slim butt cues

M

mrinsatiable

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
How do cue makers reduce the butt cue for a slim butt?

Do you sand it down to the desired measurements? if so then it's done by the eye?

For some reason that doesn't seem precise enough

Do you used a cutting machine? while it's on the lathe?

Reason being..i want one of my cues to have a cylinder shape after the forearm, not a taper. I like the feel of a consistant shape. Wanted to know if this can be done precisely.
 
mrinsatiable said:
How do cue makers reduce the butt cue for a slim butt?

Do you sand it down to the desired measurements? if so then it's done by the eye?

For some reason that doesn't seem precise enough

Do you used a cutting machine? while it's on the lathe?

Reason being..i want one of my cues to have a cylinder shape after the forearm, not a taper. I like the feel of a consistant shape. Wanted to know if this can be done precisely.
Click to expand...

Hand work can be just as precise as machine work. It depends on the worker doing the work.

Most cuemakers would use no taper for the area from the forearm to the butt cap which is real simple. They would only taper the forearm which is pretty simple.

I personally would not build such a cue because I would not want anyone to see such a cue with my name on it. It would look awful in my opinion and depending on the wood could be quite heavy.

Good Luck in your quest,
 
likewise. i will not go below 1.250. i did for a customer and he never saw the cue thats how bad it came out. it was like 1.200
 
mrinsatiable said:
How do cue makers reduce the butt cue for a slim butt?

Do you sand it down to the desired measurements? if so then it's done by the eye?

For some reason that doesn't seem precise enough

Do you used a cutting machine? while it's on the lathe?

Reason being..i want one of my cues to have a cylinder shape after the forearm, not a taper. I like the feel of a consistant shape. Wanted to know if this can be done precisely.
Click to expand...
It's done mostly with familiarity with your taper machine.
Say someone wants a stiff-hitting cue but wants a slim handle.
Just make the forearm conical and then make the handle a little straighter ( it cannot be straight, it has to have some taper ).
 
dave sutton said:
likewise. i will not go below 1.250. i did for a customer and he never saw the cue thats how bad it came out. it was like 1.200
Click to expand...


I go to 1.200 all the time with no problems.
 
JBCustomCues said:
I go to 1.200 all the time with no problems.
Click to expand...

Likewise, My standard size is around 1.205 - 1.210 before sanding and finish application.

Dick
 
mrinsatiable said:
I like the feel of a consistant shape.
Wanted to know if this can be done precisely.
Click to expand...

Do you or someone you know have a cue with a straight (untapered) butt?

Any cue maker can make you such a cue if he choses to do so.
Why don't you call a few and get some quotes.
 
JoeyInCali said:
It'd look ugly and it would roll funny when rolled on the table.
Click to expand...

Would it roll any different than anything else that doesn't have a constant taper? There will be some light under it, but as long as the cue is straight, the gap would be consistent, right? As for the ugly, I guess that's possible, but I don't think it would be any worse than one that gets fat at the forearm, and starts tapering back down towards the buttcap. I'm curious, because I plan on playing with just this type of taper. I want the grip hand to have a constant diameter from the butt cap to the forearm, it just seems weird to me to have it bigger at one end of the wrap than at the other. I am very interested in hearing the cons of using this, though.
 
I've built a few that tapered straight back from the forearm. One was well under 1.2. The guy that ordered it eventually decided it was too thin, and ordered another one that was just a bit thicker, and he loves it.
It is very easy to do, and there is really no con to it. The cue will roll just fine, and if built straight, will roll straight. Balance could be an issue, but some foresight in that area, and it's no problem.
If you want something with a straight taper at a larger diameter, it could possibly look a bit odd having a relatively steep taper on the forearm.
 
I had a fairly good player a couple of years ago give me a Mcdermott cue that he wanted the wrap area to be a consistent thickness instead of being tapered. I re-cut the wrap area almost to the same size as the A-joint and then re tapered the collar back to the original size. It looked just like a clarinet. The front of the inlays were wiped out but when he picked it up he thought it looked really good. He came into the shop just before Christmas this year with a Joss that he wanted the same thing done to as he said he loved the way the McDermott felt and played.

Dick
 
I prefer the wrap or handle area of a cue being straight. It does look funny but feels nicer.
 
how much does changing the butt sleeve from 1.30" to 1.20" change the playability of the cue?

I have a james white cue that has sw style ring work. Am i in danger or going too deep before the ring work blows out?

Trying to do two things in one attempt. Change the balance point more forward and slim down the butt sleeve.
 
My son has been building some cues from .850" at the joint to 1.050" at the butt end. He is internally reinforcing them to make them hit stiffer than you would expect from a cue that thin. He calls them Hightower/Shuriken.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top