need some help/advice on a Plain Jane huebler repair

Worth fixing?????

Here's my $.02 worth.

#1 Can't say how old it is, but, if he likes the cue, it's worth fixing. However, if he expects it to play the same after that kind of damage, I wouldn't guarantee it

#2 The collar looks to be the same type material that Meucci used in their older cues. Don't know what it is, but I'd guess that MPI would be a comparable replacement material.

#3 I assume you're talking about the shaft here. Depending how deep the crack in the wood is, the shaft my be a gonner! You could try putting on a new collar (black phenolic would be OK, but I'd use the same MPI as the butt collar), bore into the shaft after replacing the collar(in hope of removing the cracked section) and put in a plug. Tap the shaft at this point to see if it sounds like the crack went farther in. If you get a rattly sound (like it's cracked deeper) sh*tcan it. If not, install a new insert and you're done.

For the work involved, I'd guess around $75 - $100 bucks. More (or quit altogether) if you you find greater damage once you cut off the old collar(s). More too (obviously) if you figure on a full refinish rather than just a little super glue to blend the repair to the existing finish.

Don't you just love the cue abusers?
"I really like my cue & the way it hits", until the next time he dogs a shot and starts wailing on his cue.

Your repair options are limited. The fact that it's a 'Made in USA' Huebler says to me that it's probably worth putting a little repair-time into but not much.

Unless the insert is cracked, which I doubt because it's nylon, or come unbonded, don't touch it. Don't touch the pin either; no need to. Just replace the joint collar and shaft ring with linen based mtrl. What's on there now is implex (PVC) and it's obvious how well that held-up.
If you want to maintain the color scheme, black phenolic on the shaft and an Aegis or LBM joint collar (white). The linen mtrl. encasing the wood will prevent it from splitting further. Face & finish the joint as you normally would and you're done.

I'd be looking for $40/50 for the repair as I've described.

Dave38 said:

Last nite a fellow league player brought in a cue from a friend and asked if I could fix it. As the pics show, it looks like someone got upset and wacked the joint. even the shaft collar is broke in 2 places and the wood is cracked on one side. The wood on the butt side looks to be intact, and the pin is straight. My questions are as follows,
#1) The customer wants to know before fixing it, Approx. how old is this Huebler? and is it worth getting repaired? I personnally think so, but it's not my call.
#2) what is the collar on the butt side made of? It looks to be a MP type of material.
#3) would it be advisable to repair this with a black phenolic collar, load up the crack with a thin epoxy and maybe a new insert?
I want to maintain the originalness of the cue, as the customer really likes the way it plays, so any input as to the original materials and such would be greatly appreciated. Also, if any advice as to what to charge for something like this, as I haven't had to do this extensive of a repair all at once on the same cue before, and don't want to overcharge, etc.
All help appreciated,
Thanks,
Dave
View attachment 77728

Click to expand...

Dave the cue was made between 1993 and 2005 when Paul closed shop for good. I have never liked the joint material used in these cues myself, in the 1970's Paul used a material called Implex, but in the 1990's he switch to Plastic on his production cues.

By the pictures included, it appears that not only the joint collar is cracked, but the wood that surounds the pin is also cracked which is common with these cues. If I were going to fix the cue, I would remove the cues pin, remove the broken collar, and cut the old tenon off at the forearm. Then I would core the front of the forearm at least an 1 1/2 inchs deep and install dowel and turn it down retap the dowel and install a new pin and collar on the dowel. This way the pin will be secure, and by going 1 1/2 inch deep the pin will act as additional security for the dowel because the bottom of the pin will be secured through the dowel into the forearm.

It appears the shaft is OK except for the shaft collar, which will need to be replaced. This way the joint and pin will be secure and stronger than before with the Epoxy, dowel, New Pin, and Linen Phenolic collar.

I would charge around $65 for the repair, but I would suggest to the customer that for an additonal $100 I would completelt refinsh the cue and rewrap it.

Just my opinion, but I think with the damage present the pin could easily fail if the pins seat is not replaced.

Take Care.

Prathers

You might want to try Prathers. Their Grice joint material is an off-white color that may work. If they don't have any in stock, I've got some and could send you a piece.

Dave,
I have some white linen I can send you to do the collar. It's pure white. Send me your address.

To clear-up any confusion regarding the pin, double-nut it. Put 2 nuts on it & tighten them together. Now take a 1/2" wrench and see if you can move the pin either way or if it moves at all. If it doesn't move, just do the repair I told you. There's nothing wrong with the pin.
If the pin does move then you have to R & R it. Don't guess at it, test at it.

1. The cue is worth fixing.
2. That particular collar is a plastic, similar to Meucci. If you use phenolic or any other material, you change the playability of the cue.
3. To fix it correctly, both the joint and shaft collar will need to be replaced. Filling the crack and clamping it together is not fixing the problem. The glue from the new collar will fix the crack in the shaft wood. If you do it right, there should be no need to shoot finish on either the butt or shaft. You can polish those plastics to a shine.

Let me know if you need anything.

id let the customer know it wont be cheap. looks like a pretty extensive job. the cue may only be $200-250 in vaue. is he willing to spend that much to repair it? i also wouldnt use the same plastic used originally. it cracker for a reason. id go with ageus and phenolic maybe iv4 for the joint

Its good that he is willing to wait and give you the time needed to fix it the right way. Let me know if you need anything.

also for the joint i like to do a solid 1.5'' piece of black phen .625 ID then sleeve the 1'' joint material over it at.750 ID adds a bit if stregnth IMO. thats how i do my thin walled SS joints

Grice

Dave38 said:

.....
Bill, I must ask, what the h*ll is Grice? It sounds like something my mom made me eat when I was a kid:grin: ....
Dave

Click to expand...

It's a thermoset plastic that has an off-white color. I heard about it here on AZ in a post by Bryan Mordt.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=15770&postcount=17