Super glue finish ?

Mowem down

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Any tricks to useing superglue as finish over a linen wraped cue to make it feel like a wrapless...
 

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
It is not the correct 'finish' to use for this application. Epoxy based is a much better option. If the cue already has a finish and a wrap installed, then you will have to have the whole butt refinished for it to be a complete success.
Dave
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I agree with Dave but you can use a business card a couple of inches at a time to feed your curiosity.
 

Bumlak

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I agree with Dave but you can use a business card a couple of inches at a time to feed your curiosity.

Agree 100% with what's being said here. You're going to spending a LOT of time on this one if you're planning on using CA. An epoxy finish is going to be more expeditious. Fun for a "personal cue" project, but I don't even know what I would charge for a customer because of the additional time involved.

Eric
 

ideologist

I don't never exaggerate
Silver Member
A very important trick is to use a heavy-duty respirator or hazmat suit and have TONS of airflow and ventilation.

Cyanoacrylate is incredibly poisonous
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Rub a coat of epoxy into the wrap first. Then come back with the CA glue over that.
 

Yotehntr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Does the linen have cotton in it? I know CA has a pretty bad reaction with Cotton... smoke's and gets very hot. I wouldn't want to breath the smoke that came off of it.
 

Chopdoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Linen with cotton in it isn't linen.

Are people using blended wraps and calling it linen?

As far as using CA as a finish I know guitar repair guys have used it for a long time...for repairs.

I have used it fore some small finish repairs. Worked nice.

Using it to finish an entire cue? I have no experience finishing cues.

But medically speaking, you don't want those fumes in your lungs. But you guys work with exotic woods that can cause serious health problems, as well as some of the other finishes.

Safety first of course. Hell, the lathe alone can cause some pretty dramatic injuries.

A lot of you guys have backgrounds in machining etc, but some don't, some hobbyists may not know the hazards.

When using finishes, including CA, have your MSDS sheets on hand and make sure you understand the precautions and hazards. Same with your adhesives and solvents. I know most of you guys know this, this is more for the amateur readers that might start working on cues.

.

.
 
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Bumlak

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A very important trick is to use a heavy-duty respirator or hazmat suit and have TONS of airflow and ventilation.

Cyanoacrylate is incredibly poisonous

Chris hit it on the head. Epoxy coat first and then CA. I did CA finishing wrong for quite a while and was fortunate enough to get a lesson on the correct methods by Eric Crisp.After talking to him about why he uses the methods he does related to the health risk concerns, I did a LOT of research, experimentation and trial and error. Here's what I found incorrect in my process.

1) I was using a BS Thin (as was recommended by several pen turners) which dries too quickly, picks up too much moister from the air VERY quickly, smokes with very little heat (friction) and doesn't apply easily. It can be used as a base coat I'm finding though (I needed to find something to do with it since I had spent $40 on a giant bottle after all.)

2) I was using a paper towel (WORST IDEA EVERRRRRR) which is a messy process at best. Super glue smokes when it gets to a certain heat level. It OFF GASSES at a completely different heat level and that level can only be achieved by use of something like a butane torch. It SEEMS that the thinner the glue, the faster it heats and hence the faster it fumes. Obviously spinning a cue on a lathe and applying friction with a paper towel is just enough to cause the said reaction. It's an irritant to the mucous membranes. Does it give off Cyanide gas? Sort of. Ethyl Cyanide is not the same thing as Potassium Cyanide. I wouldn't use either one as a mouthwash but Ethyl Cyanide is NOT going to make you foam at the mouth and die like a James Bond villain.

3) I wasn't using gloves which caused multiple issues. It's odd how sometimes we fall back into old habits. I didn't use them in drum building until one of my friends got blood poisoning from the poisons in certain finishes. Add to that I was using a paper towel which was now heating up like fire due to the flashing effect of the heptane (accelerator) and here I was running around the shop with pieces of flaming hot super glue soaked paper towel on my hands.

4) No true constant ventilation. Eric showed me his ventilation set up on his finishing lathe. I immediately stored the mental picture and built pretty much the exact same setup. I know it doesn't exactly take Wile E Coyote (Super Genius) to build one...but let's face it, I've married 4 red heads....I'm far from genius.

5) I had NO CLUE how to use accelerator correctly in finishing. The pen turners of the world have a wonderful craft and turn out some really cool stuff. But their techniques are based around a 5-7" x 1/2" pen...not a 29" x .84-1.25" cue butt. You just can't use the same techniques.

The stuff is a pain. That being said, if done correctly, it is a viable finish which polishes very well, goes on quickly and has durability qualities FAR beyond what people may believe. Should it be used as a primary finish? Meh...that really depends on the person. There are inherent little things that I've had to reach out for help on or figure out for myself. Welcome to our craft I guess.
 
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GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Chris hit it on the head. Epoxy coat first and then CA. I did CA finishing wrong for quite a while and was fortunate enough to get a lesson on the correct methods by Eric Crisp.After talking to him about why he uses the methods he does related to the health risk concerns, I did a LOT of research, experimentation and trial and error. Here's what I found incorrect in my process.

1) I was using a BS Thin (as was recommended by several pen turners) which dries too quickly, picks up too much moister from the air VERY quickly, smokes with very little heat (friction) and doesn't apply easily. It can be used as a base coat I'm finding though (I needed to find something to do with it since I had spent $40 on a giant bottle after all.)

2) I was using a paper towel (WORST IDEA EVERRRRRR) which is a messy process at best. Super glue smokes when it gets to a certain heat level. It OFF GASSES at a completely different heat level and that level can only be achieved by use of something like a butane torch. It SEEMS that the thinner the glue, the faster it heats and hence the faster it fumes. Obviously spinning a cue on a lathe and applying friction with a paper towel is just enough to cause the said reaction. It's an irritant to the mucous membranes. Does it give off Cyanide gas? Sort of. Ethyl Cyanide is not the same thing as Potassium Cyanide. I wouldn't use either one as a mouthwash but Ethyl Cyanide is NOT going to make you foam at the mouth and die like a James Bond villain.

3) I wasn't using gloves which caused multiple issues. It's odd how sometimes we fall back into old habits. I didn't use them in drum building until one of my friends got blood poisoning from the poisons in certain finishes. Add to that I was using a paper towel which was now heating up like fire due to the flashing effect of the heptane (accelerator) and here I was running around the shop with pieces of flaming hot super glue soaked paper towel on my hands.

4) No true constant ventilation. Eric showed me his ventilation set up on his finishing lathe. I immediately stored the mental picture and built pretty much the exact same setup. I know it doesn't exactly take Wile E Coyote (Super Genius) to build one...but let's face it, I've married 4 red heads....I'm far from genius.

5) I had NO CLUE how to use accelerator correctly in finishing. The pen turners of the world have a wonderful craft and turn out some really cool stuff. But their techniques are based around a 5-7" x 1/2" pen...not a 29" x .84-1.25" cue butt. You just can't use the same techniques.

The stuff is a pain. That being said, if done correctly, it is a viable finish which polishes very well, goes on quickly and has durability qualities FAR beyond what people may believe. Should it be used as a primary finish? Meh...that really depends on the person. There are inherent little things that I've had to reach out for help on or figure out for myself. Welcome to our craft I guess.

Totally agree on the CA. It's ok for pens and bottle stoppers. It's great when you get the hang of using it but until then it's a nightmare. About the paper towel & CA. I used a white paper towel (was told to use Blue shop towels afterward)...smoked like a Mother you know what...the extinguisher almost came of the wall. I started working with a pale of water close by.
 
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Bumlak

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I would say it's like many things in all lines of work. Practice, correct tools and correct technique make all the difference in the world.
 

louieatienza

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Chris hit it on the head. Epoxy coat first and then CA. I did CA finishing wrong for quite a while and was fortunate enough to get a lesson on the correct methods by Eric Crisp.After talking to him about why he uses the methods he does related to the health risk concerns, I did a LOT of research, experimentation and trial and error. Here's what I found incorrect in my process.

1) I was using a BS Thin (as was recommended by several pen turners) which dries too quickly, picks up too much moister from the air VERY quickly, smokes with very little heat (friction) and doesn't apply easily. It can be used as a base coat I'm finding though (I needed to find something to do with it since I had spent $40 on a giant bottle after all.)

2) I was using a paper towel (WORST IDEA EVERRRRRR) which is a messy process at best. Super glue smokes when it gets to a certain heat level. It OFF GASSES at a completely different heat level and that level can only be achieved by use of something like a butane torch. It SEEMS that the thinner the glue, the faster it heats and hence the faster it fumes. Obviously spinning a cue on a lathe and applying friction with a paper towel is just enough to cause the said reaction. It's an irritant to the mucous membranes. Does it give off Cyanide gas? Sort of. Ethyl Cyanide is not the same thing as Potassium Cyanide. I wouldn't use either one as a mouthwash but Ethyl Cyanide is NOT going to make you foam at the mouth and die like a James Bond villain.

3) I wasn't using gloves which caused multiple issues. It's odd how sometimes we fall back into old habits. I didn't use them in drum building until one of my friends got blood poisoning from the poisons in certain finishes. Add to that I was using a paper towel which was now heating up like fire due to the flashing effect of the heptane (accelerator) and here I was running around the shop with pieces of flaming hot super glue soaked paper towel on my hands.

4) No true constant ventilation. Eric showed me his ventilation set up on his finishing lathe. I immediately stored the mental picture and built pretty much the exact same setup. I know it doesn't exactly take Wile E Coyote (Super Genius) to build one...but let's face it, I've married 4 red heads....I'm far from genius.

5) I had NO CLUE how to use accelerator correctly in finishing. The pen turners of the world have a wonderful craft and turn out some really cool stuff. But their techniques are based around a 5-7" x 1/2" pen...not a 29" x .84-1.25" cue butt. You just can't use the same techniques.

The stuff is a pain. That being said, if done correctly, it is a viable finish which polishes very well, goes on quickly and has durability qualities FAR beyond what people may believe. Should it be used as a primary finish? Meh...that really depends on the person. There are inherent little things that I've had to reach out for help on or figure out for myself. Welcome to our craft I guess.

Having used super glue to finish a guitar neck, and as a sealer coat on another project, I'd agree with most things here. What terrifies me is wearing gloves anywhere near a lathe. I've heard, read, and seen some horrific accidents caused by gloves or clothing caught on a lathe, mill and drill press, disc sander... Don't. Do. It.
 

BHQ

we'll miss you
Silver Member
" but let's face it, I've married 4 red heads....I'm far from genius. "


best line i've seen on az in years!!! :rotflmao1:
 

GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
What terrifies me is wearing gloves anywhere near a lathe. I've heard, read, and seen some horrific accidents caused by gloves or clothing caught on a lathe, mill and drill press, disc sander... Don't. Do. It.

Wearing gloves/jewelry, No face shields, no dust collection systems.... did I miss anything. I was married to Godzilla...I'm not exactly mensa.
 
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Bumlak

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Wearing gloves/jewelry, No face shields, no dust collection systems.... did I miss anything. I was married to Godzilla...I'm not exactly mensa.

Neoprene or similar gloves haven't caused me any issues as of yet. I'm very careful not to wear any jewelry and have fortunately only been bit a few times by my own lack of depth perception.
 

qbilder

slower than snails
Silver Member
I would suggest trying it to see for yourself before adopting anything you read on here as fact. Do as Chopdoc stated & pull up an MSDS or SDS for any chemical you are considering. CA will work just fine covering a linen wrap, just as it does wood or any other material IF you know what you're doing. The only way to know what you're doing is to do it enough to be comfortable doing it.
 
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