Ok so how many times does shaft "straightness" end a cue deal? Yeah it has a taper roll, or whatever you want to term it. Have you ever thought about shafts and what really happens when you lay them flat on the table? Or even rolling them on the rail.
The model I am using is an .840 diameter at the collar, .510 at the tip, with an 8 inch pro taper. After that taper its a clear shot to the joint OD.
First you need to realize that the shaft straightness is measured from center of the shaft. The end diameters and the need to be concentric within the center line of the wood. So if you eld a shaft in a straight position you would see a gap of approximately a little over an 1/8 to a little under 3/16. This would be how much the tip was set back off the OD of the joint collar.
Now imagine that you let the nose (tip) drop.. what would happen? Most people think that the whole shaft should rest on the table. Is that what really happens? No it's not.. When you drop the nose it is .325 degrees of a drop to touch the tip to the edge of the .840 joint diameter to have them on the same plane. The center comes off the table.. how much do you think on this theoretical shaft is off the table in the center? It's actually .031. That's a 1/32 raise off the table in the center of a PERFECT shaft. Now I used a straight taper.. what happens when you start putting curves and "parabolics", etc.. It's going to get more in somce cases.
What stays on the table in theory? The joint edge, and the tip. That's it.... The only way the entire shaft should be flat on the table is if the .840 diameter is a straight shot to the .510 diameter, it's the only time, theoretically that this would occur.
How come this cannot be seen so easily.. well you're dealing with cloth, that's nappy so this has "height" to hide some of the flaw. I would imagine that the only time you could see this is on a grinding table, maybe with good magnification.
Remember this next time you are looking at cues and you think you're getting a warped shaft.
JV
The model I am using is an .840 diameter at the collar, .510 at the tip, with an 8 inch pro taper. After that taper its a clear shot to the joint OD.
First you need to realize that the shaft straightness is measured from center of the shaft. The end diameters and the need to be concentric within the center line of the wood. So if you eld a shaft in a straight position you would see a gap of approximately a little over an 1/8 to a little under 3/16. This would be how much the tip was set back off the OD of the joint collar.
Now imagine that you let the nose (tip) drop.. what would happen? Most people think that the whole shaft should rest on the table. Is that what really happens? No it's not.. When you drop the nose it is .325 degrees of a drop to touch the tip to the edge of the .840 joint diameter to have them on the same plane. The center comes off the table.. how much do you think on this theoretical shaft is off the table in the center? It's actually .031. That's a 1/32 raise off the table in the center of a PERFECT shaft. Now I used a straight taper.. what happens when you start putting curves and "parabolics", etc.. It's going to get more in somce cases.
What stays on the table in theory? The joint edge, and the tip. That's it.... The only way the entire shaft should be flat on the table is if the .840 diameter is a straight shot to the .510 diameter, it's the only time, theoretically that this would occur.
How come this cannot be seen so easily.. well you're dealing with cloth, that's nappy so this has "height" to hide some of the flaw. I would imagine that the only time you could see this is on a grinding table, maybe with good magnification.
Remember this next time you are looking at cues and you think you're getting a warped shaft.
JV