Lifting Gold Crown 1 off the floor

Madison

Registered
Getting new carpet installed in my pool room because I'm going to be putting my house on the market. I'm looking for ideas on how to avoid breaking the table (Gold Crown 1) down then resetting it up after the carpet, and then going through the breakdown/set up again after selling the house. That might be the only option, but looking for input from others to see if it is possible to jack up the table under the frame only high enough (e.g., 4") to have the pad and carpet installed - and not move the location of the table. If jacking/blocking is a feasible option could I jack up one end at a time or would I need to simultaneously jack up both ends together? Is it better to lift the table from the frame running along the sides vs. the frame on the end of the table (i.e., get one side off the floor first). I'm not sure if this approach leaves any good options for stretching the carpet after installation but I'l check with the carpet guys tomorrow. Any input/advice would be appreciated. Thanks
 

starr.collins

New member
I have a full sized Gold Crown 3 and was faced with the same situation.

I built a 2x6 box to set my small floor jack on to get some needed height and jacked up one end of the table on the heavy frame under the middle of the short rail. I slipped two flat furniture dollies under each foot then repeated this process on the other end of the table. The table was now easy to roll (with help) to the corner of the room while the carpet layers worked. We rolled it around as needed until the pad and carpet was laid. Then with the help of three other guys we rolled the table back in place removed the dollies one end at a time and replaced the table on the new carpet and pad. It may need to be adjusted as it settles but you won't need to break it down at all.


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Madison

Registered
I have a full sized Gold Crown 3 and was faced with the same situation.

I built a 2x6 box to set my small floor jack on to get some needed height and jacked up one end of the table on the heavy frame under the middle of the short rail. I slipped two flat furniture dollies under each foot then repeated this process on the other end of the table. The table was now easy to roll (with help) to the corner of the room while the carpet layers worked. We rolled it around as needed until the pad and carpet was laid. Then with the help of three other guys we rolled the table back in place removed the dollies one end at a time and replaced the table on the new carpet and pad. It may need to be adjusted as it settles but you won't need to break it down at all.


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Starr, Thanks a lot for the input. It was very helpful. I did what you did and it worked out great. Since I hadn't done this before I erred on the side of caution and jacked up the table from the frame under the end rail about an inch and a half at a time (enough to slide a 2x6 under the foot), then jacked the other end an inch and a half higher, going back and forth until I had the needed high of 5" to slide the moving dollies underneath the feet. My takeaways: make sure you get dollies that support the weight (mine were 650 lbs capacity from HF), and straighten the caster wheels in the direction you are pushing every time (at least if you are on carpet).
 
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