Why we miss banks: short bank part two

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
Another good video tip.

Years ago (maybe 15+) I had a set of mirrors that spanned the length of the rails -- each mirror was about 1/2 in high and fit snuggly under the cushion. It was a great practice tool for kicks and banks. Not sure if I sold them or gave them away, but they were cool.

Another tool to use for banks is a simple camera stand/tripod. Place it exactly where the mirror image of the intended pocket would be, like this....the stand is 50" from the inside of the cushion, straight out from the side pocket. Shoot the ob toward the stand.

picture.php
 

One Pocket John

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks Mohrt and Brian.

Have been using the spot on the wall (chair, table, beer bottle, glass of water, whatever) for a couple of decades. I was first introduced to this system from watching Grady Mathews video's.

This system is great for 1,2,3 or 4 rail shots. Knowing how to use the system is a must for a one pocket player. :)

In my favorite pool room, if you were aware of this system you could set up a dead 2 or 3 rail shot and then follow that line off of the first rail hit you would see a black dot on the wall. I always carry a black felt tip marker with me. :)

John
 
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mohrt

Student of the Game
Silver Member
Yes the “spot on the wall”. Usually the distance aspect is glossed over. For one-rail banks, the distance to the spot is crucial. I explain how to measure visually in the video. For a two-rail bank, distance can be estimated, but should still be close. On a three-rail bank or higher, the convergence is such that anything close is going to be quite accurate. Distance calculation on all banks is distance the OB travels from first rail to the pocket.
 

bbb

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
thanks for your time and effort mohrt for sharing your knowledge
 

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
Yes the “spot on the wall”. Usually the distance aspect is glossed over. For one-rail banks, the distance to the spot is crucial. I explain how to measure visually in the video. For a two-rail bank, distance can be estimated, but should still be close. On a three-rail bank or higher, the convergence is such that anything close is going to be quite accurate. Distance calculation on all banks is distance the OB travels from first rail to the pocket.

I thought you were showing the mirror method, where the distance to the spot is measured exactly in accordance with the playing surface width or length, o r both when it comes to marking a 2-rail or 3-rail wall/room spot. You lost me with the statement in bold.:eek:
 

mohrt

Student of the Game
Silver Member
I don’t see anything in bold. However, “mirror method” and “spot on the wall” are nearly identical concepts when referring to one rail banks. You are basically aiming at the mirror pocket. A two or three rail bank is technically the same thing, it’s just that the mirrored pocket is on a table flipped a number of times equal to the banks.
 

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
I don’t see anything in bold. However, “mirror method” and “spot on the wall” are nearly identical concepts when referring to one rail banks. You are basically aiming at the mirror pocket. A two or three rail bank is technically the same thing, it’s just that the mirrored pocket is on a table flipped a number of times equal to the banks.

I put your "distance calculation" in bold. Didnt understand exactly what you meant with that statement about the ball distance traveled off the first rail.

But yes the spot on the wall is the mirror method.
For 2 and 3 rail banks the spot would be a full table length away. Pretty neat if you have a large enough space to work it out.
 

mohrt

Student of the Game
Silver Member
So take a three rail bank. After contact with first bank, ball travels to 2nd bank, then 3rd bank, then pocket. Distance to “spot” is equal to ball travel distance from rail 1-2-3-pocket.
 

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
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So take a three rail bank. After contact with first bank, ball travels to 2nd bank, then 3rd bank, then pocket. Distance to “spot” is equal to ball travel distance from rail 1-2-3-pocket.

Got it. But without a specific direction the distance is of no value. I'd much rather measure 100" out then 100" over and mark that spot with chair or table leg or a lamp, or something on the wall if that's where the wall is.
 

mohrt

Student of the Game
Silver Member
Got it. But without a specific direction the distance is of no value. I'd much rather measure 100" out then 100" over and mark that spot with chair or table leg or a lamp, or something on the wall if that's where the wall is.

hmm? You have the direction, from the 2-1 bank reference. As for distance, as I was saying earlier for a single bank the distance is crucial. For three rail banks, the distance can be estimated bit more, because if you are a foot too near or far it's going to be a negligible difference, so basically something on the wall about three tables away is going to suffice.

For those single rail banks, you need to be very close. One way to determine how far off you are is to do this: stand directly in front of the pocket you are banking to, then draw a line in your mind through the opposite pocket to that "spot", or mirror pocket. Remember that spot. Now go find a 2-1 bank to that same pocket and line up to the "spot" again. You can also use two 2-1 banks, just like I did in the video. Do they hit the same spot? if so, you got the distance perfect. If not, split the difference.
 

mohrt

Student of the Game
Silver Member
Got it. But without a specific direction the distance is of no value. I'd much rather measure 100" out then 100" over and mark that spot with chair or table leg or a lamp, or something on the wall if that's where the wall is.

I think this would be easier to explain as: the distance from CB to the spot is the same as the total distance the CB travels to the intended pocket. I like to picture "flipped" tables, or mirror tables, to the mirror pocket (or "spot") to estimate the distance.
 

Patrick Johnson

Fish of the Day
Silver Member
hmm? You have the direction, from the 2-1 bank reference. As for distance, as I was saying earlier for a single bank the distance is crucial. For three rail banks, the distance can be estimated bit more, because if you are a foot too near or far it's going to be a negligible difference, so basically something on the wall about three tables away is going to suffice.

For those single rail banks, you need to be very close. One way to determine how far off you are is to do this: stand directly in front of the pocket you are banking to, then draw a line in your mind through the opposite pocket to that "spot", or mirror pocket. Remember that spot. Now go find a 2-1 bank to that same pocket and line up to the "spot" again. You can also use two 2-1 banks, just like I did in the video. Do they hit the same spot? if so, you got the distance perfect. If not, split the difference.
Another way to use the mirror image is to stand where the "spot on the wall" would be and look back at the table. Here's a post from a couple years ago about that: http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=412879&highlight=triangulate

pj
chgo
 

mohrt

Student of the Game
Silver Member
That’s a good tip, you can triangulate from two or more lines pretty quickly that way. Not sure how useful it could be for two+ rail banks?
 
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