I found a new glue for tips - any one tried this ?

Newton said:
What I'm afraid of Dave, is that the one drop of glue is
not able to put the whole accelorator alive when pushed together...
If not there might be areas under the tip which
only contains accel. and no glue causing those funny
noises we know-even if the drop of glue is strong
enough to keep the tip in place.
I would contact the player tomorrow and hear
how todays tourney whent.
The two OB2 shafts has not been tested yet by
customer nr2..

Kent
Click to expand...

I'm not really understanding by what you mean by areas under the tip containing only accelerator?

If you put a good even coat of the glue on the tip and ferrule there should be no issues like that, not to mention that the accelerator is usually a spray mist so how would it displace the glue itself?

I have not and don't ever plan on using the accelerator for doing tips anyways because of my process. When I'm ready to glue the tip I squeeze the CA onto the prepared ferrule and the prepped tip and I place them together and slide the back of the tip on the face of the ferrule in little circles to make sure I get an even smooth coverage with no air or pockets in the tip/ferrule connection point. If I used the accelerator the glue would harden too fast to give me some play time to move the tip around like i mentioned to get that even and solid connection.

-Grey Ghost-
 
greyghost said:
I'm not really understanding by what you mean by areas under the tip containing only accelerator?

If you put a good even coat of the glue on the tip and ferrule there should be no issues like that, not to mention that the accelerator is usually a spray mist so how would it displace the glue itself?
.
.
.

-Grey Ghost-
Click to expand...

Ghost,

Here is the problem : The tips area is prox 1cm^2. The primer should be put on
evenly on both surfaces and then let it dry for 20-30sek.
Now, the glue should be applied - and no - you should not smear the whole
surface with glue and then press the surfaces together.
According to the instruction sheet - one drop should be enough to cover
1cm^2 - and this drop should not be smeared following the instructions...

I do smear the glue over when I used the flex version and this I also do when
the 454 was used.

The Mezz customer which had the shaft with the tip installed with the previous
linked glue has reported "it sounds like it would fall of at any time"...

So I guess this is a no go then and I'll stick to the flex version or drive for a while
and get the 454.

K
 
Update

Thought I could give a feedback since I knocked this post up here :

The original linked glue :
Not good. Might be that my glue portion of the tubes was old or something - but the customer which I installed the Kamui tip to - came back.. New tip - new glue...

There was a industrial exhibition in my local community and I had a long and thorough discussion about my (possible our) needs - specially after my last crappy experiences.

Long story short . share with all my friends up here :
454 is cool - glues good BUT;
The rubber reinforced gel is better for our tips AND if you dip the tip in a damped (whet) towel before you attach the tip - it would stick like anything you ever tried....

I found this procedure to work very well:

1:Face the ferrule
2:Sand the ferrule with RPMs < 100 Rpm
3:Clean ferrule with white spirit/pain thiner
4:Sand tip
5:CLEAN TIP ! Paper-towel used...
6: Apply glue @ FERRULE...
7: Dip tip glue side in paper towel - whet paper towel that is.
Immediately attach the tip to the ferrule. Do NOT adjust for "close to edge'' alinement. If you are not sure to be within ''parameters'' - leave it. In case you're cool - hold the tip to the surface of the ferrule with the tip having a complete 360 coverage WITHOUT movement of the tip.
Applying the humidity (moist/water) to the tip reduce reaction time and cures the glue quicker. I.e for those in a dry are (Texas?) - this would help.
8: Normal cutting procedure...

For me the new part was the fact that dipping the tip in a paper towel (well applying humidity/water to the porous surface) would work as a catalyst.

Have not lost a tip after words. 454 might be the best still - but I have found a new solution I'm sticking to (since the 454 is a fair drive away).
Just a short update..

K
 
Newton said:
Thought I could give a feedback since I knocked this post up here :

The original linked glue :
Not good. Might be that my glue portion of the tubes was old or something - but the customer which I installed the Kamui tip to - came back.. New tip - new glue...

There was a industrial exhibition in my local community and I had a long and thorough discussion about my (possible our) needs - specially after my last crappy experiences.

Long story short . share with all my friends up here :
454 is cool - glues good BUT;
The rubber reinforced gel is better for our tips AND if you dip the tip in a damped (whet) towel before you attach the tip - it would stick like anything you ever tried....

I found this procedure to work very well:

1:Face the ferrule
2:Sand the ferrule with RPMs < 100 Rpm
3:Clean ferrule with white spirit/pain thiner
4:Sand tip
5:CLEAN TIP ! Paper-towel used...
6: Apply glue @ FERRULE...
7: Dip tip glue side in paper towel - whet paper towel that is.
Immediately attach the tip to the ferrule. Do NOT adjust for "close to edge'' alinement. If you are not sure to be within ''parameters'' - leave it. In case you're cool - hold the tip to the surface of the ferrule with the tip having a complete 360 coverage WITHOUT movement of the tip.
Applying the humidity (moist/water) to the tip reduce reaction time and cures the glue quicker. I.e for those in a dry are (Texas?) - this would help.
8: Normal cutting procedure...

For me the new part was the fact that dipping the tip in a paper towel (well applying humidity/water to the porous surface) would work as a catalyst.

Have not lost a tip after words. 454 might be the best still - but I have found a new solution I'm sticking to (since the 454 is a fair drive away).
Just a short update..

K
Click to expand...

Newton, Your procedure is exactly like mine except I've never cleaned the ferrule with any type of solvent. I guess I should but so far I've never found it necessary.

Dick
 
Newton, the primer you mention with a felt tip applicator is accelerator (Nitromethane), and I have used it a bunch, but I'd put it on one surface only, CA on the other surface, and hope I get it aligned correctly the first time, as it pretty much sets a gel CA as fast or faster than a thin, fast CA.
On tips, I see no real advantage to putting an accelerator onto a mating surface when using a gel CA - just wait a little while for it to cure while holding it under pressure. The bond will be stronger, in my experience.
 
Loctite Ultra Gel for about 2 years now. I used the Loctite Gel before that. I tried the 454 a long time ago and it worked fine but as others have said, I couldn't use it fast enough. A bottle of the Ultra Gel lasts about a month so it is always fresh.
 
I use gorilla ca gel $5.00 @ walmartand insta-set accelerator from my local rc car/plane hobby shop. I square the ferrule and rough it a little with some 100 grit. Then i sand the back of the tip with 80 grit. Apply the glue to the ferrule and smear it around with the tip. Center the tip and apply a little pressure and spray the glue line with the accelerator. Wait 1 to 1 1/2 minutes and the tip is ready to work.
 
pmcues

You gentlemen all use loctite glue. And I had nothing but trouble with it.I did just what cuemakers told me to do and I had some bad luck maybe? Ive only been making cues for 4 years and I found for my best result was duro quick gel. as long as i prep them right Ive yet to have a tip come off even the new kamuiis ??
 
gel

I have always used the cheap shit from the dollar store. I get super glue gel. turn off the ferrule clean and sand the tip. Never had a tip pop off except on a shaft with a phenolic ferrule. On these I use 5 minute epoxy and I never had another problem.

Kim
 
PMcues said:
You gentlemen all use loctite glue. And I had nothing but trouble with it.I did just what cuemakers told me to do and I had some bad luck maybe? Ive only been making cues for 4 years and I found for my best result was duro quick gel. as long as i prep them right Ive yet to have a tip come off even the new kamuiis ??
Click to expand...

don't know how you had trouble with locktite 454 or the gel......if you were doing what we told you to?

None of us have any issues so I would have to say its not bad luck its your process.

How are your preping diff with locktite than what you are doing with duro?
 
greyghost said:
don't know how you had trouble with locktite 454 or the gel......if you were doing what we told you to?

None of us have any issues so I would have to say its not bad luck its your process.

How are your preping diff with locktite than what you are doing with duro?
Click to expand...

I thought the same thing when I first read the comment. When something works great for all others but not yourself then you have to ask "What am I doing differently?".

Dick
 
Newton said:
Thought I could give a feedback since I knocked this post up here :

The original linked glue :
Not good. Might be that my glue portion of the tubes was old or something - but the customer which I installed the Kamui tip to - came back.. New tip - new glue...

There was a industrial exhibition in my local community and I had a long and thorough discussion about my (possible our) needs - specially after my last crappy experiences.

Long story short . share with all my friends up here :
454 is cool - glues good BUT;
The rubber reinforced gel is better for our tips AND if you dip the tip in a damped (whet) towel before you attach the tip - it would stick like anything you ever tried....

I found this procedure to work very well:

1:Face the ferrule
2:Sand the ferrule with RPMs < 100 Rpm
3:Clean ferrule with white spirit/pain thiner
4:Sand tip
5:CLEAN TIP ! Paper-towel used...
6: Apply glue @ FERRULE...
7: Dip tip glue side in paper towel - whet paper towel that is.
Immediately attach the tip to the ferrule. Do NOT adjust for "close to edge'' alinement. If you are not sure to be within ''parameters'' - leave it. In case you're cool - hold the tip to the surface of the ferrule with the tip having a complete 360 coverage WITHOUT movement of the tip.
Applying the humidity (moist/water) to the tip reduce reaction time and cures the glue quicker. I.e for those in a dry are (Texas?) - this would help.
8: Normal cutting procedure...

For me the new part was the fact that dipping the tip in a paper towel (well applying humidity/water to the porous surface) would work as a catalyst.

Have not lost a tip after words. 454 might be the best still - but I have found a new solution I'm sticking to (since the 454 is a fair drive away).
Just a short update..

K
Click to expand...

How do you place the tip on the ferrule and not move it to make sure it is centered on the ferrule?
 
bearsafety said:
How do you place the tip on the ferrule and not move it to make sure it is centered on the ferrule?
Click to expand...

It would take you some tips and then you would get the experience to fixate it
good enough. Note that there is no crisis if you have a ''lip'' hanging on one side
as long as you have the ferrule covered.
If you feel uncomfortable with this - machine a tip ''holder'' which you could put
in your tailstock.
Just make the hole tapered and large enough to fixate the tip in center and then
add a axle with the correct MT to your tailstock.

Hope it helped.
K
 
Newton said:
After loosing 4 Kamui tips I installed - due to use of $hity glue I had
a look in some of my local suppliers catalogs. I came over this one which was in
the catalog with hardly any information to it at all. Searching at Loctites web gave
some good vibes :dance:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/4/2/sg_plstc/overview/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-System.htm

Any one tried it which makes this old news ?

I normally use 434 but the last couple of times I have bought something which is
just beside my work - easier to get - and was suppose to be a good CA Gel - but
that has for sure been experienced to NOT be the case.


Kent
Click to expand...


To be honest i just use the cheap 99 cent store super glue and i never have a problem with it. i glue the ferrule then the tip and let both dry. then rough up both surfaces and then glue them together. with the glue sticking to itself i never have a problem.

give it a try
 
Tip glue

I think I read somewhere where ca is just ca regardless who makes it. Don't know for sure though. I have used many different brands and all worked well as long as the tip and ferrule are flat and clean.

The only problem I had was a tube of glue from a dollar store which was old. I tested it on other objects and nothing would glue so I knew the glue was just bad.

NOt because of the brand but because everything has an expiration date. I usually use whats in a container that appllies the best and easiest to get the top off of the next time. Right now its loctite super glue gel. I believe outdated glue and poorly prepared tips/ferrule are more of a problem than brands of ca.:D
 
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