Buster, the video appears in a small size on my screen but it looks like you have a bit more angle to the cue than I prefer--the rail bridge will make for a bit more level attack on the cue ball. Not a big deal. You could also use the loop bridge and change the timing of your rising with your body on the final break stroke. Try to do a jump shot with the rail bridge and you'll see what I'm referring to--how the angle of attack on the break stroke varies a bit from your practice stroke.
Buster, the video appears in a small size on my screen but it looks like you have a bit more angle to the cue than I prefer--the rail bridge will make for a bit more level attack on the cue ball. Not a big deal. You could also use the loop bridge and change the timing of your rising with your body on the final break stroke. Try to do a jump shot with the rail bridge and you'll see what I'm referring to--how the angle of attack on the break stroke varies a bit from your practice stroke.
I disagree with the other posters who say that your loop bridge on the rail is wrong. I think they may not be seeing your actual hand position. It appears that your palm is positioned off of the back end of the rail, pressing into it, which brings your loop substantially lower than a normal loop bridge. I think your bridge is very stable with the palm off the rail and the loop on the rail. It's a very acceptable rail bridge. It doesn't appear that you are angled down too much, but I would have to see a closer view of your bridge hand to confirm that.
Driving the one ball to the same spot consistently is a good thing, which is what you are doing. Now you just have to figure out how to get the cue ball in position to pocket the one. You might want to try a tip (or more) of low and right to try to drive the cue ball across to the opposite side rail and back towards yourself.
I haven't seen Johnny Archer break lately, but his break was similar, where the one ball drove to the back rail and the cue ball went off the opposite side rail and back for position on the one. That break enabled him to run multiple racks in tournaments.
I think I understand. You're saying my practice strokes are on a more level plane than my final "break" stroke on the cue ball.
Josh
I think I understand. You're saying my practice strokes are on a more level plane than my final "break" stroke on the cue ball.
Josh
I don't see it. I think your final stroke is great and you stay down very well through that final stroke. You raise up after you hit the cue ball and lean into your bridge hand, which is what bends your shaft. It's all part of your timing, and it's what works for you. If you start messing with your timing, you will drive yourself nuts.
Just work on where you're striking the cue ball and see what different scenarios give you, position-wise.
I agree, if that's a typical break, and I also think bridging directly on the rail is more stable, especially for breaking. But if changing the bridge isn't an option there's still another possible solution - move the CB back a couple inches at a time until your CB hops the right distance to hit the 1 ball square.In addition to the excellent advice that was given, consider changing your bridge. What you are doing with that bridge is causing the CB to hop, it is then striking the head ball as it skips up off the table bed shown by the cueball being airborne when it strikes the rack.
This is taking some power away from the impact.
I don't see it. I think your final stroke is great and you stay down very well through that final stroke. You raise up after you hit the cue ball and lean into your bridge hand, which is what bends your shaft. It's all part of your timing, and it's what works for you. If you start messing with your timing, you will drive yourself nuts.
Just work on where you're striking the cue ball and see what different scenarios give you, position-wise.