pad

It's a good idea for ivory ferrules because it somewhat dampens the impact while more evenly distributing the impact over the entire ferrule face. It's not so big of a deal until the tip gets thinned down enough to cause damage, especially on powerful spin shots. In this case it can mean the difference of a cracked ivory ferrule or not. Basically it's a cheap insurance policy.

I have seen pads on non-ivory ferrules, too. I'm not sure why. I guess they look cool. But I personally can understand no purpose for them on any ferrule except for brittle materials like ivory.
 
qbilder said:
It's a good idea for ivory ferrules because it somewhat dampens the impact while more evenly distributing the impact over the entire ferrule face. It's not so big of a deal until the tip gets thinned down enough to cause damage, especially on powerful spin shots. In this case it can mean the difference of a cracked ivory ferrule or not. Basically it's a cheap insurance policy.

I have seen pads on non-ivory ferrules, too. I'm not sure why. I guess they look cool. But I personally can understand no purpose for them on any ferrule except for brittle materials like ivory.


I would think they are necessry as well on ferulless shafts too, correct?
 
fullsplicefiend said:
I would think they are necessry as well on ferulless shafts too, correct?

Yes, I would assume so. That's another situation altogether, though. I tried a few non-ferrule shafts. My first experiment was in 2000, and I played with the shaft for a few months. The tip glued directly to wood, no protection. It held great, no cracks or damage to the wood. However, I only used it for a few months, not several years. I would not trust it. I'd feel much safer having not just a fiber pad, but a thicker phenolic pad or very short ferrule. I think a 1/16" long ferrule, basically a ring, would still offer plenty protection while still allowing the tip to glue directly to wood.
 
A regular fiber pad protects the ferrule from splitting. Most ferrules don't need it. Ivory is one that does. As far as changing the hit goes it does not change it much if using a standard fiber pad. But if you used a thin poly urethane pad for instance it would change the hit. I experimented with poly urethane pads and found they gave more cue ball spin, but were really weak on the draw shot. So I felt it played better without it. I did not try every hardness of urethane, so the right hardness might give just enough extra juice on the cue ball without becoming too spongey, but who knows.
 
dave sutton said:
i put pads on non ivory all the time. i like the little extra feel it gives.


"the little extra feel it gives"? maybe the little extra feel it takes away, but I think what you are meaning to say is just you like the hit they produce with the ferrule/tip you use.

Just wondering

not saying they take away alot, but definitly some
 
not saying they take away alot, but definitly some


couldn't agree more.i have always hated the pad hit compared to natural.i used to play with ivory years ago and never used pads and never had one crack,but i always replaced the tip when it got low.

i think the pad is love/hate.some people like the hit and some don't.for me the more wood the better.i like big through tenons and thin tips and short ferrules without a pad,but to each his own.been considering doing a ferruless shafts to try them out after reading about Sheldon's,but haven't gotten around to it yet.
 
i think they give a nice little bounce.

lets put it this was that 1 layer of pad id deff harder then 1 layer on a moori or everest. i do mostly ivory ferrules. the pad allows me to take the new tip down a little lower and the tip is IMO more ready to go.a pad also allows the tip to be lower for longer and most players like that time where the tip is nice and worn down.

reguardless i think mason is right. love it or leave it. i love it. i will turn away a tip replacement with ivory ferrules that DO NOT want pads.
 
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