About sawing wood

JC

Coos Cues
Once again, it does not matter how you saw the wood - the minute you turn it you expose everything. .

Eric clarified that and I don't need it explained to me any more. It's all good. Just wondered if there are any tricks to sawing for maximum eye pleasure for round stock.

I now know there aren't. Carry on and thank you again.

Some people work their whole lives and are still broke. I don't find it odd that they can't manage their money even though they started learning to budget it just like I did and have been doing so forever. It will amaze you what folks don't know. It often amazes me what I don't know. Until I do.



JC
 

louieatienza

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Eric clarified that and I don't need it explained to me any more. It's all good. Just wondered if there are any tricks to sawing for maximum eye pleasure for round stock.

I now know there aren't. Carry on and thank you again.

Some people work their whole lives and are still broke. I don't find it odd that they can't manage their money even though they started learning to budget it just like I did and have been doing so forever. It will amaze you what folks don't know. It often amazes me what I don't know. Until I do.



JC

Well, what annoyed me was that this was explained in posts 2 and 3. I went into detail in post 11. And then in post 19. And each time you seemed to be dismissive, or insisting that there actually is a way to make something that's not there. If you ask somone for advice, and it's given, at least acknowledge it. Unfortunately I don't have the stash that Eric has - and if I did it would be resawn into 1/8" thick boards fro back and side sets!:grin-square:

As to your example, it's one thing to teach someone something. It's another thing to actually comprehend what's being taught. And yet, more importantly, take that knowledge and apply it. Folks don't know because they don't want to know, regardless of what they say to the contrary - because they want to hear what they want to hear and do what they want to do.
 

JC

Coos Cues
Well, what annoyed me was that this was explained in posts 2 and 3. I went into detail in post 11. And then in post 19. And each time you seemed to be dismissive, or insisting that there actually is a way to make something that's not there. If you ask somone for advice, and it's given, at least acknowledge it. Unfortunately I don't have the stash that Eric has - and if I did it would be resawn into 1/8" thick boards fro back and side sets!:grin-square:

As to your example, it's one thing to teach someone something. It's another thing to actually comprehend what's being taught. And yet, more importantly, take that knowledge and apply it. Folks don't know because they don't want to know, regardless of what they say to the contrary - because they want to hear what they want to hear and do what they want to do.

I thanked you sincerely earlier in this thread. I meant it.

I have nothing more to add.

Have a great evening!

JC
 

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
I went back and re read this thread and yes that's what I was talking about although it's not so distinct in the BEM photo you posted as in my piece. I was confused by the time you posted that for reasons I won't even try to explain.

Back to the original question I asked in post one. This thread got so far off track I almost forgot what prompted me to post my question and thought of new questions during the course of discussion. When you look at a nice straight maple shaft it will always have those two perfectly straight lines running from end to end on opposite sides where the longest tight grains come together on the edge in a tight swirling pattern but straight as an arrow. I don't know what to call this. I call it the "taint" because that's what it reminds me of. All I really wanted to know was if you sawed the wood differently could you alter the appearance of the "taint" so it doesn't run in such a straight line from end to end and catch your eye as a straight line. Thus the title of my thread "sawing" not "eyes"

Joey said grain over figure which makes sense but coring sort of eliminates this concern. Eric mocked me and I don't think he even understood what I was asking. Which is ok too. Sarcasm is good. Sorry everyone, I should have been clearer. Thanks for all your thoughts.

Here is a closer up photo showing the "taint" of this wood that I was asking about originally. Whether sawing differently could alter it's path from end to end. If I had some bigger chunks of this wood or any straight grained wood I would have just sawed them and found out for myself but I thought asking experts would be cheaper. I still think I thought right.:smile:



View attachment 478169

JC

I don't have one of those fancy apps where you circle stuff and write about in the picture like some so I just took your original photo and cropped it down to where mostly only the "taint" was showing in the photo I posted. If you go back and compare the taint lines you'll find they're identical. That's why when you said "no" and posted a different picture I was even more confused.
I should have mentioned it was a cropped photo of what you originally posted.
Any piece of wood from anywhere you cut whether quarter, flat, rift sawn you will find those end grain lines along the sides after you turn it round.
Some woods are more pronounced than others but if you go back and look at any piece you've turned round you're sure to find them.
The dark woods like ebony you may have to hold in the light at an angle just right but they're in there.
Burls can get all convoluted because of the way it grows.
You would think that they might be 180 degrees apart on a round but that's not always the case.

Hopes this clears up my picture of your picture.
 
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JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
These might be ugly to some , but they're gonna be cues next year.
 

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louieatienza

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I thanked you sincerely earlier in this thread. I meant it.

I have nothing more to add.

Have a great evening!

JC

It's tough sometimes communicating over a forum as opposed to face-to-face. I didn't take your confusion of your "issue" as genuine, so I didn't take the thanks seriously. But, you're welcome.

Your question did morph from trying to effect more birds eye than what was already on the wood by somehow cutting it, to the "taint" in the quartersawn side. Don't know what the correct term is for it. But it will show up on the quartered side. Pretty spectacular in white oak, where it's called ray flecks.
 
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youngstownkid

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Look at it as hitting turbulence while flying. The eyes are basically little knots, with ripples of differing densities surrounding each eye, and as a core drill or reamer cuts thru, it's hitting those different densities on all sides, making it harder to cut cleanly, and follow straight. Coring curly maple is very similar. I haven't used a tapered reamer such as you have, I use a stepped core process using 2 different gundrills, and it does take longer to do with birdseye and figured maple than it does for, like ebony. The drill always wants to bounce/jiggle in highly figured maples if you go to fast.

Dave



I experienced this in the first and only piece of BEM that I’ve cored and didn’t understand why. Now I know, thanks.


MM
 
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