All Finishes Pros and Cons

I'm a call maker and have been using CA finish's for many years. So I'm a strong believer in the durability and shine of CA. I've had many folks scared to take them into the woods hunting then later tell me they couldn't believe the durability.

I also work at an automotive plant and work in the paint shop. We've left the 1k clear and gone to 2k... the finish difference is unbelievable, I didn't know there could be that much difference in the finish's. To see the definition change it is in the reflection almost mirror like. From a blurry but seemingly clear shine but reflected image is blurry to high definition. Is anyone using 2k clear... on the safety side the MSDS is a nightmare. Breathing aparatise (pumped in air to a hooded technician) and other PPE (Tyvek suit, gloves face shield) are required in a booth that exchanges air volume in the booth (if memory serves) every 2 mins. Then a 15 min safety window before anyone is alowed in without breathing masks.

One of my calls with a CA finish.

cueman said:

As we are talking about Super Glue finishes let me tell you what my son did for a little while with CA glue. He would put on super glue base coats then sand until smooth. Then wipe the cue with olive oil and go right over it with a few coats of super glue and repeat the process until he had a nice thick finish. That was some of the best super glue work I have ever seen. I told him I thought it was a bad idea and and that the finish would lift. But it held up. On all accounts I guess I was wrong even though it went against everything I thought about finishing principals.

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Someone told me once that using a thin, clear oil (such as mineral oil..though I have used Olive Oil as well at one time) would help to slow down the dry time of the glue. My assumption was that it would give the glue more time to "flatten out" on the rotating cue. Then again, he also told me to use the thinnest CA I could find and put it on with a paper towel. Glad I was set straight.

DD Custom Cues said:

I know you probably not willing to share your knowledge but if you are I'm all ears. And would be very thankful. Thinking of switching to a UV but I think I would be happier with your method. I've seen your cues and you do a nice job.

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Thanks I don't have any secrets, but would prefer to not write up a tutorial online. If you're ever through TN & want to see it, I'd gladly show you what I do.

On another note, I'm glad to this thread produce some interesting conversation. It's a pleasant change of pace.

qbilder said:

Thanks I don't have any secrets, but would prefer to not write up a tutorial online. If you're ever through TN & want to see it, I'd gladly show you what I do.

On another note, I'm glad to this thread produce some interesting conversation. It's a pleasant change of pace.

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Trust me it's worth the trip. I learned more in a few hours than I could have ever imagined and Eric is one of the nicest people you could ever meet in the industry.

qbilder said:

Thanks I don't have any secrets, but would prefer to not write up a tutorial online. If you're ever through TN & want to see it, I'd gladly show you what I do.

On another note, I'm glad to this thread produce some interesting conversation. It's a pleasant change of pace.

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Thanks Eric. If I ever make it down there I will definitely be calling. I agree it nice to see people tell what they and not get bashed for it.

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Bumlak said:

Someone told me once that using a thin, clear oil (such as mineral oil..though I have used Olive Oil as well at one time) would help to slow down the dry time of the glue. My assumption was that it would give the glue more time to "flatten out" on the rotating cue. Then again, he also told me to use the thinnest CA I could find and put it on with a paper towel. Glad I was set straight.

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Mineral oil does not work as well as any of the other natural oils Olive, vegetable, etc
I don't have enough of a track record to determine what will yellow over time.

Mario

Chopdoc said:

That's interesting. And counter-intuitive as you indicate.

Makes me think something was happening chemically between the oil and the CA.


.

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"something" does....it becomes a type of elastomer

JoeyInCali said:

Did he say what kind of oil?

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any oil with lipids..thats how the elastomer is formed.

I work with spray polyurethane water based with resins free and not yellowing, its very hard also...any bad experiencies with it?
I tried with ca and epoxy but I need more hours for good results.

I tried with more water based and not all is good, its true but if you have a good product water based without resins for not yellowing so its a very good option...I hate dangerous products

BHQ said:

auto clearcoat
cue base-coated with clear epoxy MAX1618

Pro's
1) easy to spray ***
2) easy to sand & buff
3) not brittle like ca, will dent rather than chip or crack
4) high gloss with quality clear & good procedures

Con's
1) toxic of course
2) takes longer than an hour to do ( if that's what matters to you )
3) costs more than a couple bucks worth of CA ( if that's what matters to you )

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I agree with BHQ ... of all the finishes I ever used, Automotive ClearCoat was my hands down favorite.