router and slitting saw?

snipershot

snipershot

Go ahead.....run for it.
Silver Member
I made a little fixture to hold my remelt to cut my rings with, but it bogs down and doesn't seem to be very efficient, so I'm thinking about buying a router and using some larger slitting saw blades. Has anyone else tried this? I'm kinda worried that the speed of the router is more than the blades will be rated for.

Joe
 
snipershot said:
I made a little fixture to hold my remelt to cut my rings with, but it bogs down and doesn't seem to be very efficient, so I'm thinking about buying a router and using some larger slitting saw blades. Has anyone else tried this? I'm kinda worried that the speed of the router is more than the blades will be rated for.

Joe
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Hey Joe,

I use KJ's carbide slitting saw that he sell's here one and a while and it is just big enough to cut through the 3/4 ID material and works perfect.

When I tried the Brianna big one's before it was not as good holding dimension between the flats.

Rick

IMG_5073.jpg
 
Most blades are rated for 30,000 rpms. You could use a router with variable speed control, like the ridgid trim router.
Dave
 
63Kcode said:
After seeing your photo. I think you need a stronger mount. The one pictured will allow the saw to vibrate to much.

Larry
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Its not a very good mount, but it worked. I'm working on something new right now. I have a rotary tool that has a 1/4 inch collect that I mounted a saw arbor with a 20 thou blade on. I cut some .030 purple heart rings with it, but its burning it a little bit. I think my arbor isn't perfect and its letting the blade wobble. I'll post pics if I can remember, lol.

Joe
 
Here's the new setup. Old news to most guys probably, but its a step up for me. Lol.

Joe
 

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I don't want to say one way is better then another and I love cool tools a gadgets a lot, but to an extent but sometimes it is easy to over complicate something. I am just a hobbyist like most here and for over 30 years I have been doing it the same way and never really had a reason to do it ant differently. I just use a cutting tool I have ground, It is not wide and is ground with some relief behind the point. The point protrudes a little on the leading edge so it parts off the ring perfectly without any tearing.

My trick to me getting them the width I want is to just give it a touch the the cutter then check the width with my indicator and adjust it till it is perfect. I start slightly oversize then move the tool over till the size is correct. Takes no more then a few seconds and I part off the ring and move on to the next. There is very little waste. Before I do another I quickly face off the remaining billet. A QC tool post is a big help to save time.

I don't know how many rings anyone making just a few cues needs but in an hour you can make a few dozen this way. You can also just take a billet off the shelf and cut a ring in just a few seconds should you need one with no real set up. I will try to add a picture of the simple cutter I ground. I think I have made maybe three in the last 10 years they don't really ware out. I just touch up the tip so it is sharp. Maybe I am still in the stone age but it works for me.
 

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macguy said:
I don't want to say one way is better then another and I love cool tools a gadgets a lot, but to an extent but sometimes it is easy to over complicate something. I am just a hobbyist like most here and for over 30 years I have been doing it the same way and never really had a reason to do it ant differently. I just use a cutting tool I have ground, It is not wide and is ground with some relief behind the point. The point protrudes a little on the leading edge so it parts off the ring perfectly without any tearing.

My trick to me getting them the width I want is to just give it a touch the the cutter then check the width with my indicator and adjust it till it is perfect. I start slightly oversize then move the tool over till the size is correct. Takes no more then a few seconds and I part off the ring and move on to the next. There is very little waste. Before I do another I quickly face off the remaining billet. A QC tool post is a big help to save time.

I don't know how many rings anyone making just a few cues needs but in an hour you can make a few dozen this way. You can also just take a billet off the shelf and cut a ring in just a few seconds should you need one with no real set up. I will try to add a picture of the simple cutter I ground. I think I have made maybe three in the last 10 years they don't really ware out. I just touch in the tip so it is sharp. Maybe I am still in the stone age but it works for me.
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I've been using a cut off blade and it worked well with everything except phenolic. I saw a video of Ernie at Gina cues using his dedicated ring cutter and it made me wanna try to do that. I also like being able to cut super thin rings, and I couldn't seem to be able to do that with my cut off tool. I can also use this to cut joint collars, ferrules, and butt caps. I tried it out on some solid juma rod last night, and I couldn't believe how smooth the cut was. There's no wrong way to do it, just different ways.

Joe
 
snipershot said:
I've been using a cut off blade and it worked well with everything except phenolic. I saw a video of Ernie at Gina cues using his dedicated ring cutter and it made me wanna try to do that. I also like being able to cut super thin rings, and I couldn't seem to be able to do that with my cut off tool. I can also use this to cut joint collars, ferrules, and butt caps. I tried it out on some solid juma rod last night, and I couldn't believe how smooth the cut was. There's no wrong way to do it, just different ways.

Joe
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Cut off blades didn't work for me either. The grind I have on this simple tool is beveled underneath, You can't see it in the picture, and it is strong and ridged. I can cut rings .010 thick and they come off perfectly. I think I have been doing it so long it is easy for me. I have to be honest, at least for rings, it is so easy, accurate and quick that for the average guy with minimal equipment he can do nice work with this way.
 
I bought one of Todd's dremel tool mounts but never got around to using it so I gave it/ donated it to MortuaryMike since he wanted to try one out. I have just been using the standard .040 parting blade and have had pretty good luck with it. I can cut my rings down as small as .020, anything smaller (I tried cutting a .015 ring) and it seems to tear/rip/break the ring in half or into pieces.

I would love to try the router to cut rings but was told there isn't a mount available that will mount the router in a horizontal position on my Taig lathe. Or at least the mount that Todd sells will not allow the router to mount in a horizontal position, after Todd told me that I kinda quit looking for a router mount.
 
Dirtbmw20 said:
I bought one of Todd's dremel tool mounts but never got around to using it so I gave it/ donated it to MortuaryMike since he wanted to try one out. I have just been using the standard .040 parting blade and have had pretty good luck with it. I can cut my rings down as small as .020, anything smaller (I tried cutting a .015 ring) and it seems to tear/rip/break the ring in half or into pieces.

I would love to try the router to cut rings but was told there isn't a mount available that will mount the router in a horizontal position on my Taig lathe. Or at least the mount that Todd sells will not allow the router to mount in a horizontal position, after Todd told me that I kinda quit looking for a router mount.
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If your parting tool has a square cut, as it is about to go through it will tear. If you put an angled grind on the front of the parting tool so the cut is completed by the point on the leading edge, (The edge on the side of the ring to be cut off) It will part off perfectly.
 
Put this link back up because the pics in the link was helpful. K2CNC does not show this mount on their site anymore but if you call them maybe they can help get one.

This mount is very similiar to the mount Dano posted except my mount is taller.

The saw does not have to be centered with the chuck center to perform correctly.

Thank you Lee for the positive reply, glad it helped.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=3522402&postcount=11
 
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macguy said:
If your parting tool has a square cut, as it is about to go through it will tear. If you put an angled grind on the front of the parting tool so the cut is completed by the point on the leading edge, (The edge on the side of the ring to be cut off) It will part off perfectly.
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Thanks for the tip macguy. I might have to experiment with an old blade and see if I can grind on it some.
 
I have a Hightower Deluxe with the spring loaded cross slide which makes the centerline too high. I ordered a normal cross slide from Chris and leave my router mounted so I don't have to align it when needed. Slide it on, cut, throw it on the shelf. I mounted an indicator on my bed extension clamp to measure the thickness. I don’t need my bed extension when cutting rings and the indicator doesn’t mind when I do use my bed extension.

I got nothing to hide and I don't need a nickel from selling them. If you need one the pdf is attached. Game on.
 

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DanO said:
I have a Hightower Deluxe with the spring loaded cross slide which makes the centerline too high. I ordered a normal cross slide from Chris and leave my router mounted so I don't have to align it when needed. Slide it on, cut, throw it on the shelf. I mounted an indicator on my bed extension clamp to measure the thickness. I don’t need my bed extension when cutting rings and the indicator doesn’t mind when I do use my bed extension. Game on.
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Cool mount, thanks for sharing.:cool:
 
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Busbee Cue said:
Post deleted. The manufacturer no longer makes the mount I was refering to so the post became useless.
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The post wasn't useless. You either had some pics posted or a link to an older thread that had pics attached (can't remember now), that alone was a good help to me. Thanks for sharing them. :smile:
 
DanO said:
I have a Hightower Deluxe with the spring loaded cross slide which makes the centerline too high. I ordered a normal cross slide from Chris and leave my router mounted so I don't have to align it when needed. Slide it on, cut, throw it on the shelf. I mounted an indicator on my bed extension clamp to measure the thickness. I don’t need my bed extension when cutting rings and the indicator doesn’t mind when I do use my bed extension.

I got nothing to hide and I don't need a nickel from selling them. If you need one the pdf is attached. Game on.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the attached pdf DanO !!!
 
I used to have similar tearout problems. Now heres the trick. A hollow billet, predrilled will tend to tear out when you cut through. When you build your billets, if you sleeve them onto a maple rod, glueing only the face of the billet to the face of the dowel, they cut apart cleanly, as thin as you want to go. When sleeving the billet youll want a nice tight fit onto the cutaway maple dowel. Again, just glue only the facees together and the centers pop right out after each ring is cut. No more tearout, no matter what cutting method or cutaway tool you like to use. Hope this helps.
 
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