So, you kind of agree with the original post? This might be a first for me on AZB! I'm really excited as I respect yours and Dr. Dave's opinions. I've added to the OP by including how I drill on this shot. Thanks.
Down Rail Shots- Worst Advice Ever?
- Thread starter Bobkitty
- Start date
So, you kind of agree with the original post? This might be a first for me on AZB! I'm really excited as I respect yours and Dr. Dave's opinions. I've added to the OP by including how I drill on this shot. Thanks.
I think someone is pulling our collective leg.
But perhaps the best advice is what the Miz said: ignore the cushion and shoot the ball into the pocket.
Here's a shot that helps to understand how compressible the cushions are. The 1 and 9 are a chalk apart. The shot is to shoot directly at the 1 ball. The 9 goes straight in. Shoot firmly.
![CropperCapture[12].png](https://forums.azbilliards.com/data/attachments/338/338293-19e8b1f6d51d58889fedae5b9e4c5933.jpg "CropperCapture[12].png")
And yet, somehow, 13-year-old me very quickly figured out how to make the shot.
As for the CIT being a problem, it really isn't, except on very long shots. The CIT force pushing the ball into the rail is going to be very small, which means that the rebound is going to be extremely small.
This is incredibly poor for demonstrating this. You know there is more going on (the ball being squeezed down the rail). You know you would never make that shot if you hit the cueball into that spot if the one weren't there.
Too many variables not given. If object ball is frozen at a tight angle low inside rail first is the shot.
The 13-year-old arm learned how to make the shot in spite of a wrong concept. Many players learn things they don't consciously understand.
CIT is a problem and can cause a shot only two or three diamonds long to miss. This is easy to demonstrate, and has been demonstrated many times. Check out Koehler's "Science of Pocket Billiards" for lots of info if you don't believe what's on Dr. Dave's site.
I think you haven't tried the shot. Let us know how it goes. Including without the one ball.
For those who doubt the importance of throw, here's a good place to start:
throw tutorial page
And in relation to rail cut shots, see the rail cut shot resource page.
Enjoy,
Dave
Bingo! I was waiting for this. :thumbup2:
Thanks Bob. That reminds me of a great shot that many good players don't know. The cue ball and object ball are both on the rail inches apart and within a diamond of the pocket. You can actually shoot the cue ball into the rail (firmly again) directly behind the object ball and make it. This allows the cue ball to rebound off the object ball and roll up table and not be stuck on the rail. Maybe you can diagram that shot as well.
Something like this:
![CropperCapture[14].png](https://forums.azbilliards.com/data/attachments/338/338302-58affec58cf473dbe15441a77c8e5983.jpg "CropperCapture[14].png")
Mike Massey was practicing this shot at the recent US National 3_Cushion Championship except it was as a 3-cushion draw shot. On a pool table put a ball in the pocket on the left.
Its like the 1pckt shot Grady would make the ball on the bottom rail and draw 4 rails around the table to get behind a ball close to his opponents pocket amd shoot it into his. Great stroke practice.
Jason
Thanks Bob, I won't shoot it with the cue ball that far away from the object ball, mainly because I don't have the stroke for it, like you do. :thumbup:
Well, I don't think I'd try it on an Ernesto table, but 5" pockets will work.
The worst advice for these shots I've heard was to always go rail first.
Rail first hits are a solid option, but more often can get
over/under the object ball (for inexperienced players) and steer it away from the rail.
Not all cushions are the same firmness, and can compress deeper than intended. Until you become familiar with how a table rolls, just aim to make it.
Simply my humble opinion, but I'm preaching to the choir now. Lol.
Adding a touch of inside definitely puts some glue on the object ball, but you need a nice stroke, and be familiar in
aiming distances with inside english.
Something all players should practice anyway.
I just aim to cut the ball as if it were anywhere else.
"Like the rail isn't even there" was the phrasing taught to me as a kid. Works extremely well; for me anyway. Lol.
The simplified explanation cut my learning curve drastically,
as I recall, just by helping me absorb the aiming theory easily,
and visualize what needs to happen for consistent success with those long frozen cuts.
Rail first hits are a solid option, but more often can get
over/under the object ball (for inexperienced players) and steer it away from the rail.
Not all cushions are the same firmness, and can compress deeper than intended. Until you become familiar with how a table rolls, just aim to make it.
Simply my humble opinion, but I'm preaching to the choir now. Lol.
Adding a touch of inside definitely puts some glue on the object ball, but you need a nice stroke, and be familiar in
aiming distances with inside english.
Something all players should practice anyway.
I just aim to cut the ball as if it were anywhere else.
"Like the rail isn't even there" was the phrasing taught to me as a kid. Works extremely well; for me anyway. Lol.
The simplified explanation cut my learning curve drastically,
as I recall, just by helping me absorb the aiming theory easily,
and visualize what needs to happen for consistent success with those long frozen cuts.
Last edited:
You hit this firm with dead right english, and aim to scratch- is how that was explained to me...
The cue ball compresses the rail and will
catche the english. Sending it up-table.
Last edited: