Gold Crown 1 rehab: Im new to this forum 1st post.thank you in advance for your patience and help.I bought 8 Gc1s from a pool room where they were for 40+ years. they have only been recovered less than ten times. I have read most of the 85 pages concerning early gcs. I have a woodworking and cabinet background and would like to undertake fixin up these tables: liner extensions, re rubber, new pockets etc. After reading most of the info I'm thoroughly confused about the rail rubber and have a few questions.
What i have discovered so far is that
six of the tables have the figure eight rail bolt plate and two have the hidden nuts, although they all have adjustable leg levelers and only one has the acrylic nameplate the rest are metal nameplates, and these all fall into the category of gc1 I think? I dont have the rail rubber off yet to determine the angle of the liner but;
1) if im careful when i remove the old rubber and dont damage the liner, doesn't the process just involve adding the liner extensions and putting back on new Brunswick Super Speed?
2)Is the cutting of the liner neccesary even if I put back on BSSPEED?
3)Does it make sense to put Artemis, or Diamond rubber on?
4) What about if i have acces to new old stock of Brunswick rubber ? does it deteriorate in the box?
As Im asking you guys these questions im realizing i need to do some more work on my end, i.e. find out the liner angle of all the rails sets, find out the profile of the new old stock brunswick rubber and compare it to the new brunswick ss. ,artemis, diamond,etc.
Brunswick K55 rubber= Artemis Intercontinental No.66 ? Am I understanding this corectly? Also that brunswick superspeed comes in two profiles K55 and K66 the k55 being the bigger of the two?or is the k55 now gone and no longer available, and newer brunswicks just use the lesser k66 ?by newer i mean newer than approx 1970 -1975
Is it wrong to try to cut off the existing rail rubber with a high quality cabinet table saw? If I adjust the correct (high tooth count) blade to the correct angle I should be able to keep making passes through the saw till I have a fresh clean glue surface to work from? 48 rails each pass, and should all come out the same? My other way of thinking would be a straightedge and saw setup from the top with a jig made up to run off of the featherstrip channel keeping the cut square to the channel. Like the festool saw where its locked into the straightedge, accurate+ - 64th inch. As you can tell I need your help sorry for the long post, Ill do some homework and be back with more questions..
but it was a change noted to the GC2's. The plastic Brunswick name plate was on the early GC1's, then were switched to the metal name plates before the GC2's came out, but once again it was noted to be a change on the GC2's. The figure eight rail bolt plate was only on the GC1's rails, the floating nut plate was first used on the GC2's rails and was inserted depth wise and not width wise until the GC3's came out. Pocket castings on the GC1's were cast very thick, on the GC2's they were cast much thinner.