Comments on Poolology

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Dan White

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This post is intended to record my first impressions with Brian Crist's new aiming method, Poolology. I have no delusions that this will be a comprehensive review, or even a particularly useful one. I should also say that some specific questions have to be addressed by pm since you really should buy the book if you want to learn the method. In my case, these questions are just about some details that are only for my interest. The actual instructions couldn't be much easier.

Let me give you the upshot: This thing is fantastic! Brian has taken fractional aiming, which has been around a long time, and the diamond system, which has also been around a long time, and married the two together. Has this been done by anybody before? Beats me, but if so then it is a well kept secret, which then also means it probably hasn't been discovered before.

It seems like Brian's discovery of this method came over a period of years in which he made incremental discoveries that resulted in a simplified, easily usable aiming system or method. I think a real moment of inspiration for Brian was to recognize that the same method could not be used for 100% of the table, and that it had to be broken down into three sections, each with a slightly different numbering system on the rails. It would have been easy for him not to recognize this, but rather to conclude that his method only worked for say 60% or so of the table.

Why beginners should learn this method:

Well, I am a big believer in the "hit a millions balls method" which is a bit of a misnomer. I believe HAMB is not really that many balls, but that is besides the point. I believe beginners can use this system as a first determination as to the correct fraction to use. As time goes on, the player will begin to see the shots automatically. I believe this "crutch" may very well acclerate the HAMB learning process.

Why advanced players should learn this method:

Does a pro player need Poolology? Probably not, but even then just knowing the relationships presented in the book are probably good things to keep in the back of your mind. There is, however, a big difference between a pro and an advanced player. I consider myself an advanced player, a runout player, like many of us. I aim by "just seeing the shot" but I will say that if I had a weakness it would be back cuts. Most everybody has trouble with these shots. After about 5 minutes of putting balls on the table and reviewing the math, I started hitting back cuts. I hit some naturally and I hit others using Poolology. I missed a couple using just feel, and I believe I made either every shot or most every shot using Poolology. I had been using the system for 5 minutes... 5 minutes.

Many of us like to use reference shots here and there. For instance, you may have a particular place to put the cue ball in the kitchen for spot shots. You know you will have a half ball hit from there. We all know the 90 degree rule and the 30 degree rule. I play only straight pool. I recall one time thinking how it would be nice to know for sure when I have a half ball hit for side of the rack break shots. These shots are generally hit harder than others, so any little advantage is welcome. Well now I know exactly when I have half ball hits as determined mathematically rather than through experience. It's a nice crutch to have when making a pressure shot.

So if you are of the opinion that a book is worth its value if you learn one thing from it, definitely buy this book. It's $10 for an electronic copy... big deal.

As Brian says, a vast majority of the shots are made in Zone A. I don't think I'll need the system for Zone B, and I'll probably use it only for back cuts in Zone C. I haven't read about side pocket shots or banks yet, so I'll save that for an update.

You do have to be careful to know where Zone A ends and Zone C begins. I found that shots all of a sudden didn't look right, and the system didn't work. I looked at the diagram again and realized I was just outside of the zone.

I'm looking for a weakness but haven't found one yet. As long as you can see 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 fractions and are able to aim at and between these locations with a good stroke, the ball will go in on a normal table. I can't vouch for how it works on a crazy tight table, but on my 9' table with 4.75" pockets it works well.

Final fun thought: The system only uses the rails for the math. This means you don't need to look at the pocket. It is kind of fun to pocket balls without worrying where the pocket is, but I don't think that is a good habit to get into. After all, the idea is to train the brain to see the shots without needing the system, and that can only be done by focusing on the location of the pocket.

I guess that's enough for now. Hope this is useful to someone, and feel free to add any of your own comments if you have been using Poolology.
 

BeiberLvr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
See how much better you can understand someone's work when you aren't cheap and actually spend money on the product.
 

duckie

GregH
Silver Member
So, in your comprehensive review.......how did it work on two,three ball combos, CB rail first, carom shots, one to three rail banks, one to three rail kicks, any form of safety play where there is no intent to pocket the ball?
 

Neil

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So, in your comprehensive review.......how did it work on two,three ball combos, CB rail first, carom shots, one to three rail banks, one to three rail kicks, any form of safety play where there is no intent to pocket the ball?

Greg, you like bikes. How well does that bike work when you need to haul some lumber back home from Home Depot? Or want to travel to another continent? Or want to go from one island to another? Can that bike haul a cargo, travel in the air for long distances, travel on the water?

Since that bike seems so limited in it's use, what good is it? Why do you waste your time with it?
 

Dan White

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So, in your comprehensive review.......how did it work on two,three ball combos, CB rail first, carom shots, one to three rail banks, one to three rail kicks, any form of safety play where there is no intent to pocket the ball?

Did you read my post? Just curious. The first few words include "first impressions." I do not know the answer to your questions, but I believe Poolology was not intended to solve the kinds of shots you describe. It was intended to help with the other 99% of the shots that come up in a game. There is a section on banking, but I don't know if there is anything beyond that.
 

BeiberLvr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
greg, you like bikes. How well does that bike work when you need to haul some lumber back home from home depot? Or want to travel to another continent? Or want to go from one island to another? Can that bike haul a cargo, travel in the air for long distances, travel on the water?

Since that bike seems so limited in it's use, what good is it? Why do you waste your time with it?

lol. Poty
 

Renegade_56

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This post is intended to record my first impressions with Brian Crist's new aiming method, Poolology. I have no delusions that this will be a comprehensive review, or even a particularly useful one. I should also say that some specific questions have to be addressed by pm since you really should buy the book if you want to learn the method. In my case, these questions are just about some details that are only for my interest. The actual instructions couldn't be much easier.

Let me give you the upshot: This thing is fantastic! Brian has taken fractional aiming, which has been around a long time, and the diamond system, which has also been around a long time, and married the two together. Has this been done by anybody before? Beats me, but if so then it is a well kept secret, which then also means it probably hasn't been discovered before.

It seems like Brian's discovery of this method came over a period of years in which he made incremental discoveries that resulted in a simplified, easily usable aiming system or method. I think a real moment of inspiration for Brian was to recognize that the same method could not be used for 100% of the table, and that it had to be broken down into three sections, each with a slightly different numbering system on the rails. It would have been easy for him not to recognize this, but rather to conclude that his method only worked for say 60% or so of the table.

Why beginners should learn this method:

Well, I am a big believer in the "hit a millions balls method" which is a bit of a misnomer. I believe HAMB is not really that many balls, but that is besides the point. I believe beginners can use this system as a first determination as to the correct fraction to use. As time goes on, the player will begin to see the shots automatically. I believe this "crutch" may very well acclerate the HAMB learning process.

Why advanced players should learn this method:

Does a pro player need Poolology? Probably not, but even then just knowing the relationships presented in the book are probably good things to keep in the back of your mind. There is, however, a big difference between a pro and an advanced player. I consider myself an advanced player, a runout player, like many of us. I aim by "just seeing the shot" but I will say that if I had a weakness it would be back cuts. Most everybody has trouble with these shots. After about 5 minutes of putting balls on the table and reviewing the math, I started hitting back cuts. I hit some naturally and I hit others using Poolology. I missed a couple using just feel, and I believe I made either every shot or most every shot using Poolology. I had been using the system for 5 minutes... 5 minutes.

Many of us like to use reference shots here and there. For instance, you may have a particular place to put the cue ball in the kitchen for spot shots. You know you will have a half ball hit from there. We all know the 90 degree rule and the 30 degree rule. I play only straight pool. I recall one time thinking how it would be nice to know for sure when I have a half ball hit for side of the rack break shots. These shots are generally hit harder than others, so any little advantage is welcome. Well now I know exactly when I have half ball hits as determined mathematically rather than through experience. It's a nice crutch to have when making a pressure shot.

So if you are of the opinion that a book is worth its value if you learn one thing from it, definitely buy this book. It's $10 for an electronic copy... big deal.

As Brian says, a vast majority of the shots are made in Zone A. I don't think I'll need the system for Zone B, and I'll probably use it only for back cuts in Zone C. I haven't read about side pocket shots or banks yet, so I'll save that for an update.

You do have to be careful to know where Zone A ends and Zone C begins. I found that shots all of a sudden didn't look right, and the system didn't work. I looked at the diagram again and realized I was just outside of the zone.

I'm looking for a weakness but haven't found one yet. As long as you can see 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 fractions and are able to aim at and between these locations with a good stroke, the ball will go in on a normal table. I can't vouch for how it works on a crazy tight table, but on my 9' table with 4.75" pockets it works well.

Final fun thought: The system only uses the rails for the math. This means you don't need to look at the pocket. It is kind of fun to pocket balls without worrying where the pocket is, but I don't think that is a good habit to get into. After all, the idea is to train the brain to see the shots without needing the system, and that can only be done by focusing on the location of the pocket.

I guess that's enough for now. Hope this is useful to someone, and feel free to add any of your own comments if you have been using Poolology.

See, you can be a good boy when you want to. I'll fill you in on something, I could write the exact same review about that other system you like to talk about.
 

BilliardsAbout

BondFanEvents.com
Silver Member
Brian did a good job with this work. It is an intriguing volume and will help players see common cut angles and dissect more difficult cuts, too. Good stuff!
 

bbb

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
i have bought poololgy and like dan use it more for back cuts since i am comfortable on most other shots
i think there is something in it at all levels
for beginners its an easy way to learn to see the cut angles
for more advanced players its just another tool in the tool box
if you are not a pivot aimer there is nothing new to learn except to be sure you have good fundamentals since if you cant hit the cue ball where you think you are aiming
NO SYSTEM WORKS (jmho)
for me it was worth way more than what i paid
i have never seen a system explain the cut angles described in such a straight forward
manner
highly recommended
is it the BEST system out there?
NO....because there is no best system for everybody just what works best for you (again jmho )
 

duckie

GregH
Silver Member
In 8 ball, there is a strategy called block the pocket. Your opponent blocks a pocket with one of his balls.

This can make pocketing the last of your balls and the 8 ball difficult, especially if they have blocked more than one pocket and they have most of their balls on the table.

The options are:
Make their ball and follow it in.
Move their ball and block the pocket with yours.
Go rail first with the CB into the back side of their ball into the pocket.
Your ball off their ball into the pocket.

Maybe a few more depending on the ball layout.

Each one of those options requires precision execution. Part of that is placing the OB exactly where you want and not just anywhere.

The question is what was the criteria you used for a successful shot?

The ball just anywhere in the pocket?

The ball went exactly where you wanted in the pocket?

Margin of error is always overlooked and which is why most think system works.....the ball went in the pocket.........which is not the same as the ball went into the pocket exactly where I wanted.

Different standard in accuracy.......something never discussed about most systems being sold on here.

How accurate is it?

Or does accuracy come from hitting a million balls which includes practice and competition?
 

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
In 8 ball, there is a strategy called block the pocket. Your opponent blocks a pocket with one of his balls.

This can make pocketing the last of your balls and the 8 ball difficult, especially if they have blocked more than one pocket and they have most of their balls on the table.

The options are:
Make their ball and follow it in.
Move their ball and block the pocket with yours.
Go rail first with the CB into the back side of their ball into the pocket.
Your ball off their ball into the pocket.

Maybe a few more depending on the ball layout.

Each one of those options requires precision execution. Part of that is placing the OB exactly where you want and not just anywhere.

The question is what was the criteria you used for a successful shot?

The ball just anywhere in the pocket?

The ball went exactly where you wanted in the pocket?

Margin of error is always overlooked and which is why most think system works.....the ball went in the pocket.........which is not the same as the ball went into the pocket exactly where I wanted.

Different standard in accuracy.......something never discussed about most systems being sold on here.

How accurate is it?

Or does accuracy come from hitting a million balls which includes practice and competition?

Like this:
https://youtu.be/XK7Fa2tw8qI
 

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
You are wrong when you state on your video that no aiming system can give you that kind of accuracy. There are more aiming systems out there than you are aware of.;)


Oh.....I am aware of them. I just doubt any of them, without putting in the time to developing a feel for the system or excellent visual skills, can successfully pull these types of shots off with consistency.
 

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
Oh.....I am aware of them. I just doubt any of them, without putting in the time to developing a feel for the system or excellent visual skills, can successfully pull these types of shots off with consistency.

(But I could very easily be wrong! Lol. I'm just speaking from my experience.)
 

JB Cases

www.jbcases.com
Silver Member
You make a statement at 2:41that it is virtually impossible to use an aiming system to line up for the shot you are facing. I disagree and here is why....

You can use some aiming systems to get you to the center pocket aim and then easily adjust to the left or right of center as needed once you have the accurate center pocket baseline to go from.

Regarding duckies absurd points her has no idea what a toolbox is and how tools are used.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

JB Cases

www.jbcases.com
Silver Member
And one more thing about combinations....I used CTE to line up combos by using the blocking ball as the cue ball and then ghost ball to the blocking ball contact point. I have pretty good success with that method since I figured it out.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

Dan White

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I had someone mention that it looks like too much math and trouble on every shot to use Poolology. This is someone who has purchased the book but not yet read it. Here's my experience so far. Bear in mind I'm only using Poolology in Zone A for now, which covers many of the more common shots. I'm also using it more than I really need to because I want to really learn the system and give it a fair try. Use the following 9 ball diagram:

So I just made the 6 and left myself this. Using Poolology here's how my thinking goes:

OK, left myself a little funny on the 7 and need to back cut it in the corner. I know immediately that it will be greater than a half ball hit. While walking to the cue ball I look at the 7 and immediately get my first number. When I get behind the cue ball I mentally draw a straight line between the cb and ob and through the bottom rail. (Incidentally, I do this anyway when I play naturally, so I found Poolology, or you might even think of it as "Poolometry," a natural fit for me to try.

Anyway, since you know your first number, you also know the numbers to look for on the bottom rail. In other words, after I find my first number I can determine my second number before I even get behind the cue ball. When I line up the two balls, this will determine my second number on the foot rail and I can compare the actual line up to the number I have calculated. In this case since it is clearly greater than a half ball hit, I am really only looking for one number to compare to. So I already know it will be something approximating a 1/4 hit, and so I already have the number 24 in my head. The cb-ob line crosses the foot rail at a value not that close to 1/4 and really not that close to 1/2 ball. It is in between. That's all you need to know. So now I'm aiming half way between a 1/2 and 1/4 ball hit. Blam! it will go in.

If you have crazy tight pockets, you can just refine your math. OK, its between 1/2 ball and 1/4 hit, but the math puts me a little closer to 1/2 ball than 1/4 ball. If you need that added amount of precision, then you'll be aiming between 1/2 and 1/4 ball, but a little closer to 1/2 than 1/4.

The point I want to get across is that once you get familiar with the math, it is pretty automatic. In fact, Brian shows a method where you don't need to do any math at all. You look at the rail position of the ob first, then you can simply look at the rail and mentally chop it into the appropriate sections without using any numbers at all. Pretty cool. For me, the math is quicker.

Hope that clears it up.
 

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BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
.........

The point I want to get across is that once you get familiar with the math, it is pretty automatic. In fact, Brian shows a method where you don't need to do any math at all. You look at the rail position of the ob first, then you can simply look at the rail and mentally chop it into the appropriate sections without using any numbers at all. Pretty cool. For me, the math is quicker.

Hope that clears it up.

Some folks struggle or freak out with the simplest math, like splitting a 2-digit number in half. I get that. My best friend is one of those guys, but I still love him. Most people, like Dan and many others, find the system to be simple and user-friendly. Now, if you're the type of player that has perfect practice strokes, then a weird twist or pivot off the aim line on the final stroke toward the CB, you will struggle with Poolology. Actually, you'll struggle with any system because you'll have to make it work for your wonky stroke, which could take a while. I've seen some wacked up strokes in my time, and I'm​ always amazed to see how well some of these players pocket balls. It's an attestment to just how incredible the human brain is when it comes to programming itself through repetition.
 

fathomblue

Rusty Shackleford
Silver Member
I had someone mention that it looks like too much math and trouble on every shot to use Poolology. This is someone who has purchased the book but not yet read it. Here's my experience so far. Bear in mind I'm only using Poolology in Zone A for now, which covers many of the more common shots. I'm also using it more than I really need to because I want to really learn the system and give it a fair try. Use the following 9 ball diagram:

So I just made the 6 and left myself this. Using Poolology here's how my thinking goes:

OK, left myself a little funny on the 7 and need to back cut it in the corner. I know immediately that it will be greater than a half ball hit. While walking to the cue ball I look at the 7 and immediately get my first number. When I get behind the cue ball I mentally draw a straight line between the cb and ob and through the bottom rail. (Incidentally, I do this anyway when I play naturally, so I found Poolology, or you might even think of it as "Poolometry," a natural fit for me to try.

Anyway, since you know your first number, you also know the numbers to look for on the bottom rail. In other words, after I find my first number I can determine my second number before I even get behind the cue ball. When I line up the two balls, this will determine my second number on the foot rail and I can compare the actual line up to the number I have calculated. In this case since it is clearly greater than a half ball hit, I am really only looking for one number to compare to. So I already know it will be something approximating a 1/4 hit, and so I already have the number 24 in my head. The cb-ob line crosses the foot rail at a value not that close to 1/4 and really not that close to 1/2 ball. It is in between. That's all you need to know. So now I'm aiming half way between a 1/2 and 1/4 ball hit. Blam! it will go in.

If you have crazy tight pockets, you can just refine your math. OK, its between 1/2 ball and 1/4 hit, but the math puts me a little closer to 1/2 ball than 1/4 ball. If you need that added amount of precision, then you'll be aiming between 1/2 and 1/4 ball, but a little closer to 1/2 than 1/4.

The point I want to get across is that once you get familiar with the math, it is pretty automatic. In fact, Brian shows a method where you don't need to do any math at all. You look at the rail position of the ob first, then you can simply look at the rail and mentally chop it into the appropriate sections without using any numbers at all. Pretty cool. For me, the math is quicker.

Hope that clears it up.

So, just based on what I see, you would divide 32 by 24? That would be 1.33333, so......is that somehow a 1/3rd ball hit?

I mean, it kinda makes sense. As in, if you did the math and it produced a value of 1.0......its a full ball hit.

Am I in the ballpark?
 
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Dan White

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So, just based on what I see, you would divide 32 by 24? That would be 1.33333, so......is that somehow a 1/3rd ball hit?

I mean, it kinda makes sense. As in, if you did the math and it produced a value of 1.0......its a full ball hit.

Am I in the ballpark?

Not really. That isn't the math you need to do. Just get the online book for $10. You'll be glad you did.
 
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