properties :thumbup:
I changed the ferrules of a Players HXT shaft and later a Predator 314'2 shaft. For the HXT I had to make tiny grooves on the tenon as it's LD properties are achieved by using some sort of light and very fragile wood in the tenon.
Below are some pictures on work in progress along with the finished products.
Old ferrule cut off the HXT, note the amount of glue residue on the tenon
Tenon cleaned and shallow grooves cut for the glue
New Tomahawk ferrule ready to install
Left to dry overnight
Cut to size, polished and G2 hard installed
For the HXT shaft I used the same tip that was on it before the ferrule change to be able to do some real comparasion of just the ferrule. From the very first hit it was evident that the ferrule job was an improvement over the standard ferrule on it. The feel of the shaft is much better, it feels a lot like a Mezz with this new ferrule like my brother described it when he played a rack with it after the change. An other note is the energy transfer, the shaft really came to life after getting a new ferrule on it. I can use less force to get the same action as before. I really like this setup a lot, it just works well together. And the ferrule stays clean very well, any chalk can be wiped off without leaving any blue on it.
I wonder how much of this caused by the poor fitment of the standard ferrule... There was a lot of epoxy on the tenon as the original ferrule was oversized to the tenon
As I liked the material a lot in the HXT, I then proceeded to do the same on my 314'2.
The reason I changed this ferrule was the fact that the original ferrule turns blue from chalk all the time and the shaft had developed a numb feeling hit for whatever reason
I was confused a bit when I cut off the old ferrule on this shaft as I expected to find a tenon with 2 different diameters as is seen on kendocues repair article, but there was nothing such to be found on my shaft. And I went slowly, under 0.1mm at a time to be sure I didnt damage the tenon that is really thin.
Left to dry. Note the LePro tip there, I put it there to make sure I dont accidentally glue the shaft to my lathe :thumbup: It was easy to remove even though some epoxy from the glue relief hole stuck to it. I guess it did its job then.
Cut to size. Note the glue relief hole on the face. I drilled a 1mm hole on the ferrule to let the air out when glueing on the new ferrule. It filled up with epoxy so it doenst leave any defects on the face when the glue is set.
The finished shaft. The tip is a Zan Hybrid Max.
The difference in feel compared to what it used to be is substantial. A lot more feedback comes from the hit and it feels a bit harder when struck. Some similarities can be found to the hit of 1st gen 314's now, it has the same snap on hit now. I initually felt that I may need a grade softer tip with it but for now I have gotten used to it already. As the sound is pleasant with the Hybrid Max and it plays fantastically well, I am going to give it a few weeks now.
I must say that it was definitely worth the effort changing the ferrule on this shaft too. As predators are notorious for the lack of feel, I feel (no pun intended) that a harder ferrule brings some back to it. Deflection is something that I was worried about before starting this project but to my pleasant surprise there was no discriminable difference between the two materials in my opinion. If there is a difference there I feel that any deflection gained is made up by the nicer acoustic characterics and the lack of chalk absorption of the Tomahawk ferrule.
Thank you j2pac for supplying me with the material.
Thank you Kimmo. You were very easy to deal with, and your post/analysis is outstanding.
Best regards.
Joe P.
Approxmate stock
I have approximately 41.5 feet of stock, that is cut, and ready for shipment. I would also like to wish everyone a happy, and very safe 4th of July weekend. Enjoy your time with family and friends, and celebrate what's left of our independence.
Regards.
j2
I have approximately 41.5 feet of stock, that is cut, and ready for shipment. I would also like to wish everyone a happy, and very safe 4th of July weekend. Enjoy your time with family and friends, and celebrate what's left of our independence.
Regards.
j2