PRO ONE DVD: Answering Questions

hey dave was there anything else stan wanted or was thinking about to put on the dvd but didnt for what ever reason? im just curious is all.
 
champ2107 said:
hey dave was there anything else stan wanted or was thinking about to put on the dvd but didnt for what ever reason? im just curious is all.
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If I were to teach CTE/PRO ONE to a student today, the information would be the same as contained in my DVD. I am very satisfied that all of the necessary information needed to learn Basic CTE and PRO ONE is included in the video.

Stan
 
stan shuffett said:
If I were to teach CTE/PRO ONE to a student today, the information would be the same as contained in my DVD. I am very satisfied that all of the necessary information needed to learn Basic CTE and PRO ONE is included in the video.

Stan
Click to expand...

I agree! i have posted this a couple times already that the dvd is complete and shows you everything you need to know about shooting the system, but i was curious anyway. You should have included "I shoot Pro1" stickers for my cue case stan in your dvd case ;)
 
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Would just like to publicly say thank you to Stan!! For one of the best instructional video's out there! Thanks as well for taking my call!!
 
Tap, tap,tap!

:thumbup:
pablocruz said:
Would just like to publicly say thank you to Stan!! For one of the best instructional video's out there! Thanks as well for taking my call!!
Click to expand...

Pablo-

Your post is appreciated. Civility, grattitude and positive comments are not posted often enough around here.

Thanks
 
After viewing Stan's DVD several times, and after reading many of the posts in recent CTE and Pro-One threads, I've done my best to try to summarize this version of CTE on my CTE resource page (see version 4). I've also tried to use general terminology (e.g., inside/outside instead of A/B/C and left/right) to make the summary as concise as possible. I've also listed names and cut-angle ranges for the different lines of aim, in the spirit of previous versions of CTE. Again, this is my interpretation of the method. Other people might see it differently. Anyway, here it is:

While standing, sight through the center of the CB and the outside edge of the OB (i.e., sight along the CTE line). Then, based on the amount of cut needed, shift your sight line, bring your cue into alignment as you drop straight into your stance, and pivot as described below:

  • For a "straight-in" shot (very little or no cut), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the inside 1/4* of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "very thick" cut (more than about 3/4-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the inside 1/4* of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "medium thick" cut (about 1/2-to-3/4-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the center of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "medium" cut (about 1/2-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the center of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "medium thin" cut (about 1/2-to-1/4 ball hit), sight along the inside 1/8 of the CB and the outside 1/8 of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "very thin" cut (less than 1/4-ball hit), sight along the inside 1/8 of the CB and the outside 1/8 of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.

inside: on the side of the ball toward the cut (i.e., the left side for a cut to the left, the right side for a cut to the right)
outside: on the side of the ball away from the cut (i.e., the right side for a cut to the left, the left side for a cut to the right)

CTE-fraction-diagram.jpg

Note - On the CTE resource page, the information above is summarized even more concisely in tabulated form.

You develop a feel for the alignment and pivot required for a given cut based on lots of practice and experience.

*: If the CB-OB distance is less than about 1', sight to "inside 1/8" instead of "inside 1/4."

You also need to adjust your bridge length based on CB-OB distance: about 8-9" when several feet apart, about 7-8" when about 2' apart, about 6-7" when about 1' apart, about 5-6" when less than about 1' apart, and very short when the balls a very close.​

The DVD doesn't provide much guidance on how to decide which alignment and pivot to use for a given shot; although, all of the examples are useful to help figure out how the amount of cut influences the decision.

I'll be curious to hear whether or everybody thinks this is an accurate and fair description of the method. Again, this is my interpretation and opinion, based on what I have learned so far.

Concerning "Pro One," to me it seems less like an "aiming system" and more like a "level of ability" that one can develop through lots of practice with CTE, where bridge hand placement and accurate center-ball alignment come naturally without a mechanical fixed-bridge pivot.

As I point out on my CTE resource page, I think Stan's version is potential better than the other quoted versions because it has more lines of aim and because the pivot amount is small (which limits bridge length and CB-OB distance effects).

I hope the summaries on the resource page help people better understand and compare the different versions of CTE.

Thanks,
Dave
 
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Dr. Dave:

Do you think an edge to "target" (a/b/c) alignment provides the same solution based on different distances?

Dave
 
dr_dave said:
After viewing Stan's DVD several times, and after reading many of the posts in recent CTE and Pro-One threads, I've done my best to try to summarize this version of CTE on my CTE resource page (see version 4). I've also tried to use general terminology (e.g., inside/outside instead of A/B/C and left/right) to make the summary as concise as possible. I've also listed names and cut-angle ranges for the different lines of aim, in the spirit of previous versions of CTE. Again, this is my interpretation of the method. Other people might see it differently. Anyway, here it is:

While standing, sight through the center of the CB and the outside edge of the OB (i.e., sight along the CTE line). Then, based on the amount of cut needed, shift your sight line, bring your cue into alignment as you drop straight into your stance, and pivot as described below:

  • For a "straight-in" shot (very little or no cut), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the inside 1/4* of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "very thick" cut (more than about 3/4-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the inside 1/4* of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "medium thick" cut (about 1/2-to-3/4-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the center of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "medium" cut (about 1/2-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the center of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "medium thin" cut (about 1/2-to-1/4 ball hit), sight along the inside 1/8 of the CB and the outside 1/8 of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "very thin" cut (less than 1/4-ball hit), sight along the inside 1/8 of the CB and the outside 1/8 of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
Note - On the CTE resource page, the information above is summarized even more concisely in tabulated form.

You develop a feel for the alignment and pivot required for a given cut based on lots of practice and experience.

*: If the CB-OB distance is less than about 1', sight to "inside 1/8" instead of "inside 1/4."

You also need to adjust your bridge length based on CB-OB distance: about 10-12" when several feet apart, about 8-9" when about 2' apart, about 6-7" when about 1' apart, about 5-6" when less than about 1' apart, and very short when the balls a very close.​

The DVD doesn't provide much guidance on how to decide which alignment and pivot to use for a given shot; although, all of the examples are useful to help figure out how the amount of cut influences the decision.

I'll be curious to hear whether or everybody thinks this is an accurate and fair description of the method. Again, this is my interpretation and opinion, based on what I have learned so far.

Concerning "Pro One," to me it seems less like an "aiming system" and more like a "level of ability" that one can develop through lots of practice with CTE, where bridge hand placement and accurate center-ball alignment come naturally without a mechanical fixed-bridge pivot.

As I point out on my CTE resource page, I think Stan's version is potential better than the other quoted versions because it has more lines of aim and because the pivot amount is small (which limits bridge length and CB-OB distance effects).

I hope the summaries on the resource page help people better understand and compare the different versions of CTE.

Thanks,
Dave
Click to expand...

Can you please explain what an "inside edge of a cueball is? Never heard of such a thing!!
 
SpiderWebComm said:
Do you think an edge to "target" (a/b/c) alignment provides the same solution based on different distances?
Click to expand...
If by solution, you mean cut angle, then the answer is no. The cut angle can change with the distance between the balls with a fixed alignment and fixed-bridge pivot of fixed bridge length. In other, words, if you use the same alignment and don't change the "effective pivot length," the cut angle will change with distance between the balls. FYI, I have a good illustration of this on my CTE resource page.

Regards,
Dave
 
pablocruz said:
Can you please explain what an "inside edge of a cueball is? Never heard of such a thing!!
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The "inside" edge of the CB is the edge on the side toward the cut. If you are cutting the OB to the left, the inner edge of the CB is the left edge. If you are cutting the OB to the right, the inner edge of the CB is the right edge. This is the same convention used to describe English ("outside" vs. "inside").

I hope that helps,
Dave
 
dr_dave said:
If by solution, you mean cut angle, then the answer is no. The cut angle can change with the distance between the balls with a fixed alignment and fixed-bridge pivot of fixed bridge length. In other, words, if you use the same alignment and don't change the "effective pivot length," the cut angle will change with distance between the balls. FYI, I have a good illustration of this on my CTE resource page.

Regards,
Dave
Click to expand...
I think you misunderstood me (or I wasn't clear). If you have three shots (each edge to A alignments) at three different distances---- Are their relationships the same (overlap)?

Dave
 
dr_dave said:
The "inside" edge of the CB is the edge on the side toward the cut. If you are cutting the OB to the left, the inner edge of the CB is the left edge. If you are cutting the OB to the right, the inner edge of the CB is the right edge. This is the same convention used to describe English ("outside" vs. "inside").

I hope that helps,
Dave
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deleted ...........
 
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SpiderWebComm said:
If you have three shots (each edge to A alignments) at three different distances---- Are their relationships the same (overlap)?
Click to expand...
The amount of overlap (i.e., pre-pivot ball-hit fraction) is the same, but the sighting-line angle changes with CB-OB distances.

Sorry if I misunderstood your first question,
Dave
 
he has just changed the wording, for his cte reference page so people who have not seen the dvd may understand what he has written, pablocruz.
 
dr_dave said:
The amount of overlap (i.e., pre-pivot ball-hit fraction) is the same, but the sighting-line angle changes with CB-OB distances.

Sorry if I misunderstood your first question,
Dave
Click to expand...

Can you explain the sighting line angle? I believe that the pivot point distance off the CTEL is a variable based on shot distance for the identical overlap with a 1/2 tip offset. Is that what you mean?
 
pablocruz said:
dr_dave said:
The "inside" edge of the CB is the edge on the side toward the cut. If you are cutting the OB to the left, the inner edge of the CB is the left edge. If you are cutting the OB to the right, the inner edge of the CB is the right edge. This is the same convention used to describe English ("outside" vs. "inside").
Click to expand...
Then you've concocked something totally different than CTE/Pro-One!!
Click to expand...
I don't think so. With a cut to the left, sighting through the left edge of the CB and point "A" on the OB is the same as sighting through the inside edge of the CB and the inside 1/4 of the OB. With a cut to the right, sighting through the right edge of the CB and point "C" on the OB is the same as sighting through the inside edge of the CB and the inside 1/4 of the OB. My one sentence covers both cases.

I hope that makes sense,
Dave
 
dr_dave said:
After viewing Stan's DVD several times, and after reading many of the posts in recent CTE and Pro-One threads, I've done my best to try to summarize this version of CTE on my CTE resource page (see version 4). I've also tried to use general terminology (e.g., inside/outside instead of A/B/C and left/right) to make the summary as concise as possible. I've also listed names and cut-angle ranges for the different lines of aim, in the spirit of previous versions of CTE. Again, this is my interpretation of the method. Other people might see it differently. Anyway, here it is:

While standing, sight through the center of the CB and the outside edge of the OB (i.e., sight along the CTE line). Then, based on the amount of cut needed, shift your sight line, bring your cue into alignment as you drop straight into your stance, and pivot as described below:

  • For a "straight-in" shot (very little or no cut), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the inside 1/4* of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "very thick" cut (more than about 3/4-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the inside 1/4* of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "medium thick" cut (about 1/2-to-3/4-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the center of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "medium" cut (about 1/2-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the center of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "medium thin" cut (about 1/2-to-1/4 ball hit), sight along the inside 1/8 of the CB and the outside 1/8 of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
  • For a "very thin" cut (less than 1/4-ball hit), sight along the inside 1/8 of the CB and the outside 1/8 of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
Note - On the CTE resource page, the information above is summarized even more concisely in tabulated form.

You develop a feel for the alignment and pivot required for a given cut based on lots of practice and experience.

*: If the CB-OB distance is less than about 1', sight to "inside 1/8" instead of "inside 1/4."

You also need to adjust your bridge length based on CB-OB distance: about 10-12" when several feet apart, about 8-9" when about 2' apart, about 6-7" when about 1' apart, about 5-6" when less than about 1' apart, and very short when the balls a very close.​

The DVD doesn't provide much guidance on how to decide which alignment and pivot to use for a given shot; although, all of the examples are useful to help figure out how the amount of cut influences the decision.

I'll be curious to hear whether or everybody thinks this is an accurate and fair description of the method. Again, this is my interpretation and opinion, based on what I have learned so far.

Concerning "Pro One," to me it seems less like an "aiming system" and more like a "level of ability" that one can develop through lots of practice with CTE, where bridge hand placement and accurate center-ball alignment come naturally without a mechanical fixed-bridge pivot.

As I point out on my CTE resource page, I think Stan's version is potential better than the other quoted versions because it has more lines of aim and because the pivot amount is small (which limits bridge length and CB-OB distance effects).

I hope the summaries on the resource page help people better understand and compare the different versions of CTE.

Thanks,
Dave
Click to expand...

And they think golfers have alot going on in order to perform the exact shot...lol
 
If you are half a tip off of center cueball regardless of inside or outside you are already at true vertical center of the cueball so if you were to pivot you would be a tip off center either way!!
 
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