I need help I have owned production cues all my life. I recently bought my first custom cue (josswest)and have caught the collecting bug. I don’t have a dealer that carries custom cues anywhere within driving distance. Therefore I cannot test hit any of the custom cues myself. I am currently looking at two options as a playing cue. Option 1 is a Tim Scruggs hoppe style with classic steel joint and option 2 is a fancier Mike Capone cue with a radial wood to wood joint. I have always played either Schon or Joss and I like the way they hit and feel. I had an entry level Mcdermott when I started playing but I didn’t like it. Does the radial joint feel better than the 3/8x10? Which would you recommend? What is the difference in the hit of the two?
Sgruggs or Capone HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter KYCATS
- Start date
My completely biased opinion would say... Scruggs :yes:
I would choose 3/8-10 over radial.
If you can find 3/10 flat base,e.g. NEWER ~~> Sugartree, DZ or Ariel Carmeli, that would even be better. They look like Southwest pin. They offer full contact on both the pin and wood surfaces over the non flat face 3/8-10. 3/8-10 also allows user to tightened / locked their cue very tight.
I have seen three wooden thread of a radial joint shafts coming loose(two custom cue and one production cue).
If you can find 3/10 flat base,e.g. NEWER ~~> Sugartree, DZ or Ariel Carmeli, that would even be better. They look like Southwest pin. They offer full contact on both the pin and wood surfaces over the non flat face 3/8-10. 3/8-10 also allows user to tightened / locked their cue very tight.
I have seen three wooden thread of a radial joint shafts coming loose(two custom cue and one production cue).
just my thought
the hit & feel of a cue is a good topic. i am a cue juncky have about thirty
cues. if you like the hit & feel of the josswest steel 3/8x10 stay with the
steel . first there are a lot of good cue makers out there , i going to tell you what i think about your question the best i can . i have three joss cues
& two schon cues . what i think will help you the most is that the 3/8x10
& radial pin will be close in play & feel. where i think there will be a differance is joint material. going to tell you about three cues i like # 1
dale perry steel joint radial pin . most cue makers are using a thin wall
steel joint which i think is better. cause it keeps the balance point where
i think it needs to be ,close to 18 inches and gives a little lighter hit & feel.
#1 jacoby custom made . i am from the old school in the 70s jacoby #1
has phenolic joint material with the meucci flat face 5/16x18 pin .
has the old hit & feel . makes me feel twenty again. jacoby #2 has thin wall steel joint 5/16 x 14 with piloited joint. i think has the best hit & feel
for me . sounds like that is what you would like.yes i know every one has
different opinions . this is mine . hope this helps you, john
the hit & feel of a cue is a good topic. i am a cue juncky have about thirty
cues. if you like the hit & feel of the josswest steel 3/8x10 stay with the
steel . first there are a lot of good cue makers out there , i going to tell you what i think about your question the best i can . i have three joss cues
& two schon cues . what i think will help you the most is that the 3/8x10
& radial pin will be close in play & feel. where i think there will be a differance is joint material. going to tell you about three cues i like # 1
dale perry steel joint radial pin . most cue makers are using a thin wall
steel joint which i think is better. cause it keeps the balance point where
i think it needs to be ,close to 18 inches and gives a little lighter hit & feel.
#1 jacoby custom made . i am from the old school in the 70s jacoby #1
has phenolic joint material with the meucci flat face 5/16x18 pin .
has the old hit & feel . makes me feel twenty again. jacoby #2 has thin wall steel joint 5/16 x 14 with piloited joint. i think has the best hit & feel
for me . sounds like that is what you would like.yes i know every one has
different opinions . this is mine . hope this helps you, john
TS would be a good match....
I think you already may have answered your own question :grin-square:
If you know you like the feel of a Joss or Schon then I'm 99.9% sure you'll love a Scruggs 5/16-14 SS piloted joint :wink:
My personal preference is a Brass 3/8-10 or 3/8-11 flat faced joint. I have seen several Radial pin cues that seem to come loose during play; and, IMHO they feel much softer in the hit to me than a 3/8-10 SS flat faced joint or a 5/16-14 piloted joint.
I'm thinking about trying a Brass 3/8-10 or 3/8-11 pin with a solid Ivory joint on my next custom cue :smile:
Have Fun & Happy Holidays,
Ken
....I've never shot with one of Mike's cues (yet) but, they look really SWEET
I think you already may have answered your own question :grin-square:
If you know you like the feel of a Joss or Schon then I'm 99.9% sure you'll love a Scruggs 5/16-14 SS piloted joint :wink:
My personal preference is a Brass 3/8-10 or 3/8-11 flat faced joint. I have seen several Radial pin cues that seem to come loose during play; and, IMHO they feel much softer in the hit to me than a 3/8-10 SS flat faced joint or a 5/16-14 piloted joint.
I'm thinking about trying a Brass 3/8-10 or 3/8-11 pin with a solid Ivory joint on my next custom cue :smile:
Have Fun & Happy Holidays,
Ken
....I've never shot with one of Mike's cues (yet) but, they look really SWEET
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If you like Joss and Schon, then I would suggest either a Runde or a sharp pointed Runde Schon. Both are great values and you will not loose money, unless you go in over your head. I have only hit with 2 or 3 Scruggs and I was not impressed at all. Beautiful cues, but pretty doesn't pocket the balls. I would also recommend looking at Mottey if you are interested in Scruggs.
oops keep scrolling down
Most people prefer the hit of scruggs to anything,I think everyone should own at least one sometime in their life. I have 4 on order now
where do you live?If you are close enough you can come to Dallas,or Baltimore or Pensacola and I will get you a free test run so you can be sure for yourself.
I have never had a Capone cue,his may be great as well,I think it unfair to compare two cues like this in a publc way,someone always gets the fuzzy end of the pop cicke.Fairness would suggest a more private venue for this question,where no one recieves a black eye when he doesn't deserve it.
Dean
Most people prefer the hit of scruggs to anything,I think everyone should own at least one sometime in their life. I have 4 on order now
where do you live?If you are close enough you can come to Dallas,or Baltimore or Pensacola and I will get you a free test run so you can be sure for yourself.
I have never had a Capone cue,his may be great as well,I think it unfair to compare two cues like this in a publc way,someone always gets the fuzzy end of the pop cicke.Fairness would suggest a more private venue for this question,where no one recieves a black eye when he doesn't deserve it.
Dean
I agree with Dean, the best thing you can do is try either cue and see what you prefer. I personally haven't tried a Capone, but I do have a Tim Scruggs sneaky pete. It hits quite nice, I like it a lot. There was a cue collecting thread on the main forum last week about what cues to collect and values. You should read it. That way, you can decide on a specific theme or idea for your collection.
Read the following thread:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=167057
I havent played with a scruggs, but my capone is great. Workmanship, value and hit are great. Its easy to say try both, but that can be tough to do. U cant wrong with one or the other in my opinion, and if you dont like what you get it should be easy to find a good trade.
I have never had a Scruggs but I did have a little fancier Capone with a sleeved ivory joint and a radial joint... and guess what, I too had an entry level McDermott with the 3/8-10 joint and didn't like it at all.
The Capone was entirely different, it was absolutely awesome in every aspect. The execution was perfect, everything sharp and even, the rings lined up and more importantly, the joint was extremely tight, you could feel the screw polishing the shaft up - as far as I know these joints are made a very-very-very tiny little bit smaller in the shaft so that it is the pin that does the final match.
Here's a picture of it, this was a beautiful cue:
Truth to be told, Scruggs cues seem to hold their value a lot better so they are better as an investment.
...And although it is a somewhat irrelevant suggestion, I would also recommend you considering a Mottey, they are absolutely fantastic.
P.S.: as icem3n mentioned earlier, there are different alternatives for Radial and 3/8-10 and here you may see a very good picture that shows you the difference: LINK.
The Capone was entirely different, it was absolutely awesome in every aspect. The execution was perfect, everything sharp and even, the rings lined up and more importantly, the joint was extremely tight, you could feel the screw polishing the shaft up - as far as I know these joints are made a very-very-very tiny little bit smaller in the shaft so that it is the pin that does the final match.
Here's a picture of it, this was a beautiful cue:
Truth to be told, Scruggs cues seem to hold their value a lot better so they are better as an investment.
...And although it is a somewhat irrelevant suggestion, I would also recommend you considering a Mottey, they are absolutely fantastic.
P.S.: as icem3n mentioned earlier, there are different alternatives for Radial and 3/8-10 and here you may see a very good picture that shows you the difference: LINK.
Wouldnt you like to have couple of those old Scruggs now? I bet you wouldnt give them away! :grin:
Scruggs or If you can get one try his partner Cochrane.
I have many different types of cues from different makers. My feelings about joints and pins is it makes no difference. Their main function is to join the shaft to the butt. I have never felt that the joint made the cue feel or play better. When playing I could not honestly tell if it is radial, conical, steel, ivory, SS, big pin, small pin and etc. The joint has no effect on CB action or control. A cue is a total package. What can really change the cue is the tip. The wrap will also make the cue feel different because you are holding it and it can dampen the "sting". A solid cue will not make any funny noise and will have a sound that is pleasing to you. Some will go ping others thud and all sounds in between. I have had SS joints and some go ping and others go pong, all sound different and the same with other joints.
The main thing is quality of wood, fit, finish, glue lines, gaps, and all of the other things that make a cue a solid. That is why some cue makers are more popular. They have the experience and craftsmanship that is required to build a solid cue. Poor craftsmanship will make a bad playing cue. If you have ever had a tip or ferrule changed on a quality cue and it wasn't done right you will know what I am writing about. It is the same as putting cheap tires on a quality car. You will immediately feel the difference.
I have many different types of cues from different makers. My feelings about joints and pins is it makes no difference. Their main function is to join the shaft to the butt. I have never felt that the joint made the cue feel or play better. When playing I could not honestly tell if it is radial, conical, steel, ivory, SS, big pin, small pin and etc. The joint has no effect on CB action or control. A cue is a total package. What can really change the cue is the tip. The wrap will also make the cue feel different because you are holding it and it can dampen the "sting". A solid cue will not make any funny noise and will have a sound that is pleasing to you. Some will go ping others thud and all sounds in between. I have had SS joints and some go ping and others go pong, all sound different and the same with other joints.
The main thing is quality of wood, fit, finish, glue lines, gaps, and all of the other things that make a cue a solid. That is why some cue makers are more popular. They have the experience and craftsmanship that is required to build a solid cue. Poor craftsmanship will make a bad playing cue. If you have ever had a tip or ferrule changed on a quality cue and it wasn't done right you will know what I am writing about. It is the same as putting cheap tires on a quality car. You will immediately feel the difference.