Pin removal?

Cmbeers · Aug 22, 2017

Ok as my cue repair business grows, I've been running into repairs that I have not done yet. I've read up on this subject, but advice would be appreciated.

This customer has an inexpensive cue that broke the pin off. He likes the cue and would like me to try and put a new pin in. I've explained the damage that may occur and he's willing to take a chance.

Now I've seen that most heat the pin up and either put it in a vise or use vise grips to remove. I don't know if I can heat this pin because of where it broke off. So my mechanic background tells me to drill it out and try to clean up the treads or plug it And re tap. What are you experienced cue repairman thinking?

Before this becomes a "don't do it thread", please understand that I'm looking at this as a learning experience. The customer knows that the cue may get damaged and is willing to accept the risk. The cue is only worth $70. I'm not doing this for alot of money, just experience.

Any advice on how you would approach this repair is appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris

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GBCues · Aug 22, 2017

Get a screw extractor set (if you don't already have one) of the correct size for the pin - it is, after all, just a screw.
Prepare the pin - drill the starter hole and then verify the extractor bit gets a good bite.
Heat the cue pin with a large wattage soldering iron - it may take a while.
Chuck the extractor bit in your drill, set the bit and back it out.
It may take a few tries.
My 2 cents,
Gary

JoeyInCali · Aug 22, 2017

If that is brass, machine it out.
You will need to make a collet that fits it well too.

If you heat that, what if they used cheap glue on the core instead of epoxy?
Charge $50.
You charge cheap, you will get cheaped-out later.

Cmbeers · Aug 22, 2017

I was thinking that. I wasn't sure if a soldering iron would get it hot enough. That sounds like a good starting point.
Thank you for your input.

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Cmbeers · Aug 22, 2017

JoeyInCali said:
If that is brass, machine it out.
You will need to make a collet that fits it well too.
Charge $50.
You charge cheap, you will get cheaped-out later.

Do you think machining it out would be better than heating it? I could do either I guess. Maybe I'll try to heat it first, then machine it out if need be.
Thanks for the input.

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JoeyInCali · Aug 22, 2017

Cmbeers said:
Do you think machining it out would be better than heating it? I could do either I guess. Maybe I'll try to heat it first, then machine it out if need be.
Thanks for the input.

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I never heat brass screws.
Avoid heating amap.

Cmbeers · Aug 22, 2017

Curious, why do you not heat brass screws? I've never done it, so just asking.

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Michael Webb · Aug 22, 2017

I've done both methods mentioned. I prefer to use an extractor and heat it.
Your worst senerial drilling it out would be, if the drill binds and the cue slips in the collet.

Cmbeers · Aug 22, 2017

Have you had any trouble heating brass? I'll have the cue in my hands tomorrow to see if it's brass or not.

I had a cue slip on me once during a repair and luckily I was able to touch it up real well. Definitely learned that one the hard way. Lol. I think I'll machine a new collet for the cue, like the other gentleman suggested, and try to be very careful.

Thanks for your help.

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JoeyInCali · Aug 22, 2017

Cmbeers said:
Curious, why do you not heat brass screws? I've never done it, so just asking.

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B/c I don't know what kind of glue was used in other cues.

I use ball end mill on brass screws. Mill them out and re-plug with a 1/2 diam. plugs. Be it wood or phenolic/micarta.

Michael Webb · Aug 22, 2017

Cmbeers said:
Have you had any trouble heating brass? I'll have the cue in my hands tomorrow to see if it's brass or not.

I had a cue slip on me once during a repair and luckily I was able to touch it up real well. Definitely learned that one the hard way. Lol. I think I'll machine a new collet for the cue, like the other gentleman suggested, and try to be very careful.

Thanks for your help.

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Brass heats real quick

KJ Cues · Aug 22, 2017

Just looking down the road here a little bit, what are the specs of the pin (tpi & dia) ?
Do you have a replacement pin if it's a bastard ? Are you prepared to change the insert as well ?
Brass machines nicely but on this one it's a 'pick-em'. Pick your poison, mill or heat (or both).
Depending on the specs of the pin, you may not have to plug the hole. Indicate the cue and BORE it.
If you have to go to an alternate pin inform your client that he can have whatever he wants......
as long as it's stainless steel. His history with brass isn't tracking so well.

I do a Uni QR, top & bottom for $75 but you say this is a $70 cue. Accounting is educational also.
You should thank your client. He's paying for your education. Do good work and he'll thank you in return.

KJ

PS. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc and yeah, copper heats quick. Lol Thanx Mike.

Canadian cue · Aug 22, 2017

One thing you may want to be conscious of is if the old pin ran concentric to the cue. Many cheap cues are built by fitting the shaft to the cue and then they sand the two as a unit so there is no misalignment between the two. In these cases the pin often doesnt run true. This makes your job of having everything line up when you are done a little more challenging. So before installing a new pin it is a good idea to do some investagating.

JC · Aug 22, 2017

Michael Webb said:
I've done both methods mentioned. I prefer to use an extractor and heat it.
Your worst senerial drilling it out would be, if the drill binds and the cue slips in the collet.

Another reason I like leather instead of collets against finished parts.

JC

rhinobywilhite · Aug 22, 2017

Michael Webb said:
I've done both methods mentioned. I prefer to use an extractor and heat it.
Your worst senerial drilling it out would be, if the drill binds and the cue slips in the collet.

I think Mr. Webb has a good idea. Just my 2 cents and also, other methods would work.

Michael Webb · Aug 22, 2017

JC said:
Another reason I like leather instead of collets against finished parts.

JC

No matter what is used. Everything has danger points.

Mase · Aug 23, 2017

What I do if I have an expensive cue that I cannot afford to have collet marks on it, is call a friend. I have a friend come over and help hold the cue while I extract the pin or insert. When it is held by hand there is not much chance of damaging it.

Cmbeers · Aug 23, 2017

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I greatly appreciate it!

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Cmbeers · Aug 23, 2017

KJ Cues said:
Just looking down the road here a little bit, what are the specs of the pin (tpi & dia) ?
Do you have a replacement pin if it's a bastard ? Are you prepared to change the insert as well ?
Brass machines nicely but on this one it's a 'pick-em'. Pick your poison, mill or heat (or both).
Depending on the specs of the pin, you may not have to plug the hole. Indicate the cue and BORE it.
If you have to go to an alternate pin inform your client that he can have whatever he wants......
as long as it's stainless steel. His history with brass isn't tracking so well.

I do a Uni QR, top & bottom for $75 but you say this is a $70 cue. Accounting is educational also.
You should thank your client. He's paying for your education. Do good work and he'll thank you in return.

KJ

PS. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc and yeah, copper heats quick. Lol Thanx Mike.

Good advice. Thank you. I'm waiting to get the cue in my hands and then I should be able to tell what pin it is. I'm going to order one once I know.

I will make sure to explain that he may need a different pin if that is some sort of bastard pin. That I did not think about. Thank you.

Chris

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PoppaSaun · Aug 23, 2017

Every cue I've removed the pin from was very simple, almost no risk of damaging the cue or the finish.

Heat the pin to the point that the glue fails, clamp the pin in a set of soft jaws in a vise, unscrew the butt with your hands...you know, like how you take a cue apart.

It ain't rocket surgery.

Pin removal?

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