Trouble gluing Moori
- Thread starter Klopek
- Start date
Loctite Super Glue gel gave me nightmatares too.
The thing is off the shelf, you don't really know how old or how they were stored.
The extra step you mentioned might help.
But, if you have patience, you might as well try Gorilla glue.
That tip ain't going anywhere with Gorilla glue ( they have a fast curing one now in white ) and it will not have that nasty sound when you draw the cueball.
IF you must use Super Glue gel, coat the bottom of the tip. Then scratch it again when dry. Scratch the face of the ferrule gently with a 220 grit,. clean it and moisten it water a little . Let the tip rest with the glue for 5 minutes ( why rush it ? ). Then work on it.
The thing is off the shelf, you don't really know how old or how they were stored.
The extra step you mentioned might help.
But, if you have patience, you might as well try Gorilla glue.
That tip ain't going anywhere with Gorilla glue ( they have a fast curing one now in white ) and it will not have that nasty sound when you draw the cueball.
IF you must use Super Glue gel, coat the bottom of the tip. Then scratch it again when dry. Scratch the face of the ferrule gently with a 220 grit,. clean it and moisten it water a little . Let the tip rest with the glue for 5 minutes ( why rush it ? ). Then work on it.
dave sutton
Banned
ive never had a tip fall off . ive used only locktite gel for 10 years. thats including phenolic tips glued only reg ferrule.
you cant use the very beginning or the very end.
on a new bottle just squeeze out the first stream and it will work fine. when it looks too watery it is done...
what grit did you rough it up with
you cant use the very beginning or the very end.
on a new bottle just squeeze out the first stream and it will work fine. when it looks too watery it is done...
what grit did you rough it up with
Klopek said:
I have used loctite super glue for years with great success. After sanding the tip put the glue on and spread it out and let it sit for about a minute. Reapply the glue to the tip and after 10 or 15 seconds just check that it hasn't also soaked in. Apply a thin coat to the ferrule and put the two together. Apply pressure for about a minute then trim and shape and you are away.
dave sutton
Banned
Klopek said:The tip never fell off, I played with it for about a week and didn't like the way it performed. As I was cutting it off, half the thin bottom layer broke off and I was able to peel the other half off with my finger nail.
The problem was the tip absorbed the glue before it bonded, nothing wrong with the glue, brand new bottle from Home Depot. They don't sit on the shelf long there. Probably the tenth tip I glued with that bottle.
I've never had this problem with any other tips, that's why I'm asking for some advice.
i think your prob might be the way you cut and shaped it.
the layers come apart easy. while they may not fall apart they will play bad.
always trim down twards the ferrule. shaped the the sharpest toll possible. i used a new razor blade
i apply pressure then trimming dia so the layers cant come apart.
what did you use a lathe or willard or by hand
ps if the glue absorbed fast (which i dont understand) put alot on then wipe it off around the ferrule...
I use Loctite 454 myself but I understand there are many gels that will work. To set off any super glue, moisture must be present. I only put the glue on the face of the ferrule, myself. Usually you can just breath real heavily on the sanded back of a tip to impart enough moisture for the glue to set up. I have found that Morri tips need more moisture than this though. When I just breath on them heavily they do not stick very well. I lick the back of Morri tips and then wipe off the excess and holed the tip in place for approximately 15 seconds and they don't come off.
Dick
Dick
Klopek said:Gorilla glue, I'll have to give that a try thanks guys.
Joey, does the Gorilla glue stay softer?. Is that what stops the harsh sound from drawing.
GG is definitely softer. Even though it's paper-thin it does insulate a bit. Also, you'll love it when it's time to replace the tip. Cuts off a lot easier than any rock-hard CA glue I've ever used.
Bill
alternate glue
I just had the same problem with a Moori III and happened to be out of Loctite 454. I had some of Atlas "Bond Delrin" glue so I tried it and it worked really well. May want to give that a try of you have some around.
It's actually a REALLY good cyano glue....may start using it on all my tips!!
Mike
I just had the same problem with a Moori III and happened to be out of Loctite 454. I had some of Atlas "Bond Delrin" glue so I tried it and it worked really well. May want to give that a try of you have some around.
It's actually a REALLY good cyano glue....may start using it on all my tips!!
Mike
layers coming undone, It's been mentioned I believe, but that can be caused during the trimming proccess. I too only use the cutter in My toolpost going in the one direction, toward the headstock. Some guys don't even like to trim with a razor going the other direction unless the have tailstock pressure from a small concave live center. I have a large concave, so It covers part of the tip, and i'm not able to use it as easily for that, so I go without it, but I always use a sharp razor, and I haven't had any issues from that part.
With tips popping off, I do what dick mentioned about breathing on the stuff to help activate & I also have been using 454 for a while now. I do that on both the ferrule and the tip, I prefer to put glue on the tip and ferrule though, so I go a different route there. I do use the thin Pro Ca on tips sometimes, but usually only on the ones that are hard to lap perfectly, I guess it may kind of work like a primer too.
I finally figured out that using My large concave to clamp the tip wasn't a good idea anymore, I started putting them on with My thumb, pressing in the middle of the tip while the glue sets. It really seems to help. I need to get a smaller center that only applies pressure in the middle of the radius, instead of the outside of it, like the larger one. I noticed one or 2 tips that were domed after popping off some house cues, and put 2 and 2 together. Since I've changed that it has made a world of difference.
Some people use a heavy grit paper, I tend to put light thin spaced hatch marks on trouble ferrules with the tip of a utility razor. I make sure I clean the razor with solvet to remove any oils from the new blades beforehand though.
Greg
With tips popping off, I do what dick mentioned about breathing on the stuff to help activate & I also have been using 454 for a while now. I do that on both the ferrule and the tip, I prefer to put glue on the tip and ferrule though, so I go a different route there. I do use the thin Pro Ca on tips sometimes, but usually only on the ones that are hard to lap perfectly, I guess it may kind of work like a primer too.
I finally figured out that using My large concave to clamp the tip wasn't a good idea anymore, I started putting them on with My thumb, pressing in the middle of the tip while the glue sets. It really seems to help. I need to get a smaller center that only applies pressure in the middle of the radius, instead of the outside of it, like the larger one. I noticed one or 2 tips that were domed after popping off some house cues, and put 2 and 2 together. Since I've changed that it has made a world of difference.
Some people use a heavy grit paper, I tend to put light thin spaced hatch marks on trouble ferrules with the tip of a utility razor. I make sure I clean the razor with solvet to remove any oils from the new blades beforehand though.
Greg
Loctite professional from Lowes is good stuff, just treat the back of the tip as you mentioned. You need to apply the glue to the back of the tip and wipe it off after a little soaks in, then sand smooth after it cures. Repeat if needed. I know some old timers that used Weldwood contact cement, they swore buy it for house cues.
any good gel glue works fine
1) make sure its fresh
2) as said before on here moisture sets it
3) sand tip well and keep preasure on while setting
1) make sure its fresh
2) as said before on here moisture sets it
3) sand tip well and keep preasure on while setting
