Project Tomahawk ferrule material.

TILT9 said:

ordered my first "6 pack" of ferrules , thanks Kelly.​

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dzcues said:

First, let me state that I have no stake in this endeavor. I was asked to try PH & review it. Since good ferrule materials are hard to find & usually require some sort of compromise, I'm always on the lookout for something better. Bottom line: I like PH. Not everybody will - especially if you like the hard crack of LBM - but it's a new alternative out there that shows great promise.

I have 4 shafts in the field getting regular abuse in the hopes of finding some weakness in PH. The players know that I'm testing its durability & were asked to work it hard. Those 4 are uncapped & threaded 3/8-16 through. Shaft diameters range from 12.6 to 13 mm. Players have been breaking & jumping with no issues at all.

I also have:
- 2 shafts (12.75 mm) that have 3/8" uncapped tenons similar to the old Meucci design.
- 1 shaft (capped) with 3/8-16 threads
- 2 Predator replacement ferrules (capped) with .400" tenon & 12.75 mm shafts.
- 1 Poison replacement ferrule (capped) with .410" tenon & 13 mm shaft.
- 1 Falcon replacement shaft (uncapped) with 3/8-16 threads.

I have glued the ferrule on using slow epoxy, fast epoxy & titebond with no issues. Tips remain glued solidly in place with a variety of CA's.

Regarding machining PH: As mentioned, it cuts like PVC & first impressions weren't promising. My first thought was "import ferrule material" but I promised to try it. Drilling PH can cause it to melt if you run it too fast, use dull tooling or try drilling too deep. Use a lead drill 1st, then follow up with the tap drill. This isn't a problem but I'm giving fair warning: treat it like the thermoset it is.

I live tool my threads but have tried tapping with no problems at all. If you have any problems (I didn't) a drop of water would be all you need to lubricate your drill or tap. I used no lube while live tooling, drilling or tapping my ferrules.

I used hi rake carbide inserts to machine the OD of the installed ferrules & it cuts cleanly but leaves tooling marks per your feed rate. FRESH sandpaper cleans it up easily & it polishes nicely, too.

Despite its apparent softness, it gives a nice hit: solid but without the harshness of LBM. It is impervious to chalk. So far, I have not had a failure despite being uncapped & having thin walls. I think it will be a very good candidate for LD ferrule replacements, too.

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