Removing Dents from Shafts

GrimmCustomCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Im sure this has been covered many times here but since Im new I figured Id bring it up again. Ive seen many methods to remove/raise dents in a shaft. Some methods just scare me and others I dont understand. Any one out there want to give me some advise on tried true methods that work possibly with details?

Richard
 

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
I use a steam gun on occasion if the dents are deeper.
Just little spritzes at a time, don't want to concentrate a steady stream of steam on the dent too long. But, very effective.

Others use a soldering iron over top of a piece of wet cotton or a sock.
I've not tried it that way.

Most of the time, I'll just use the bandage method as it does work quick on smaller dents, and big ones too. About the only time I will use the steamer is when the shaft has a gazillion dents and bandaging would be a major operation.

Laminated shafts, you use either the bandage method or fill them.
Never steam or heat. That be scary.

One of the guys mentioned that he covers the spout of a steam kettle with a piece of tin foil and pokes one hole in it. That would emit a small
stream and you can rotate the shaft over it.

Sometimes a dent won't pop and you might have to put a couple of small
punctures in the indentation itself. I got a couple of used dental picks for this. The ends are very tiny and sharp. I don't like to do it that way myself
but after you put a sealer on the shaft you're ok, as long as you don't use anything like a huge nail. If you don't have a dental pick, a very tiny sewing needle will work. Luckily, one doesn't have to resort to that method often. I would just as soon work at the dent longer
than poke a hole myself. I've only used that way a couple of times when all else seemed to fail. Mainly, I got the dental picks for other things like cleaning glue from a pin etc. If you can get one, they have a ton of other uses in the shop.
 
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GrimmCustomCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I use a steam gun on occasion if the dents are deeper.
Just little spritzes at a time, don't want to concentrate a steady stream of steam on the dent too long. But, very effective.

Others use a soldering iron over top of a piece of wet cotton or a sock.
I've not tried it that way.

Most of the time, I'll just use the bandage method as it does work quick on smaller dents.

Laminated shafts, you use either the bandage method or fill them.
Never steam or heat. That be scary.

One of the guys mentioned that he covers the spout of a steam kettle with a piece of tin foil and pokes one hole in it. That would emit a small
stream and you can rotate the shaft over it.

Sometimes a dent won't pop and you might have to put a couple of small
punctures in the indentation itself. I got a couple of used dental picks for this. The ends are very tiny and sharp. I don't like to do it that way myself
but after you put a sealer on the shaft you're ok, as long as you don't use anything like a huge nail. If you don't have a dental pick, a very tiny sewing needle will work. Luckily, one doesn't have to resort to that method often.

Awesome! Thank you! Now where does someone find a steam gun for this type of work?

Richard
 

Eric Wynne

Banned
When I was single digit age I learned from a wise man the spit and match method . It is the most precise technique I've ever known but experience is paramount . I have removed a dent that was caused by a mercedes door being slammed on an expensive shaft , when I was done , the owner couldn't tell where the ding was . Maple has memory , as long as the material isn't cut . Put a drop of water on the ding directly then strike a match and hold directly over the drop of water . Pay close attention and don't let the spit or water dry up , keep it moist . If you let it get dry the wood will burn , which you don't want to do. The bottom of the match doesn't get near as hot as the top so you can hold close . Keep repeating this process until you feel the ding slightly raised , then feather out with 400 & 600 grit wet or dry . I 've done this for nearly 45 years ... Ask Nick Varner if it works ...:cool::rolleyes:;)
 

GrimmCustomCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
When I was single digit age I learned from a wise man the spit and match method . It is the most precise technique I've ever known but experience is paramount . I have removed a dent that was caused by a mercedes door being slammed on an expensive shaft , when I was done , the owner couldn't tell where the ding was . Maple has memory , as long as the material isn't cut . Put a drop of water on the ding directly then strike a match and hold directly over the drop of water . Pay close attention and don't let the spit or water dry up , keep it moist . If you let it get dry the wood will burn , which you don't want to do. The bottom of the match doesn't get near as hot as the top so you can hold close . Keep repeating this process until you feel the ding slightly raised , then feather out with 400 & 600 grit wet or dry . I 've done this for nearly 45 years ... Ask Nick Varner if it works ...:cool::rolleyes:;)

Thanks... I have some old shafts Ill have to experiment with.
 

cubswin

Just call me Joe...
Silver Member
~not a cuemaker so take this how you take it~

I mostly use a coffee cup of boiling water and a q-tip. I just dip the q-tip in the water and then press it against the dent. Takes a few dips but works pretty well.

Bigger dent, I sometimes use a band-aid and a drop of water. Don't really like using that method, but it does work. Won't use the match/lighter method, because once after doing it about 100 times, I lightly burned (discolored) one of my shafts.

Flat tip solder iron and a wet rag works too, and is the way some of the cabinet makers I know remove dents if they don't want to sand anything.
 

GrimmCustomCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks everyone for the replies. I have many different methods to experiment with now. Hopefully I still have a good shaft when its all said and done LOL!


Richard
 
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