Importance of points in the forearm

spliced

spliced

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi, this post is for all cuemakers, please read and respond! Thanks:thumbup:

As I understand it, points in a cue serve 4 purposes:

1. They can stiffen the forearm
2. They can add or subtract weight in the forearm, altering weight + balance
3. They help prevent warpage
4. Aesthetics

I would appreciate if the forum's cuemakers would post their answers to these questions. Just quote my post and fill in your responses. Thank you!!!

What is the structural importance of points in the forearm of a pool cue?

What are the best woods to use for points? Why?

Do you prefer deep-knifed points or cnc inlayed? Why?

Can points ever weaken the forearm? How?

What nose woods require points to make them stiff enough?

Are there woods that can be used as a forearm that are already stiff enough without needing points?


Thanks to all who participate. I hope to release a series of posts like this in hopes to initiate informative discussion about the whys and why nots of cue construction. No fights, flames, or wars here. Just tell us why you think how you think!
 
Fiend, I don't think you're asking enough questions.:eek: Looks like a cuemaker landmine!

Martin







fullsplicefiend said:
Hi, this post is for all cuemakers, please read and respond! Thanks:thumbup:

As I understand it, points in a cue serve 4 purposes:

1. They can stiffen the forearm
2. They can add or subtract weight in the forearm, altering weight + balance
3. They help prevent warpage
4. Aesthetics

I would appreciate if the forum's cuemakers would post their answers to these questions. Just quote my post and fill in your responses. Thank you!!!

What is the structural importance of points in the forearm of a pool cue?

What are the best woods to use for points? Why?

Do you prefer deep-knifed points or cnc inlayed? Why?

Can points ever weaken the forearm? How?

What nose woods require points to make them stiff enough?

Are there woods that can be used as a forearm that are already stiff enough without needing points?


Thanks to all who participate. I hope to release a series of posts like this in hopes to initiate informative discussion about the whys and why nots of cue construction. No fights, flames, or wars here. Just tell us why you think how you think!
Click to expand...
 
With today's methods, and the advent of coring, points are 99% decoration.
There are plenty of woods that will hit great with no points or coring. Unstable woods are much better off with a core than with points. Or a core, and points.
I prefer cnc points and inlays, because there are a LOT more possibilities, and more material choices.
Traditional V points definitely have their place though, and done well, are very desirable.
 
Sheldon said:
With today's methods, and the advent of coring, points are 99% decoration.
There are plenty of woods that will hit great with no points or coring. Unstable woods are much better off with a core than with points. Or a core, and points.
I prefer cnc points and inlays, because there are a LOT more possibilities, and more material choices.
Traditional V points definitely have their place though, and done well, are very desirable.
Click to expand...

So Sheldon negotiates the landmine without a scratch...

One point to mention, there was a time, when spliced points, esp
in a house cue, dramatically improved stability. But with kiln dryed
woods, stability is not nearl so much of an issue anymore.

Dale
 
pdcue said:
So Sheldon negotiates the landmine without a scratch...
Click to expand...
You've got to be quick, and defuse them! Looks like it worked....
pdcue said:
One point to mention, there was a time, when spliced points, esp in a house cue, dramatically improved stability. But with kiln dryed
woods, stability is not nearl so much of an issue anymore.
Click to expand...
Indeed! :thumbup:
 
Would splicing a softer wood like birdseye maple into a harder wood like ebony make the forearm weaker?
 
fullsplicefiend said:
Would splicing a softer wood like birdseye maple into a harder wood like ebony make the forearm weaker?
Click to expand...
I would guess that any strength lost by using the slightly softer wood might be offset by the fact that the piece is spliced and glued. (Assuming proper methods and tolerances)
 
fullsplicefiend said:
Would splicing a softer wood like birdseye maple into a harder wood like ebony make the forearm weaker?
Click to expand...

That would depend on which of the woods was the forearm. Doing a fullsplice makes the softwood harder and the harder wood softer. What I am saying is that the properties of each lend themself to the other piece.

Using Ebony and Bird's Eye Maple are usually strong enough on their own to be fine in any cue application.

Good Cuemaking,
 
Murray Tucker said:
But CNC points and inlays are round. If you used a panto they would be nice and sharp........:D
Click to expand...
* Sheldon hits Murray over the head with a Big hammer ====[] Bang!!! ====[]
 
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