What is the best pool cue joint/pin type?

BrokeHustler

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
what do you think plays the best uni-loc or 3/8x10 pin has anyone everhad a problem with a uni-loc joint?
any other suggestions? as what is the best pin , seems like most of the custom cue makers use a 3/8x10 i assume it is because of feel but i break with my player i just like the control better. what would be a better choice for a new cue stainless steel joint with a 3/8x10 pin or uni-loc?
 

MikeM

Pool Lover
Silver Member
I think a radial pin in an ivory joint plays best.

You'll probably get as many opinions as there are different configurations.

It all comes down to what feels comfortable to you...imo.
 

BrokeHustler

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I think a radial pin in an ivory joint plays best.

You'll probably get as many opinions as there are different configurations.

It all comes down to what feels comfortable to you...imo.

even if i like to break with my playing cue i am worried i would crack the ivory? plus i like to drill alot of my shots.

I am thinking phenolic but would like ivory just not sure if it would hold up with my playing style?
 

rugerfan

Got a Snakewood fetish...
Silver Member
I never developed a taste for unilock joints. I know a lot of guys like them but I think cue with a steel joint plays hard and kills the feedback of the hit.

Speaking of hit, Mike Lambros ultra joint has to be the most solid joint design I have ever seen with excellent feedback.

Your mileage may vary...
 

brokenarrowjbe

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Radial joint, best feedback for me. You should try a few different ones to see what you like. Lot of people like the VQR, Joss, meucci, dufferin joints.
 

manwon

"WARLOCK 1"
Silver Member
what do you think plays the best uni-loc or 3/8x10 pin has anyone everhad a problem with a uni-loc joint?
any other suggestions? as what is the best pin , seems like most of the custom cue makers use a 3/8x10 i assume it is because of feel but i break with my player i just like the control better. what would be a better choice for a new cue stainless steel joint with a 3/8x10 pin or uni-loc?



Based upon the repairs I have done over the last few years, I would stick with the 3/8-10 pin, in far to many cases I have seen Uni-loc joint wear and fail over time.

When I say fail, I am talking about coming lose while playing or breaking, it seems that these joints are effected by wear.

JIMO
 

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
My preference is a 3/8thx10 pin with phenolic collars.
I also have a couple of cues with Radial pins so would concur with that
preference too.
 

plshrk22

A Holes Billiards
Silver Member
This is a very broad question.. It is really subjective to what you like and that will come with trying different cues.

As far as uniloc goes, give Paul Drexler a call and tell him that Uniloc sucks :)

You really dont see any custom cues with Unilocs. There is a Searing Jump Break with a Uniloc for sale and Im SURE Dennis would not use a joint pin that he did not have 100% confidence in.

Myself I prefer a 3/8-10 Wood to wood phenolic.
 

Mickey Qualls

You study the watch......
Silver Member
Based upon the repairs I have done over the last few years, I would stick with the 3/8-10 pin, in far to many cases I have seen Uni-loc joint wear and fail over time.

When I say fail, I am talking about coming lose while playing or breaking, it seems that these joints are effected by wear.

JIMO

I have to agree here. One of my league teammates has a very nice production cue with a Uniloc joint, and it seems like he has to tighten it at least once every game.

I have a 3/8x10 on my custom. I was hooked on that pin type when I played with a production McDermott, I like the feel and feedback from a wood-to-wood joint.

And I can't ever recall having to re-tighten the McDermott or the custom once I put either one of them together.

Wood-to-wood for me. Just my 2 cents........
 

manwon

"WARLOCK 1"
Silver Member
This is a very broad question.. It is really subjective to what you like and that will come with trying different cues.

As far as uniloc goes, give Paul Drexler a call and tell him that Uniloc sucks :)

You really dont see any custom cues with Unilocs. There is a Searing Jump Break with a Uniloc for sale and Im SURE Dennis would not use a joint pin that he did not have 100% confidence in.

Myself I prefer a 3/8-10 Wood to wood phenolic.


Ok!!!!!!!!:smile:
 

plshrk22

A Holes Billiards
Silver Member
I called Paul one night and I heard the whole history about uniloc pins! I had no clue he was a big part in the invention of unilocs.
 

gunzby

My light saber is LD
Silver Member
I say no to uni-loc because it will come loose during play and as some have said before it does wear out which will make it come loose more often.

Anything else is up in the air. For me I use a radial pin in all my playing cues, but so far as a snug fit that will never come loose I will say that a 3/8x10 or 3/8x11 is king.

In all honesty you probably can't tell the difference between pins. I can tell a difference between tips, ferrules, shafts, shaft tapers and questionably joint materials. The only thing in a pin you might be able to tell a difference in is if it has a metal insert in it as compared to wood to wood.

The biggest difference between pins isn't the thread, but the material used. Brass, stainless steel, titanium and G10 all have different weights which effects the balance of the cue.
 

manwon

"WARLOCK 1"
Silver Member
I say no to uni-loc because it will come loose during play and as some have said before it does wear out which will make it come loose more often.

Anything else is up in the air. For me I use a radial pin in all my playing cues, but so far as a snug fit that will never come loose I will say that a 3/8x10 or 3/8x11 is king.

In all honesty you probably can't tell the difference between pins. I can tell a difference between tips, ferrules, shafts, shaft tapers and questionably joint materials. The only thing in a pin you might be able to tell a difference in is if it has a metal insert in it as compared to wood to wood.

The biggest difference between pins isn't the thread, but the material used. Brass, stainless steel, titanium and G10 all have different weights which effects the balance of the cue.


Tap Tap Tap, I think that this is true for almost all of us.

Great honest post.
 
Last edited:

measureman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
My Lucasi is uni lock. I have never had a problem with it coming loose or locking up. I do clean the threads once in a while with a Q tip and some alcohol. This is necessary maintenance for these type of joints.
I also have a 3/8x10 pin cue and while they play a little differently the only difference I see is that the 3/8x10 takes a lot longer to screw together then the uni lock. And at my age I don't have a lot of screwing time left.
 

SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
3/8-10 or radial pin into a Lambros Ultra Joint. Hard to choose which pin I like best coming into an Ultra Joint. Almost like trying to decide which Barbie twin you like the most.
 

bstroud

Deceased
As the inventor of both the Radial and the Uniloc, I have played extensively with both.

I had a Uniloc cue for 15 years with no problems. They must be installed correctly. Every cue maker does not do that.

When it cam time to make myself a new cue a few months ago I put in a Radial.
I like the way it plays very much and just about anyone can install one properly.

Bill Stroud
 

pwd72s

recreational banger
Silver Member
As the inventor of both the Radial and the Uniloc, I have played extensively with both.

I had a Uniloc cue for 15 years with no problems. They must be installed correctly. Every cue maker does not do that.

When it cam time to make myself a new cue a few months ago I put in a Radial.
I like the way it plays very much and just about anyone can install one properly.

Bill Stroud

I've learned to listen to superior knowledge...thanks for the post.:D
 

manwon

"WARLOCK 1"
Silver Member
My Lucasi is uni lock. I have never had a problem with it coming loose or locking up. I do clean the threads once in a while with a Q tip and some alcohol. This is necessary maintenance for these type of joints.
I also have a 3/8x10 pin cue and while they play a little differently the only difference I see is that the 3/8x10 takes a lot longer to screw together then the uni lock. And at my age I don't have a lot of screwing time left.


I think the problem with Uni-Lock Joints has a little to with how they are used. Like you said above you have never had a problem and I believe ever word of that because I also know people who have been using them for years and nothing happens. But, honestly I have seen many over the last few years that have problems with coming loose during play. I don't know why some are OK and others go bad, but I suspect that it is because of the way the cue is used and treated. I also suspect that breaking with that type of joint is a major part of the problem, I will have to look at this further and start asking questions when these cues are brought in for repairs.

Take care and have a great day.
 

rugerfan

Got a Snakewood fetish...
Silver Member
I believe there are several different variations of the uni-lock joint today, due to patent issues. All the ones I have tried were serious lacking in hit feedback, compared to what I'm used to. Granted, there may have been advancements in the design over the years but my early impressions (when the uni lock first hit the cue market back in the day) tended to make me pass on cues with that particular joint.

I tend to believe we are all creatures of habit. If we exclusively played 40 years with a 5/16x14 piloted SS jointed cue then tried a 3/8x10 wood to wood joint, the hit would feel foreign to us. And the same the other way around. I guess it really boils down to what your personally accustomed to.
 
Top