Brunswick Victor pool table

WHSII

WHSII

Registered
I hope this is the proper place to post this thread.

I am restoring an old poolroom table that my Dad traded an old coal furnace for, around 1959.

We have had it setup in my parents house since, and used it since I was six years old.

Dad sanded the rails and the bed a bit, put a coat of varnish on it and had it set up by a mechanic. When I took it apart, last Memorial day, it still had the 1959 cloth on it.
s7wIKSmv8OzDVNf_qNE2q6TY1P8JsftbBEFen5Z6xA_TB_u5P8cNk4DuTaJXR3zLJ2mwBPPjQkwB9zLgN8W0Yi81If1dmufKJFWKIO4f-dMkNFfNreT0rZ1pc5qCUe-7GaEsRmvh9YpZbA1rV6SaTMRoZ8xQTycfOUEqd2elqkJ9VO21tbVfFgbgbyVuGmbiSVSG0aB_sGKO0OutzD-nkKxFK5yIpCwdkU_POpBS-JI2hV6lcOxNpnbuTUcLVRDbX3m9ReiTVT76U7FZkrx4NuZw5CZ6L7zpu1oaGGPaJPwU_N8wsMPOs25iDznR1m5J4vld9n7QL_78tizR_D-35Ej5yrnlFtzd-VMTSaJXavCH5-U1IQqU4jEzYsQONmMm8OX_eOTQv4IypBBKNgmmtSTQqe5DFQSGsnUCTooaOKz750aml88ZYPn5Z34SAIOCEMGk_nOSKpIiRo5pTs81_gY1GM_xiLSj3SXtPrKqtRcuHDN_JjXdeihLJcJfRAsBxKw6wRfShjo3zqjTiKoOVkIGnCoVtRVLAJLNDuxZbBPwzf33B5iQcxttUZjvwRR6qexIbnY7jAoEIy4qnAcJu__zGIUDTPu60suyOz2MmOQjR0xfGIxc=w1079-h804-no


This was the condition when i took it apart.

I am now 63 years old, and decided to put the table back to new condition.

I am a carpenter / cabinet maker, and have put the woodwork back to better than new condition.

fvlxPVB7t6Gq-LjO7eG0-mCiZLyVmvxzx7g1nK3gfBE_i2CWCzbiNWk_PDzTpUjxIcAYPPErxZQy55JbVgW8-RDdrMjKu-SS3cIOA9yEateC9gP2rWB2Gdtiq2tzSmAINDvTO2OXszG2646tOyoFkm4uSWpD05QjCnWioKGweLovksNFRv8Bg0QZP_YQ_RJPKjPBJpwqu6lrHdUmv_vXrEHZoTzeSN09U03B2ktKFK4tJM7emqGPFaMKK-_0-LRX7cToi6B-Eh7MeJampmJDsyezChdFvotgPBxdRCb84yj9AUzQ7bfe0iYGuCYpS5GxGHyV59JPRVVQltMV9tfO8Su4Hn3J13FaJPoYoklz0iGfYULHjuOyH1Q00WmpvsCZJr8_fDsR-Iqa__ZOSXyxXdnPyPJ4PPPdnQ05bBk0N5LGNBQO1y-sGE1eScC7SJc0-0G3bRHcLMdcDmv-aey3NLVL5jrjsbpFQoFXN-PvGDAW7l9fGurfJjPzuiwRcKo8QWYuGtALpYlH2d19swfCO9SgfmhfHMbfgWgcCTnyLD2ugAweXAiAcZXB3XLfGwQGYbBw7M9jDtZcR75Z3_LAZ4OSz7JRRcHaJ02t9mBNbbSQxz0hR53m=w1079-h804-no


f50JoGu1Rqta8qnEAM75fwZXtNpu5NJtQD-2VYzOwsmIO84ciHzFRyec2p2oyE800PUmwVfXTVhy1ttIJdkkYZY-Hm6Z08zXKcW88RBdI8K6NRy5zbXwCxl3xG7JtEnBwIdDQWiRIf62u2Bo9X9ifQU2ESSHTDShDGOV2E0lHR0fH1P_XTiT3Ksn1XLQr8fWkY8tV6jGZM2RuoyZ3jG-9NtZ00O2KRDulwYpapZ1q347lMtvUb9FzXpLuZZWWx9PHr-vlkkAhnZwTzOHKW6AdrCXEqAQQg-3DgiwjY3GbKOSFq4iJFkaOCL43ibZlCXTP13S7ec2PwX96k-IlgkBeJg8vWjm19HNoxi8QMmKTWr7qlqsali6BAq1cdpnb-X6mYGNj_-ZRf5pnozOCGwpnZuIyyuWVWArAeFwB3p9-Ui0Kv8l-2P-CmBaDWIS0JG3Kv4b-Y8YNuuKnCULbvV43eWNjBQ4OB6o4c02A4x2GYvwAbkdiJopoGMJsbIsSIQmsShvaLfZhY0oSjPn9VF8KEfSkzYRMFa9Sh52f--1X5Ke0zIAt7OIHYvyk71lIdRxcAruPATQSkg5WxV9Atnt1udv_nv3nTlnA3-S4oL8YKw6od-IYDw1=w1079-h804-no

VzbvlgrH1WVfbLuqFFwxa1_XUb4j2C3UzcZastJ7eqMapd_aPy4L4iQqbriSHnl73AD_aUCoAx3lo2b6Y29ZxsafdKRpInrEIdQjxi7Z3B18ZVfZ7H5ocJiukac_sE6Xu0QTNAGn6xsjVuwwH4ywsN-gCd5OXl_iAV01C04zg0s_L-Saa1n_2AdEgKWMqDqzDYQjCN8NXwRPPPV6f0rfiPHS5nk89uJ01HuW7Andjh33sLSbs6p4DB8HgFqI8NuGYwBuf7sAldXJ4DB5-rTKcJI0k_g60DcUl9vHh9Wsckrf51gbTt9gut5XXqXYiHdSh-8aTie8b1dl1-1qhaY4wt7lVkyuVTInpJPqeRThPUBItIjQbgaT1jxIifJ4WS9eoJvj1uK2fud9f0-ZiFHDD_OMSvp08LxkYgSL7hzxcuUY0WmCV2OQgPBI430x1qjTnWQkKa9rdyCc2RLrQuidDbZCaCmfx4dU-KVWoons9phMks0lnK1iBWERrAMblhgHE8CoZi6iebR53DnHx3MVuWcBm47wrEEFC5ot4GrjWbkaH7UygLCYLTc1vcgKEKYXFwWHZrzivU_omQOpoPGpL_h0_ytwW7t-nl9MWYodkQDaj0ntEtaR=w1079-h804-no

I have the woodwork completed, I have to bring the slate back to Kentucky from West Virginia. Hopefully this coming weekend.

It had K-66 rubber on it, but I have been told that it is not the same as the original Monarch rubber. Any thoughts as to what to use?

The last cloth had a backing on it, What cloth should I go with?

I have read the sticky on three piece slate leveling, and I feel I can do this, is covering the table something I can do?

Is there anything that I should do, or check in regards to the wood that the rails mount to?

Well these are the first set of questions I would like to propose to the Mechanics.

I take much pride in doing these things myself, I restored my Dad's last pickup truck, a 1980 Jeep J-10 Honcho stepside, and only had the interior covered by a contractor. ( My wife and I could have done it but we did not have a sewing machine that would handle the thickness of the material.)

Thanks for your help!

WH
 
Last edited:
bradsh98

bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
Welcome to the forum! It looks like you have quite a fun project in the works.

Unfortunately, it looks like maybe your photos have not been made 'Public', so they did not show up in the thread.

Anyhow, in regards to cushions, you should use k55 cushions. There are many manufacturers to choose from. It's all in how much you want to spend. Artemis cushions will last forever, but many people feel that they bank funny, and there is a bit of a discrepancy in how to correctly install them (You can do a forum search, to see the threads on that issue).. Many people, including myself, really like the Diamond black k55 cushions. MBS cushions are a cheap alternative, that perform pretty well. Some people like the Brunswick Superspeed cushions. However, they tend to have quite a bit of mold flash along the top side of the cushion, making installation more time consuming.

Having said all of that, I should also mention: in order to correctly install k55 cushions on your rails, you should modify the subrails. This will require changing the angle of the wood face, to which the cushions mount to. This is required, in order to adjust the nose height of the cushion. Generally speaking, the nose height of the cushion should be approximately 1 29/64", depending on the cushion that you choose. Simply installing k55 cushions on your current subrails will cause the nose height to be low. Now, since you have an antique, on which the rails are bolted through the sides of the slate, you could simply shim the rails to the correct height. Though, this is not the ideal way to go about it.

There is quite a bit more to it, but these are the basics.

I will not publicly get into the details of how to do the work, as this type of work is specialized. There are only a handful of table technicians, across the country, who consistently and reliably, perform this type of work.

If you would like more info, feel free to private message me.

Good luck with your project!
 
R

Renegade_56

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I don't know about the K55 profile, it may be correct or not. It's very easy to measure the profile. I have a 1966 Victor that has K66 profile. All that said, Victor is still in business in Philly and even though they no longer make tables they may have historical data.
 
WHSII

WHSII

Registered
Renegade_56 said:
I don't know about the K55 profile, it may be correct or not. It's very easy to measure the profile. I have a 1966 Victor that has K66 profile. All that said, Victor is still in business in Philly and even though they no longer make tables they may have historical data.
Click to expand...

Hello Renegade,

This is not a Victor brand pool table, it is a Brunswick, Victor. I hope the link works for the pictures, you can see the first picture from Brunswick 1910 catalogue that shows what is looked like new.

Thanks!

WH
 
WHSII

WHSII

Registered
bradsh98 said:
Welcome to the forum! It looks like you have quite a fun project in the works.

Unfortunately, it looks like maybe your photos have not been made 'Public', so they did not show up in the thread.


Good luck with your project!
Click to expand...

Thanks bradsh98,

Hopefully, the link will let the pictures work.

You probably will regret the private message invite... I have a ton of questions, I am a perfectionist, and want to do things proper.

Thanks,
WH
 
Ralph Kramden

Ralph Kramden

BOOM!.. ZOOM!.. MOON!
Silver Member
WHSII said:
https://goo.gl/photos/2yE8Zz2mJkj5eHJG8

This should be a link to "all pictures of my table" please let me know if the link works, I will figgure out how to post individual pictures hopefully soon.

Thanks for the comments, I will reply once I get the pictures worked out.

Thanks,
WH
Click to expand...

That'll be an awesome table when done. Looks like you know what you're doin' when it comes to wood working.

The www.wpa-pool.com website has table/equip specifications. The side pocket angles look wide in the pictures.

.
 
realkingcobra

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
WHSII said:
Thanks bradsh98,

Hopefully, the link will let the pictures work.

You probably will regret the private message invite... I have a ton of questions, I am a perfectionist, and want to do things proper.

Thanks,
WH
Click to expand...

Just to let you know, bar tables are coin operated, does that table have a coin chute on it?
 
Ralph Kramden

Ralph Kramden

BOOM!.. ZOOM!.. MOON!
Silver Member
realkingcobra said:
Just to let you know, bar tables are coin operated, does that table have a coin chute on it?
Click to expand...

I'm confused..:confused:... Would a coin op have leather pockets, or are you saying it's a coin op table that's been converted to drop pockets? The pockets look to be original.
.
 
realkingcobra

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
WHSII said:
I hope this is the proper place to post this thread.

I am restoring an old bar table
Click to expand...

You called it a bar table, which is why I ask you if it had a coin chute on it, because that table has nothing to do with being a bar table.
 
WHSII

WHSII

Registered
Ralph Kramden said:
That'll be an awesome table when done. Looks like you know what you're doin' when it comes to wood working.

The www.wpa-pool.com website has table/equip specifications. The side pocket angles look wide in the pictures.

.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ralph,

It had two layers of 1/8" rubber on the ends of each rail, I did not measure what the pockets were before tearing it down, but I will try to put it to standards when completed.

When it comes to woods, I have a major in Industrial Technology, woodworking, drafting and electronics, construction for 40 years, cabinet making and trim work the whole time... I have butchered a few pieces of wood.

Thanks,
WH
 
Last edited:
WHSII

WHSII

Registered
realkingcobra said:
You called it a bar table, which is why I ask you if it had a coin chute on it, because that table has nothing to do with being a bar table.
Click to expand...


Realkingcobra,

I am sorry, being a newbe, I mis spoke, It is or was a Poolroom table, from the early 20th century. No coin chute.

I corrected the original post.

Thanks,
WH
 
Last edited:
WHSII

WHSII

Registered
I finally got the slate moved from West Virginia to Kentucky, got it set in place to acclimate.
nbghr6zn8YSeKfoNcfR7KkgOAOnVxGziG1_ay6EUuzKzmkysM-fpbPRGANdtv8_mG_vCprxX3VN4URrhNt3iCseFv1aWSy532QPBZ6SlmrxGXrHmUtwYEuhqBMk_HgT7cf6Vwctfdhw-_MD6Xn32bnr2cTogU46pFb1n1_PyCPG8Hoj8ruR5tuY1IFvmJnh_TftAcgi0TXbPpB4Feq_AWRJKDua6sllqHa8RkSayjBlNSKU6xmVrY33sKfeNLHwOhZtq9ifOzhZnEn2ZQ7bX7oWRklr7jYTJ4By6-YnmQV4h8DaB2-B8-YW1eNtcDyIQ9TMmF2N8cUURbQQl5vpQXqdkAfhpG7r8cnBOjXVc4Q07uquo6A7Y45KXw0KL-XOa0oWs8OvtQnwVNu8BabGjQfv3u46AcT-oCwT6WgYDVQs5pqidS81g1xjzObv_U_Czs-_vTSuBFKJqSmK0Tt2L7mUH4ACOKcycD-vFYDozZ5rFEsV9ApYGV1m-jBZL9-Wy0A8KK9y-ocGTfCidokXRO1NaHkMBxtGnTPFWpExbOXo7Hs4pDOiZWoCKoSjOsvnX1Hn3xcAuZkE1AM7-mOF79gdfsTtApdZPcqUZRgt3R_YfZgICcBsipU_v-H6WHH5xT7QNtoQpHQKlgstcznHywT-6L6POFcU9aZZ-e08Qzw=w834-h622-no

I noticed three milling marks in each piece of slate. You can feel a raised section at the edge of each.

XJ0DUODFCEYzbONY5YTMKQWpJGuuQ6FJd1fKMbd_L3xS1lx2aQOBt1F2wbKjJQv0ZLfGhKJ1OVUoohCbOx-oJyuJgPtJIIJTOU8i7gD01wbUSXgoEDo7Cw1v9FNTvj1epDjwciIsU09muiMyUHkRjZDihtLw2PqY_uzTbufYUeHM4d7uwC_hK75AGHDpJ7cOFKcj2s_qgKCAaFuGQXBDFIfj8g9Z6F8oiGdVjA8hg_Q7UP5zylk3-HhQCUGy2TsAOkU-RuHDLoe-IHJeLqDzfVtDRjFMAC_Sf2rN19uRybXtSfssA3mIrhIsRGd_TJu-pYj4UR22zTYKdOSAGqA-ALaKCx9FVWiW8816w_gEHNuWXFm-zW3QN2ShAGkyvKsXH-nsdEsfyYaUE3mhHYDipT4Ut9uYND8MxMoUjuc0YFcCBqTXFFDhEiWLPtefYbgATSwaaLV8sBPQyTvSgMzE2cg2CNKpw7kYB8numN8K8_Bqe5XpCT6INXBt87fNFVy577-nsHUlCAel_IKfi-ETPnwkfESjKWildl1_mw_2MyWWWSjKCCANaPErlKyN89EEZwiBAHRyXD_sCrS_EAaWAeQniUCWWqrPkYS7rqpNYow1lxEyTVcjSgd9L3psE6XBj39q932JWkirVxlFM9TCeYR2Cx_dlLyNlG3GsvsQBw=w834-h622-no


Is this something to be concerned about? If so, how would you address it?

Thanks,
WH
 
realkingcobra

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
That's because they're not made from slate, they're actually made out of Brunstone, the dark veins are from stacker boards between the slates to allow air flow while they dry out after milling them. If you take a real close look at them you won't see any circular machine grinding marks on the surface like you do on slate. They're also not pin & dowel in the seams. This model table is one of the cheapest models Brunswick offered at the time for those that just couldn't afford to buy a well built Brunswick table.when the boards are used to keep the prices apart are used, the drying/shrinkage is less effective under the boards, which leaves those areas slightly higher the rest of the surface. Block sanding is the only way to take down that area and blend it with the rest of the surface.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top