Renaissance Wax and acrylic

skins

skins

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Just a heads up, though Renaissance Wax is one of the best kept secrets for use on many things, cues included, I recommend not using it on acrylic...

The good news is it's not actually pitting the acrylic but the acrylic can reject the wax causing it to retract and create craters on itself. Renaissance Wax on any material can be difficult to remove so to fix the issue you need to re-polish the acrylic in the method you would normally from start to finish to remove the wax then re-shine the material.

Hope this helps
 

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thanks for the tip
i am not a cuemaker
so this might be a stupid question
but how do you know if a something has acrylic on it ?
 
skins

skins

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Dont use on bare acrylic commonly found in buttsleeves of some old Viking, Palmer, Paradise, Balabushka etc....

For those who may not know when acrylic was used back in the day it was just polished. The makers didn't spray finish over it. Perfect examples would be Palmer and Viking clear and colored sleeves as well Balabushka sleeves with the colored rings. Also the black used in the sleeve of those cues which many today think is ebony is just black acrylic. Some makers today like to use the old material to replicate the construction.

If there is finish sprayed over the acrylic, like some today like to do, then it't ok to use the wax. I happen to like mine bare and polished.....Easy fellas..:smilewinkgrin:
 
B

bbb

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skins said:
Dont use on bare acrylic commonly found in buttsleeves of some old Viking, Palmer, Paradise, Balabushka etc....

For those who may not know when acrylic was used back in the day it was just polished. The makers didn't spray finish over it. Perfect examples would be Palmer and Viking clear and colored sleeves as well Balabushka sleeves with the colored rings. Also the black used in the sleeve of those cues which many today think is ebony is just black acrylic. Some makers today like to use the old material to replicate the construction.

If there is finish sprayed over the acrylic, like some today like to do, then it't ok to use the wax. I happen to like mine bare and polished.....Easy fellas..:smilewinkgrin:
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thanks for the reply
its the USA ......you can like what you like.....:grin:
 
Chopdoc

Chopdoc

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skins said:
Dont use on bare acrylic commonly found in buttsleeves of some old Viking, Palmer, Paradise, Balabushka etc....

For those who may not know when acrylic was used back in the day it was just polished. The makers didn't spray finish over it. Perfect examples would be Palmer and Viking clear and colored sleeves as well Balabushka sleeves with the colored rings. Also the black used in the sleeve of those cues which many today think is ebony is just black acrylic. Some makers today like to use the old material to replicate the construction.

If there is finish sprayed over the acrylic, like some today like to do, then it't ok to use the wax. I happen to like mine bare and polished.....Easy fellas..:smilewinkgrin:
Click to expand...

I have several old cues with the black acrylic butt sleeve. I don't believe any of them originally had any finish on the acrylic, just as you say.

I have several old cues with acrylic windows. As you say, the window was just polished, no finish over it.

.
 
Type79

Type79

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Actually, Palmer applied finish to the back-ends of the 3rd Catalog cues.
 

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Chopdoc

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Type79 said:
Actually, Palmer applied finish to the back-ends of the 3rd Catalog cues.
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Admittedly, I don't have any Palmers.

As for cues with acrylic windows and/or butt sleeve I have National, Rich, Gandy, Viking, Mayer and a couple or three others.

Is this something that varied on Palmers? You cited third catalog. What about before that?
 
Type79

Type79

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I've only seen Third Catalog Palmers with finish on the butts, as well as the joints.
 
WildWing

WildWing

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Type79 said:
I've only seen Third Catalog Palmers with finish on the butts, as well as the joints.
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Actually, my second catalog Model C Palmer did have a finish over the brass joint, as original. Maybe not the same lacquer that was on the rest of the cue, but definitely a finish of some type. The nickel silver joints in that series did not have a finish on them.

I did have it restored, as you have with some. The restoration was no finish on that brass joint. It slowly tarnishes, only a bit, but polishes easily, just cloth, no need for anything harsh.

All the best,
WW
 
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Chopdoc

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WildWing said:
Actually, my second catalog Model C Palmer did have a finish over the brass joint, as original. Maybe not the same lacquer that was on the rest of the cue, but definitely a finish of some type. The nickel silver joints in that series did not have a finish on them.

I did have it restored, as you have with some. The restoration was no finish on that brass joint. It slowly tarnishes, only a bit, but polishes easily, just cloth, no need for anything harsh.

All the best,
WW
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Being that they did catalog, semi-custom, and full custom cues, I am sure there is some variability in such matters.

Just when I thought I have seen it all from Palmer something comes up I have not seen before. I am no expert though.

Certainly an interesting history.

Currently I am considering doing a full catalog collection of pre-viking Gandy cues. I haven't seen that done.

As for the matter of acrylics, I believe all of the old cues I have with it have no finish on it.
 
WildWing

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Chopdoc said:
Being that they did catalog, semi-custom, and full custom cues, I am sure there is some variability in such matters.

Just when I thought I have seen it all from Palmer something comes up I have not seen before. I am no expert though.

Certainly an interesting history.

Currently I am considering doing a full catalog collection of pre-viking Gandy cues. I haven't seen that done.

As for the matter of acrylics, I believe all of the old cues I have with it have no finish on it.
Click to expand...

Believe you are correct. With Palmer, second catalog or earlier, sometimes there was a finish over the joint, but it depended on whether it was brass or nickel silver. To keep the brass from tarnishing, sometimes a finish was applied. Such is true for later cuemakers as well. Generally no finish on the acrylic on the buttsleeve.

Other makers, I think generally they also did not put a finish on acrylic. Too hard to hold, and at that time, polyurethane was not generally used.

Pre-Viking Gandy cues would be an interesting display.

All the best,
WW
 
skins

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Michael Webb said:
Thanks Tim. Check out Novus, cleaner and polish.
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Hey Mike, 👍🏻🙂... for repairing a "mistake" in using RW thats what I hear is the stuff but for just keeping it looking good, I was talking with Pete T. about it and his recommendation is to use nothing unless you accidentally scratch. That acrylic is pretty tough stuff and any hand contact will actually keep it polished over time. I guess ya just have make sure you dont wear any rings. :wink:
 
skins

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Type79 said:
Actually, Palmer applied finish to the back-ends of the 3rd Catalog cues.
Click to expand...

Now you can see the just one difference between Georges cues and others.. This is a perfect example of what happened beck then. Todays prep methods and finishes may be better but I dont know if you can prevent finish lifting on such a hard material.
 
Michael Webb

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skins said:
Now you can see the just one difference between Georges cues and others.. This is a perfect example of what happened beck then. Todays prep methods and finishes may be better but I dont know if you can prevent finish lifting on such a hard material.
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It's not just finish. Prep work before finish means a lot.
picture.php
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GoldCrown

GoldCrown

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Michael Webb said:
Thanks Tim. Check out Novus, cleaner and polish.
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How about Flitz .... it’s a one step polish. The green stuff in the plastic black squeeze container. It’s for metal, plastic, fiberglass.
As for Novus... the 3,2,1, kit is excellent.
 
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WildWing

WildWing

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Since the discussion has gone to possible other methods of finishing acrylic, and I have talked to Tim about it, here's another possible suggestion. Use a pure sealant designed for a car finish. The benefit is you can layer them, and one application doesn't remove the other. A couple names I've used are Poorboy's EXP and Zaino. Only available online, as far as I know. The sealants in the stores usually contain cleaners, which don't layer very well.

The reason I know it works is I put it on my car headlight and tail light covers, and it looks brilliant. Granted, those are a different plastic compound, but I think the reasoning may be sound. However, also agree with Tim on constant hand application, as that keeps plastic nice and shiny as well.

All the best,
H
 
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