New Aiming System Method (long)

jondrums

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ok, so I lied a little in the title - this is an AUGMENTATION to the very popular "quarter ball aiming system". Basically the same system as SAM, and the billiards aim trainer system (http://www.billiardaimtrainer.com/). For more information about these systems, do a quick archives search or read up here:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=53774&highlight=aiming+template
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=44853&highlight=aiming+template

So I have always had a little trouble estimating the cut angle to start with, so that when I thought it was supposed to be a half ball hit, I might be a bit off. So I present here, my method for determining the hit angle. Once you get calibrated, you could easily and quickly determine the angle to a few degrees precision!

A disclaimer: I MADE THIS SYSTEM UP MYSELF, using lots of external input from books, other people, and forum advise. There are probably lots of other people who have done something just like it, so I claim no property to it. I'd rather just share it freely, since I thought of it myself.

To recap the quarter ball aiming system: a 15 degree cut is called a 3/4 ball hit, a 30 degree cut is called a 1/2 ball hit, and a 45 degree cut is called a 1/4 ball hit.

Using my cue and my hand as a distance measuring tool, I used some basic trigonometry to come up with a very simple method to find those three angles. First some background info:

My father taught me very early a simple way to estimate length using my hand. All you have to do is hold your pinky and thumb stretched out as far as you can, and measure that span with a ruler. From then on, you can use your "hand span" as a unit of measure. My hand span is 9.25". Your hand size may vary. Yes, I also have big feet:) (reference: http://www.vendian.org/mncharity/dir3/bodyruler/)

My pool cue is 58" long. The joint is 29" from the tip. The wrap begins 42" from the tip.

To use this system, you must first find your personal hand span distance, and using that then find your magic number. To find your magic number, multiply your hand span by 3.86. My hand span is 9.25, and my magic number is 35.7. Then you must locate a point on your cue that is exactly your magic number in inches from the tip of the cue. For me, it is a little more than halfway from the joint to the wrap (35.7 inches from the tip).

For me, a picture is a 1000 words, so take a look at the sketch of me measuring a 30 degree cut (1/2 ball hit). Then realize that one hand span = 15 degrees (3/4ball hit). three hand spans = 45 degrees (1/4ball hit). I have found this system to be VERY accurate, and fairly simple to execute on the fly.

What do you all think? I will follow this post with a few examples of where I find this system to be particularly useful.

Jon
Aiming_system.jpg
 
Last edited:
OK, now for my promised post on why I find aiming systems really useful.

FIRST: I don't use this aiming system for pocketing balls very often at all!!! I actually just look at the shot, and know how to hit it, and then go ahead and do it. Or if I'm feeling particularly off that day, I use something like the ghost ball system.

WHAT THE HELL IS IT FOR THEN???

I've found the quarter ball system really useful for the following three situations:
Tricky combination shots
Balls very close to the pocket
Safety play, where this is no clear spot to aim an OB at
Very long cut shots

These are situations where I find it very tricky to aim because I do not have a solid reference to aim at (like a pocket).

I'm sure a few of you are going to jump on me saying that aiming systems are useless, but I don't really care, because I know that they have a time and place in my game!

Jon
 
All aiming systems (that work) are the same, in the end, as any other aiming system...i.e. if they work, they all result in identical CB/OB contact.

But there is a WAY easier method that I can't tell you...because then I'd have to kill you! (-:

BUT...here's a hint. WHATEVER aiming system you use...notice that the cue tip...if it was a laser gun...points at EXACTLY the same spot on the OB...regardless of what system you use to achieve the correct aim.

That's all I can say...except the obvious disclaimer that all aiming systems must be adjusted to take squirt/throw into account and those factors vary with the pace of the shot.

But the great players know EXACTLY what the "baseline" aim is and then adjust accordingly.
 
jondrums said:
Ok, so I lied a little in the title - this is an AUGMENTATION to the very popular "quarter ball aiming system". Basically the same system as SAM, and the billiards aim trainer system (http://www.billiardaimtrainer.com/). For more information about these systems, do a quick archives search or read up here:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=53774&highlight=aiming+template
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=44853&highlight=aiming+template

So I have always had a little trouble estimating the cut angle to start with, so that when I thought it was supposed to be a half ball hit, I might be a bit off. So I present here, my method for determining the hit angle. Once you get calibrated, you could easily and quickly determine the angle to a few degrees precision!

A disclaimer: I MADE THIS SYSTEM UP MYSELF, using lots of external input from books, other people, and forum advise. There are probably lots of other people who have done something just like it, so I claim no property to it. I'd rather just share it freely, since I thought of it myself.

To recap the quarter ball aiming system: a 15 degree cut is called a 3/4 ball hit, a 30 degree cut is called a 1/2 ball hit, and a 45 degree cut is called a 1/4 ball hit.

Using my cue and my hand as a distance measuring tool, I used some basic trigonometry to come up with a very simple method to find those three angles. First some background info:

My father taught me very early a simple way to estimate length using my hand. All you have to do is hold your pinky and thumb stretched out as far as you can, and measure that span with a ruler. From then on, you can use your "hand span" as a unit of measure. My hand span is 9.25". Your hand size may vary. Yes, I also have big feet:) (reference: http://www.vendian.org/mncharity/dir3/bodyruler/)

My pool cue is 58" long. The joint is 29" from the tip. The wrap begins 42" from the tip.

To use this system, you must first find your personal hand span distance, and using that then find your magic number. To find your magic number, multiply your hand span by 3.86. My hand span is 9.25, and my magic number is 35.7. Then you must locate a point on your cue that is exactly your magic number in inches from the tip of the cue. For me, it is very close to halfway from the joint to the wrap (35.7 inches from the tip).

For me, a picture is a 1000 words, so take a look at the sketch of me measuring a 30 degree cut (1/2 ball hit). Then realize that one hand span = 15 degrees (3/4ball hit). three hand spans = 45 degrees (1/4ball hit). I have found this system to be VERY accurate, and fairly simple to execute on the fly.

What do you all think? I will follow this post with a few examples of where I find this system to be particularly useful.

Jon
View attachment 53612

If you know the spot on the object ball that you need to hit to pocket the ball...what's the point of the hand measurements ???
 
I have to agree with you. There are time when an aiming system gives more predictable results. Such as when the object ball is hanging in the corner pocket. The rebound path is very predictable using a 1/4, 1/2 or 3/4-bll hit. If I'm shooting to a pocket that is partly blocked, I use point-to-point aiming. However, for most of my shots, I just know when it's right.
 
jondrums said:
...
What do you all think? I will follow this post with a few examples of where I find this system to be particularly useful. ...
The angles you quote for fractional ball shots are not quite correct. The are all wrong if you include throw.

There is already someone who has implemented this system (or one close to it) who plays at Shoreline. I'll point him out to you if he happens to be there during league.

As I understand your system, it assumes that tan(30) = 2*tan(15) and tan(45) = 3*tan(15). Neither of those is true. On the other hand, if you learn (intuitively) the angles for those tangents, there is no good reason to learn the actual degrees associated with the cuts.
 
Bigjohn said:
If you know the spot on the object ball that you need to hit to pocket the ball...what's the point of the hand measurements ???

I think it's a double-check. He's basically saying that you can BE SURE that the shot is a half-ball hit IF it's two hand widths (or a quarter if it's one, etc).

I'm not into aiming systems, but I do think this is a good idea. It can't hurt, and it is clever. Reminds me of how I "calibrate" my 1 rail kicks with english...
 
seymore15074 said:
I think it's a double-check. He's basically saying that you can BE SURE that the shot is a half-ball hit IF it's two hand widths (or a quarter if it's one, etc).

I'm not into aiming systems, but I do think this is a good idea. It can't hurt, and it is clever. Reminds me of how I "calibrate" my 1 rail kicks with english...

Sounds like someone is trying shortcut hours of practice to me. There is no substitute for setting these shots up and practicing them over and over till you get it down. Oh... and don't try this hand measure technique during league or tournament play. good luck!
 
Hey Bob, thanks for the reply!

I have met Ted, and his system is very similar (he explained it to me), but I have simplified it somewhat. I haven't seen him in a while but have been meaning to show him this.

Regarding the actual angles: you're right, the exact quarter ball angles are actually 14.48deg, 30.01deg, and 48.59deg.

If you're curious the angles that my system results in measuring:
one hand span: 14.88deg (2*arcsin(9.25/2/35.7))
two hand spans: 30.03deg
three hand spans: 45.74deg

So yes there is a slight difference (my system is a CLOSE approximation), with the biggest difference coming in the three hand span spot, but it is really just meant as a rule of thumb, and gets you very close to the right aiming spot! Of course one would need to work on things to compensate for throw either by modifying the aim a tiny bit or by using a little outside english.

Jon
ps. I know I turn you all off with trigonometry, but I'm just attaching this for Bob to see the math behind it all...
aiming_system_math.jpg
 
Bigjohn said:
Sounds like someone is trying shortcut hours of practice to me. There is no substitute for setting these shots up and practicing them over and over till you get it down. Oh... and don't try this hand measure technique during league or tournament play. good luck!

No Offense intended BigJohn, but I tend to prefer to have a starting reference point so that when I practice things I converge on a solution quicker. I personally think that THERE IS a shortcut to hours of practice - perhaps with a system to get mostly there, it saves some amount of hours of practice? Everyone's personal milage may differ.

Also, what do you mean about not trying this in a league or tournament play? Is there some kind of rule against this kind of thing?

Jon
 
jondrums said:
No Offense intended BigJohn, but I tend to prefer to have a starting reference point so that when I practice things I converge on a solution quicker. I personally think that THERE IS a shortcut to hours of practice - perhaps with a system to get mostly there, it saves some amount of hours of practice? Everyone's personal milage may differ.

Also, what do you mean about not trying this in a league or tournament play? Is there some kind of rule against this kind of thing?

Jon
But I don't think you addressed his most pointed criticism. What is the purpose of the hand measurement once you've pivoted the cue and already know the correct direction for the cue/cueball?

But if this does serve a function, wouldn't you want add a correction for the thickness of the butt at the magic point?

Maybe an example or two might help.

Jim
 
jondrums said:
No Offense intended BigJohn, but I tend to prefer to have a starting reference point so that when I practice things I converge on a solution quicker. I personally think that THERE IS a shortcut to hours of practice - perhaps with a system to get mostly there, it saves some amount of hours of practice? Everyone's personal milage may differ.

Also, what do you mean about not trying this in a league or tournament play? Is there some kind of rule against this kind of thing?

Jon

I think there is a rule against using trigonometry:D In most circumstances you wouldn't even be able to use this hand measurement and cue system due to other balls on the table and I don't think your competitors would stand for this routine on every cut shot during a match anyway regardless of any rule. But... If this works for you in your practice routine...by all means... Go for it!... I'm from the old school of pounding balls.
 
Bigjohn said:
I don't think your competitors would stand for this routine on every cut shot during a match anyway regardless of any rule.

OH absolutely! this would be a painfully slow system to implement for every shot. I only really want something like this for 1 of 20 shots or so. Those tricky ones that I otherwise have trouble with (like I described in my second post)
Jon
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Is this helpful when the aim is between two of the major ball fraction alignments (say, 3/8 ball)?

It totally works like that. Shots are rarely exactly one of these increments, but getting the "flavor" of the shot is more the idea. If its halfway in between 1 and 2 hand spans, then I just adjust my aim halfway between 3/4 and 1/2ball hit.
Jon
 
The system I've perfected involves a Hersey bar, and a cell phone. I call my buddy and explain the shot to him and while he tell's how to shoot the shot I eat the Hersey bar.
 
Hey pat there is no shot on a pool table that is 3/8 to the center of the pocket. Just call Hal houle or talk to Tom Simpson All I have to say ,is the grail aiming method is the shit. Sorry for poor spelling missed that class I was working on my banks.
 
Not a bad system. Just one little problem with it. Unfortunately you'd be committing a foul every time you set your cue down.

3.42 DEVICES
Players are not allowed to use a ball, the triangle or any other width-measuring device to see if the cue ball or an object ball would travel through a gap, etc. Only the cue stick may be used as an aid to judge gaps or as an aid to aligning a shot., so long as the cue is held by the hand. To do so otherwise is a foul and unsportsmanlike conduct. (Also see Rules 1.3, 1.4 and 2.15)
 
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