Finish chipping

GoldCrown

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This area is chipping way too easily. That chip is one of 3. Finish chipped more in 2 weeks than any cue
I have over 20 years old. I strongly feel something is not right to begin with not the way the cue is being handled. Can the entire finish be sanded/stripped... I would finish the wood with oil instead of sending out for a refinish. The cue is a Schon Hoppe Tribute. Top
Cue bottom picture. Thanks. Frank
 

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qbilder

slower than snails
Silver Member
If it's new, send it back for refinish. The guys in the shop need to see it in person so they can figure out why it's happening, and change up their procedures accordingly. If it's new, then your cue isn't the only one. Schon has a great reputation and no doubt would like to know about this.
 

GoldCrown

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If it's new, send it back for refinish. The guys in the shop need to see it in person so they can figure out why it's happening, and change up their procedures accordingly. If it's new, then your cue isn't the only one. Schon has a great reputation and no doubt would like to know about this.

Hi. Not new. Has been cased for 3 years. However it's still abnormal. The forearm seems to be ok. Thanks for the info.
 
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mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Cue finish

Hi. Not new. Has been cased for 3 years. However it's still abnormal. The forearm seems to be ok. Thanks for the info.

The only way for the cue to retain its value is to keep the cue in the original condition as close as possible.
Allot of glass like finishes will not stick to a oily surface , if you strip the finish and use any type of wood oil or wax and you will never be able to use certain finishes on the cue ever.
 

GoldCrown

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The only way for the cue to retain its value is to keep the cue in the original condition as close as possible.
Allot of glass like finishes will not stick to a oily surface , if you strip the finish and use any type of wood oil or wax and you will never be able to use certain finishes on the cue ever.

Hi. It is a dedicated player. I'm not concerned with resale value at this stage. The oil finish is a thought. I'd consider a friction polish.
I might have it professionally refinished however if I want to DIY can the existing finish be sanded or is stripper used. I realize
the leather wrap cannot be touched by anything
 
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louieatienza

AzB Silver Member
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I don't think oil is the way to go... and once it hardens, yes, it would be difficult for a finish to adhere to it without removing wood (since the oil absorbs into the wood). It takes a bit of time to build up enough of an oil finish to get it to a point where it could be shined to a high gloss. If the forearm is fine then there maybe something on the wood that caused the finish to not adhere. Looks like ebony, which is not an oily wood and takes finish well.

If it's nitro it's not too difficult to drop fill and blend it and it would basically disappear. If it's catalyzed urethane, it could be drop-filled with CA, but there'd always be a faint telltale line at a certain angle...
 

GoldCrown

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I don't think oil is the way to go... and once it hardens, yes, it would be difficult for a finish to adhere to it without removing wood (since the oil absorbs into the wood). It takes a bit of time to build up enough of an oil finish to get it to a point where it could be shined to a high gloss. If the forearm is fine then there maybe something on the wood that caused the finish to not adhere. Looks like ebony, which is not an oily wood and takes finish well.

If it's nitro it's not too difficult to drop fill and blend it and it would basically disappear. If it's catalyzed urethane, it could be drop-filled with CA, but there'd always be a faint telltale line at a certain angle...

There are 3 of those blems.....meaning more are on the way....I'm not experienced with CA finishing....prefer not to work with it.
I do like this cue.....would like to keep the butt uniform and nicely finished looking.
 

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Has this cue had work done to it already? The wrap area does not look like Schon did it, which could mean the cue was refinished by someone other than Schon. That would explain the areas of finish lift, usually due to improper prep work. I have not seen a Schon with a leather wrap that has gaps like that and the fact that the finish was scored when they cut the seam. IMO, definitely not Schon work. I would recommend sending it to Schon and have a total refinish done, maybe even the wrap.
Dave

IMG_6148.jpg
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If the finish is original to Schon. It's not normal. Schon uses an epoxy finish last time I heard. If the finish was done by someone else then Schon will not work on it. Unless their policy has changed recently.
I don't think they'll even work on it if the wrap was changed.
 
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GoldCrown

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The cue was purchased new through a Schon distributor. It was not worked on unless there is something I do not know about. To move forward I prefer not to send back to Schon regardless as I would send to a reputable CueMaker for refinish and maybe change the wrap to a White/Black or White/Green. Was curious if I could strip/sand and apply a friction polish or something else.
As for Schon... The other cue pictured with the white/green wrap has an issue. The wrap has a gap..I can move the wrap slightly with my fingernail. I should have returned it immediately but choose to keep it. Their quality is not perfect. Not as it was. Nothing should be sent out with obvious flaws. Most of you guys would never let something leave your shop if there was an area that could be criticized.
I will continue to play with it for now (and I'm enjoying it). I can enjoy it as it's worn in.
 
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Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The cue was purchased new through a Schon distributor. It was not worked on unless there is something I do not know about. To move forward I prefer not to send back to Schon regardless as I would send to a reputable CueMaker for refinish and maybe change the wrap to a White/Black or White/Green. Was curious if I could strip/sand and apply a friction polish or something else.
As for Schon... The other cue pictured with the white/green wrap has an issue. The wrap has a gap..I can move the wrap slightly with my fingernail. I should have returned it immediately but choose to keep it. Their quality is not perfect. Not as it was. Nothing should be sent out with obvious flaws. Most of you guys would never let something leave your shop if there was an area that could be criticized.
Thanks for the the replies. I will continue to play with it for now (and I'm enjoying it). I can enjoy it as it's worn in.


The problem with you doing anything to it yourself is. The fear of contaminating the wood which could make it more difficult to repair properly. It's a tough call.
 

GoldCrown

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The easy answer that would give you the most confidence would be to send it to Proficient Billiards.

http://www.proficientbilliards.com/index.html

I've had them refinish two of my prized cues and highly recommend them without any hesitation.
I had stuff done by Scott. He's first class.... he does make me nervous with his shipping boxes(USPS triangles)
The problem with you doing anything to it yourself is. The fear of contaminating the wood which could make it more difficult to repair properly. It's a tough call.

I do understand and I'm
not in a hurry to touch it myself.
It's a beautiful cue. Should I assume the risk I'll accept it but I'll
most likely use for now and have it done right.
Thanks everyone for your replies and encouraging me not to
be so fast to kill a nice cue. Friends don't let friends ruin a Hoppe Tribute.
 
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GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
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Got worse. I did sand off the finish and don't like how it's going. I can leave it alone or have the cue restored. The entire section from the wrap down has to be replaced. Would want the Hoppe rings to be replaced and the polished weight bolt be used. I realize the wrap might have to be replaced. Is Proficient the place to use?
 

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rhinobywilhite

AzB Silver Member
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Send the cue to a competent cue maker. Have it completely refinished and the wrap replaced.

You will not regret doing this.
 

KJ Cues

Pro Cue Builder & Repair
Silver Member
You need to stop with the 'personal attempts' because you're only making the situation worse.
What started as a minor spot-repair has escalated into a complete butt-sleeve refinish.
Please, for the sake of the cue, send it to someone who knows what they're doing.....quickly.
 

pescadoman

Randy
Silver Member
You need to stop with the 'personal attempts' because you're only making the situation worse.
What started as a minor spot-repair has escalated into a complete butt-sleeve refinish.
Please, for the sake of the cue, send it to someone who knows what they're doing.....quickly.

One of the worst moments I've ever had was refinishing an Ebony Predator butt. Well, I thought it was Ebony. The finish had lifted so I stripped it, only to find out the "ebony" was paint.

What a disaster that turned into.
 

GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
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You need to stop with the 'personal attempts' because you're only making the situation worse.
What started as a minor spot-repair has escalated into a complete butt-sleeve refinish.
Please, for the sake of the cue, send it to someone who knows what they're doing.....quickly.
I'm past the DIY. I knew the consequence before I started.
Send the cue to a competent cue maker. Have it completely refinished and the wrap replaced.

You will not regret doing this.

That's where I'm at. But like I said. It is a daily player. I can use it like it is but I'm a pimpy guy and like nice cues. I think the butt sleeve has to be replaced.
 
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GoldCrown

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One of the worst moments I've ever had was refinishing an Ebony Predator butt. Well, I thought it was Ebony. The finish had lifted so I stripped it, only to find out the "ebony" was paint.

What a disaster that turned into.

Exactly what I have here. Under the finish not ebony. There is something wrong with the finish to begin with. It appears to be CA. Never had a finish peel
Iike this. I can scrape it off with my finger nail. Have no idea about the cue history. Bought it new. Seems to have been doctored up to begin with.
 
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louieatienza

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Exactly what I have here. Under the finish not ebony. There is something wrong with the finish to begin with. It appears to be CA. Never had a finish peel
Iike this. I can scrape it off with my finger nail. Have no idea about the cue history. Bought it new. Seems to have been doctored up to begin with.

If that was CA you'd never get it off just by sanding it like that. It could be anything. Some abrasive have an anti-clog coating (gray usually) for dry-sanding, that can stay on the part if not cleaned off. It could have been oil contamination from someone's hand. Could have been too smooth, not allowing the finish to take purchase. Whatever it is, any competent finisher can remove and respray that area no problem.
 
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