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nobcitypool
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10-11-2012, 09:14 AM

Wouldn't the correct length of a pool cue for a given player be that player's bridge length, plus the length between their bridge hand and back hand plus whatever amount you want extending behind the back hand? For that vast majority of players, a 58" or 59" cue will be adequate. For someone with longer arms, it could be longer. While I believe having the back forearm at a 90 degree angle to the cue when at address to the CB, obviously, not everyone does this, which would clearly affect the appropriate cue length for a specific player.


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Grip to bridge + 10"?
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Donny Lutz
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Question Grip to bridge + 10"? - 10-11-2012, 09:43 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by devorator View Post
It's an easy way to figure out what fits your stroke. Measure the distance between your grip and your bridge and add 5 inches on both sides.
Chris

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Measuring the distance BETWEEN the grip and bridge hands and adding 10" would dictate that I use a 46" cue (I'm 5'"9" and 90 degrees at address).
Measuring from the FRONT of the bridge hand to the BACK of the grip hand, it would still tell me to use a cue of no more than 53-54 inches in length.

Am I missing something?

Donny L
PBIA/ACS Instructor
  
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Bob Jewett
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10-11-2012, 10:30 AM

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Originally Posted by HawaiianEye View Post
I know a custom cue maker who says the "optimum" length for a cue is where the cue tip touches the bottom lip of the player as measured from the cue resting on the floor.
Is there no one over 5'2" in his village?

But to answer the original question, I think the best length is where you can handle nearly all shots without an extension. The best extension systems I've seen are for snooker cues -- actually built for the cue stick, not some pitiful slip-on contraption.


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10-11-2012, 11:15 AM

The way I identify a Pangit thread is it has Pangit's name on it.

Now that we have that nonsense out of the way, he poses a question that should be of great concern to cue makers. It has spawned a multi-million dollar sub-industry in golf which is called club fitting and yes, it does make a big difference. Playing with a properly fitted set of clubs will make you more consistent immediately.

I see no reason this principle cannot be applied to pool. Many years ago, when I was a trumpet player, I was shopping for a new horn and I came across a kit for a horn called an Olds Custom. The kit was a couple of cases. Inside were a few valve bodies of various sizes, different bells, lead pipes, etc. They fit together with screw clamps. You could mix and match different components and assemble a horn you liked. They would then take down the numbers off the components and send them to the factory and a few weeks later, you got the horn you built.

A cue fitter could meet you at the pool room with a couple of suit cases of components and fit you. Length, balance, weight distribution, shaft taper, butt taper, grip style, on and on. You could get all of that settled and have a printout of your custom specifications to hand to the cue maker of your choice. It would be a lot cheaper than dropping a thousand on a cue, playing with it for a few weeks and finding out something about it bothers you and wind up selling it for a loss. It doesn't matter how well a cue is made, if it doesn't fit you, it is not worth it. If I were a cue maker, I absolutely would be doing it. The one size fits most approach has gone on long enough.

Last edited by ChopStick; 10-11-2012 at 11:21 AM.
  
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10-11-2012, 11:42 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopStick View Post
The way I identify a Pangit thread is it has Pangit's name on it.

Now that we have that nonsense out of the way, he poses a question that should be of great concern to cue makers. It has spawned a multi-million dollar sub-industry in golf which is called club fitting and yes, it does make a big difference. Playing with a properly fitted set of clubs will make you more consistent immediately.

I see no reason this principle cannot be applied to pool. Many years ago, when I was a trumpet player, I was shopping for a new horn and I came across a kit for a horn called an Olds Custom. The kit was a couple of cases. Inside were a few valve bodies of various sizes, different bells, lead pipes, etc. They fit together with screw clamps. You could mix and match different components and assemble a horn you liked. They would then take down the numbers off the components and send them to the factory and a few weeks later, you got the horn you built.

A cue fitter could meet you at the pool room with a couple of suit cases of components and fit you. Length, balance, weight distribution, shaft taper, butt taper, grip style, on and on. You could get all of that settled and have a printout of your custom specifications to hand to the cue maker of your choice. It would be a lot cheaper than dropping a thousand on a cue, playing with it for a few weeks and finding out something about it bothers you and wind up selling it for a loss. It doesn't matter how well a cue is made, if it doesn't fit you, it is not worth it. If I were a cue maker, I absolutely would be doing it. The one size fits most approach has gone on long enough.
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10-11-2012, 07:12 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donny Lutz View Post
Measuring the distance BETWEEN the grip and bridge hands and adding 10" would dictate that I use a 46" cue (I'm 5'"9" and 90 degrees at address).
Measuring from the FRONT of the bridge hand to the BACK of the grip hand, it would still tell me to use a cue of no more than 53-54 inches in length.

Am I missing something?

Donny L
PBIA/ACS Instructor
You are missing nada. That's the lenght you need for a proper balance and stroke. Take it as you want but it's phisics 101. QED.
Chris

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Tony_in_MD
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10-11-2012, 07:18 PM

Well Donny, hope you like using a bridge, your going to need it.




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10-11-2012, 07:25 PM

I'm 6'4, use both a short & long bridge, and play well with a 58" cue using a 29" shaft. I have tried a 30" & 31" shaft and 60" cues, I liked them, but rarely needed the added length. I think a 58, 59, or 60" cue is the optimal length given the players preference.
  
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10-11-2012, 07:38 PM

My friend John Nemic,the cue maker,is making me cues of every length from 58 up to 63 inches long
i then play with each length and either cut an inch or so from the butt to continue the
experiment or add length to it

i picked up another 60 inch on the way that i really like the way i play,so i know the cue i decide on will be 60 or more for me

i am also doing the same type of thing with tapers on the shaft,i start with super stiff and take a little off until its right

i won't have formulas for other people but i will know what i like
  
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Only if...
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Donny Lutz
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Smile Only if... - 10-12-2012, 02:09 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony_in_MD View Post
Well Donny, hope you like using a bridge, your going to need it.


Not that often, if I keep control of "whitey"...

But yes, that's the drawback of using shorter cues. I was just saying my 100-year-old shorty plays nicely....though not as well as some of my "standard" cues. I wish I'd have had it years ago when I played on bar boxes with obstacles...

I also like just to look at it...the butt is one of those double butterflies, and has seen [B]LOTS[B] of play. The shaft was broken, but I found an equally old Brunswick curly maple shaft that magically fit just right! There's a pic of it on my new website which should be up and running on Sunday.

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