Steel Wool

Pidge

Pidge

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Anyone ever used it on a cue? I bought some fine steel wool last week to smooth and buffer something in the house and had the idea of using it on an old snooker cue to get the scratches out of the brass ferrule. It worked a treat! This ferrule was scratch to hell, it was my 'practice' cue for putting tips on when I was younger and trying to learn. It looked like a new ferrule after 5 minutes. I discovered it made the shaft ridiculously smooth, and burnished the tip really well too. So I used it on my pool cue to slicken the shaft and its slicker than its ever been. I've tried all sorts on the past, some really expensive but this £3.50 steel wool is better than anything I've tried. My next venture is trying it out on an old set of balls to see how well it polishes them.
 
Bob Jewett

Bob Jewett

AZB Osmium Member
Staff member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Pidge said:
Anyone ever used it on a cue? I bought some fine steel wool last week to smooth and buffer something in the house and had the idea of using it on an old snooker cue to get the scratches out of the brass ferrule. It worked a treat! This ferrule was scratch to hell, it was my 'practice' cue for putting tips on when I was younger and trying to learn. It looked like a new ferrule after 5 minutes. I discovered it made the shaft ridiculously smooth, and burnished the tip really well too. So I used it on my pool cue to slicken the shaft and its slicker than its ever been. I've tried all sorts on the past, some really expensive but this £3.50 steel wool is better than anything I've tried. My next venture is trying it out on an old set of balls to see how well it polishes them.
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A few years ago, like 50 or so, steel wool and #600 sandpaper were the standard ways to clean shafts. If you had a pocket full of #600 at a big tournament, all the players would want to be your friend.

These days, with shafts costing $200 or so each, using abrasives on the shaft has mostly fallen out of favor. Do a search on "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser". It is recommended to clean shafts by several regulars.
 
Pidge

Pidge

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Bob Jewett said:
A few years ago, like 50 or so, steel wool and #600 sandpaper were the standard ways to clean shafts. If you had a pocket full of #600 at a big tournament, all the players would want to be your friend.

These days, with shafts costing $200 or so each, using abrasives on the shaft has mostly fallen out of favor. Do a search on "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser". It is recommended to clean shafts by several regulars.
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I've used that before, and didn't really rate it. I bought some 1000 grit sand paper a while back for my cue and I've been using that until I tried the steel wool. I've got a bit of an addiction to putting tips on pool cues and snooker cues so I've always offered to put a tip on for my friends, and gradually through word of mouth its grown into putting a tip on a week. In particular on snooker cues the process will be massively speeded up because I don't have to be so careful trimming a tip by hand. The steel wool is there to buffer out any minor scratches :)
 
Blue Hog ridr

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
I have a box of the 0000 in the shop. I don't necessarily use it with cue repair.

Sure, if it works well to polish a brass ferrule, why not.

I once did some work on a guys cue. I cleaned his very dirty shaft while I was at it.

When being so dirty It was hard to notice by sight, but after cleaning, I noticed somewhat of an hour glass figure under the ferrule.

I asked him what he was using to clean, polish his shaft with. Steel wool was the correct answer.

Of course one doesn't want to mark their ferrule so they will stop short of hitting it when polishing.

You obviously won't notice it at first, but prolonged use will eventually give it a little indent under the ferrule for you.

With a brass ferrule, there is nothing stopping you from continuing on to the top.

With other ferrule material, you would obviously want to stop short.

I have seen people apply a coat of stain to a nice piece of wood. Then use fine wool to rub it in gently in a circular motion, much like a French Polish.

It has many great uses.
 
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Pidge

Pidge

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Blue Hog ridr said:
I have a box of the 0000 in the shop. I don't necessarily use it with cue repair.

Sure, if it works well to polish a brass ferrule, why not.

I once did some work on a guys cue. I cleaned his very dirty shaft while I was at it.

When being so dirty It was hard to notice by sight, but after cleaning, I noticed somewhat of an hour glass figure under the ferrule.

I asked him what he was using to clean, polish his shaft with. Steel wool was the correct answer.

Of course one doesn't want to mark their ferrule so they will stop short of hitting it when polishing.

You obviously won't notice it at first, but prolonged use will eventually give it a little indent under the ferrule for you.

With a brass ferrule, there is nothing stopping you from continuing on to the top.

With other ferrule material, you would obviously want to stop short.

I have seen people apply a coat of stain to a nice piece of wood. Then use fine wool to rub it in gently in a circular motion, much like a French Polish.

It has many great uses.
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Yeah I doubt I'll be steel willing my ferrule on the pool cue just yet :) I taped over it. I shouldn't have bothered, the ferrule has 3 decent sized cracks in it, but I'm never changing it. I've got too used to it.

Its hazardous stuff though, I woke up the day after with what felt like an eye lash in my eye, it was a long strand of steel sticking out of the corner. No idea how it got there. I used it in the garage, had shades on, gloves and changed clothes right after.
 
gregcantrall

gregcantrall

Center Ball
Silver Member
Steel wool or scotch bright will remove the soft part of the wood grain faster than the hard part. Growth rings in wood are what create the grain and alternate soft and hard. If used in an up and down stroking motion it will eventually leave the shaft in a similar condition as the wood grain you see in signs that have been sand blasted. Just on a smaller scale. I would never use either on my shaft. 600 grit paper for me. I could care less about keeping my shaft nice and white or clean looking. I wash it ever time I play with just a touch of soapy water after I wash my hands then burnish it dry with a paper towel. I do not worry what people think when they see me taking my cue with me to the men's room. The shaft now has a greenish patina to it but is smooth as silk. I rarely even touch it with 600 paper.
 
buckshotshoey

buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A little info....we used 000 or finer in the body shop to remove accidental overspray from glass! Scotch Brites will scratch the hell out of glass but the steel wool will not.
Shouldnt be a problem if used wisely on a cue.
 
I

i8ap4t

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
gregcantrall said:
Steel wool or scotch bright will remove the soft part of the wood grain faster than the hard part. Growth rings in wood are what create the grain and alternate soft and hard. If used in an up and down stroking motion it will eventually leave the shaft in a similar condition as the wood grain you see in signs that have been sand blasted. Just on a smaller scale. I would never use either on my shaft. 600 grit paper for me. I could care less about keeping my shaft nice and white or clean looking. I wash it ever time I play with just a touch of soapy water after I wash my hands then burnish it dry with a paper towel. I do not worry what people think when they see me taking my cue with me to the men's room. The shaft now has a greenish patina to it but is smooth as silk. I rarely even touch it with 600 paper.
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Remind me not to buy any of your cues.
 
x3dnd3x

x3dnd3x

Trainee Chalk Collector
Silver Member
Usually for snooker cues, #0000 wire wool is the way to go to polish up and brighten your ferrule.
 
trob

trob

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'll ask it again WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU PEOPLE DOING WITH YOUR SHAFT THAT YOU NEED SANDPAPER OR STEEL WOOL TO CLEAN IT!? :eek: I use a damp towel to wipe it down...a dry towel.. then a piece of leather to burnish once a week and my shafts are clean and smooth lol
 
V

voiceofreason

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Why would anyone want to wear away their pride and joy with sandpaper or wire wool.

Has the world gone mad????
 
ShootingArts

ShootingArts

Smorg is giving St Peter the 7!
Gold Member
Silver Member
took a long time for somebody to say this

gregcantrall said:
Steel wool or scotch bright will remove the soft part of the wood grain faster than the hard part. Growth rings in wood are what create the grain and alternate soft and hard. If used in an up and down stroking motion it will eventually leave the shaft in a similar condition as the wood grain you see in signs that have been sand blasted. Just on a smaller scale. I would never use either on my shaft. 600 grit paper for me. I could care less about keeping my shaft nice and white or clean looking. I wash it ever time I play with just a touch of soapy water after I wash my hands then burnish it dry with a paper towel. I do not worry what people think when they see me taking my cue with me to the men's room. The shaft now has a greenish patina to it but is smooth as silk. I rarely even touch it with 600 paper.
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BINGO! Steel wool used up and down a shaft will indeed dig out the softer wood first. If you use a lot of pressure even 00000 will do it in pretty short order.

Steel wool and shafts don't go together. Wait a minute! Just remembered about Willard tools and tips. Steel wool and shafts are great together. Use double ought and stroke it like you are trying to start a fire!

Steel wool could be another boon to cue makers and repairmen like the Willard tool was. Nothing like a Willard tool to increase tip sales, should be passing them out free. Steel wool, here have a few pads! Should really do cool things to those laminated shafts. Here is a secret, Brillo pads are best, cleans, smooths, removes old dead wood that gives your shaft that dull dead sounding hit. Brillo should include glove sales too, I usually use a welding glove on my left hand after cleaning the shaft with Brillo.

Hu
 
phil dade

phil dade

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Steel wool and sand paper are not good for your shafts in the long run. They remove finish and allow moisture to penetrate. Additionally, chalk and dirt will penetrate and eventually taper roll then warpage.

It is best to use a dry terry cloth towel and then really rub the shaft with a new dollar bill to transfer the silicon. It will develop that patina. The leather methood mentioned previously also works, but I do not think quite as well as there are dirrerent surfaces and finishes on leathers.

BTW, Ginacues used to come with a warning giving the information I have shared.
 
Pidge

Pidge

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
phil dade said:
Steel wool and sand paper are not good for your shafts in the long run. They remove finish and allow moisture to penetrate. Additionally, chalk and dirt will penetrate and eventually taper roll then warpage.

It is best to use a dry terry cloth towel and then really rub the shaft with a new dollar bill to transfer the silicon. It will develop that patina. The leather methood mentioned previously also works, but I do not think quite as well as there are dirrerent surfaces and finishes on leathers.

BTW, Ginacues used to come with a warning giving the information I have shared.
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So the moral of the story is to stay away from steel wool and sand paper. I'll still be using it on brass ferrules bit ill make sure to tape the shaft up good. Does say, any British notes to the same as a dollar bill?
 
C

Careyp74

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Bob Jewett said:
A few years ago, like 50 or so, steel wool and #600 sandpaper were the standard ways to clean shafts. If you had a pocket full of #600 at a big tournament, all the players would want to be your friend.

These days, with shafts costing $200 or so each, using abrasives on the shaft has mostly fallen out of favor. Do a search on "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser". It is recommended to clean shafts by several regulars.
Click to expand...

but after using the eraser, it is still recommended to burnish the shaft with a high grade paper to remove any grain raised up, and to seal it. I use 400 grit aluminum oxide paper, and find it burnishes better than silicon carbide, and doesn't take anything off of the shaft. I don't even bother with the eraser anymore unless it is someone elses shaft that doesn't take care of it and left it blue from the chalk.

Terry cloth isn't going to burnish the shaft, and leather shaft squares aren't treated with anything that will cause damage to the shaft.
 
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C

Chops02

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
i've got a q wiz and a pack of varner's burnishing papers. works like a champ and i don't end up whittling away my shaft.
 
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