I copy pasted your directions here and greenies to you. I'll definitely do that next practice session.
The Draw Drag Shot
- Thread starter 336Robin
- Start date
I copy pasted your directions here and greenies to you. I'll definitely do that next practice session.
Have used it for decades. Combined with an inside strike (about a five or seven o'clock cue ball) produces the best possible kill stoke off a cushion. I often use it to re-gain my intended angle if I get too thin on my keyball when playing 14.1. Kills real nice off the cushion but requires a very smooth and subtle stroke. Open table, especially table length, drag draw tends to undercut the OB; adjust accordingly when using.
The various types of drag shots are described with some demonstrations on the drag shot resource page.
Here is an excerpt describing the different types of drag shots:
One use for a drag shot is a long, slow shot requiring CB roll at the OB, where you don't want to risk table roll-off. If you hit the CB below center, you can use more speed than is required at the OB. With faster speed (before the drag slowing), the CB will be less likely to roll off line due to a non-level table. The drag action makes the bottom spin wear off, slowing the CB; and with enough distance (or slow-enough speed), the CB will develop full roll before reaching the OB.
For drag shots with sidespin, very little sidespin is lost as the CB slows. This intensifies the effect of the sidespin, which can create more spin-induced throw and create a greater rebound-angle change off a cushion.
Enjoy,
Dave
Here's another excerpt from the drag shot resource page providing a definition:
A drag shot is one where CB sliding (from bottom spin, stun, or topspin less than full natural roll) is used to slow the CB on the way to the OB, resulting in the desired amount of draw, stun, or follow at the OB. As the CB drags across the cloth, any backspin gradually wears off, resulting in stun, and then the CB gradually develops complete forward roll.
Regards,
Dave
A drag shot is one where CB sliding (from bottom spin, stun, or topspin less than full natural roll) is used to slow the CB on the way to the OB, resulting in the desired amount of draw, stun, or follow at the OB. As the CB drags across the cloth, any backspin gradually wears off, resulting in stun, and then the CB gradually develops complete forward roll.
Regards,
Dave
I used the drag draw shot two nights ago the last time I played. I also explained it to my opponent who I've been mentoring. Anytime a slow rolling cue ball would make the shot and give you good position, but it is difficult or impossible to hit the cue ball with speed and still get the desired result, you should be thinking about drag draw. On a perfect table it is unnecessary, but since we never play on perfect equipment it's an indispensable tool. When the distance between the cue ball in the object ball is not nice and short, and/or poor quality equipment makes roll-off a risky proposition, drag-draw is the right shot. Someone said that it's not for cut shots, which is completely untrue. Actually it's most useful when the shots not straight in, since if it is straight in you can just hit the cue ball with enough speed to prevent it from rolling off and still hold the cue ball with a stop shot.
definitely not only for straight shots
you can use the drag shot to get in between the tangent and natural 30° lines
It has uses for cuts, too.
If you also add some side, you can get the c/b to stop spinning backwards just as it reaches the o/b to get the soft hit, but still have some side spin left on it so when the c/b hits the rail after contacting the o/b, you get your shape from that spin. Also, english throw is maintained with this technique.
If you try to hit that side spin shot with less speed, the side wears off before it reaches the o/b so you don't get your desired shape. In fact, I use it mostly for side spin shots now, as the equipment is so much better now than in the old days.
It's a must for crooked tables, either way.
My teammate says I'm nuts, but he's way behind the rest of the world in saying that.
Jeff Livingston
I know this is an older thread from last year, but I think the inside english drag draw shot is one of the prettiest / neatest shots you see executed successfully on a pool table, used in order to hold shape for your next ball. The key is in decelerating as you follow through the CB - which is the opposite of what you normally are wired to do, particularly on a draw shot. Executed with the correct speed, spin, and deceleration, it literally defies the laws of motion how fast you can manage to kill the CB off the first rail it contacts (reverse english) after striking the OB, even on a significantly angled cut shot.
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Here is an example of Efren executing this type of shot in his epic hill-hill match versus Rempe.
https://youtu.be/4maz6bcF3WQ?t=1h4m26s
https://youtu.be/4maz6bcF3WQ?t=1h4m26s
Physically, the deceleration is not required and has basically no effect on the action of the cue ball. The important things are how fast the cue stick is going at impact and how far from center you hit as well as the mix of draw and side.
It may help psychologically to think "decelerate" when shooting this shot to get you to hit it as softly as needed, but I think it is better not to and that you will have better speed control if you use a standard, smooth stroke with follow-through for the shot and just play it at the needed (slower) speed.
Yes, excellent example. That appeared to be a straight 6 o'clock drag draw stroke as opposed to an inside spin drag draw stroke, which from that distance between the CB and OB would have been way more difficult. When it can be executed with accuracy with low inside drag draw, the degree in which the CB dies off that first rail is even more dramatic.
That's what I like to use it for, when the draw wears off you're left with an enormous amount of spin. For example you have an OB on the long rail you're cutting to the left into the corner pocket, and your next shot is on the short rail only about 1 to 1.5 diamonds away from that same corner pocket and you need to place the CB in between that corner pocket and the object ball. You can use the draw drag with inside low to get the CB to almost follow the path of the OB that went into the corner once the CB comes off the rail where normally it would wind up on the wrong side of the OB on the short rail.. I know I didn't explain that well but I understood it
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Good explanation here.
Not in one pocket. Helps to bury the CB in the stack and move balls.
No. A draw drag is when you use draw and let it turn into follow as friction takes it course. I like it 'cause i hate to slow-roll the cueball. Drag-draw allows you to hit firmly with draw and allow friction/distance to slow the ball and let it roll.
Drag shots are not just used to prevent table roll off on long shots. They can also be used to intensify sidespin to spin a ball in with a fuller hit and outside english or to create a greater rebound-angle change off a cushion for a position play. And they can also be used to control the amount of forward rotation on the CB when it reaches the OB to help control the carom angle and distance traveled.
Detailed explanations and demonstrations of all of these drag shot applications are available on the drag shot resource page.
Enjoy,
Dave
Detailed explanations and demonstrations of all of these drag shot applications are available on the drag shot resource page.
Enjoy,
Dave
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Those are some cool clips of how this works.
Drag shot
A old hustler friend of mine showed me this shot years ago , he called it a scoot shot.
A old hustler friend of mine showed me this shot years ago , he called it a scoot shot.