Brazed carbide cutter

I've sharpened them seen others do it

I suck as it because grinding by hand for me, I've done it like 5 times

john coloccia said:

Can you sharpen those on a regular grinding wheel, or do you just hope they come sharp and toss them when they're dull?

Thanks!

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Yes, actually they are pretty easy to sharpen but you need the right equipment.
At the very minimum. You must use an electric grinder with a green wheel at the minimum. A diamond wheel is much, much better.

New brazed carbide tooling do not come pre sharpened very well and for wood and aluminum they are sharpened at the wrong angle.

Dick

rhncue said:

Yes, actually they are pretty easy to sharpen but you need the right equipment.
At the very minimum. You must use an electric grinder with a green wheel at the minimum. A diamond wheel is much, much better.

New brazed carbide tooling do not come pre sharpened very well and for wood and aluminum they are sharpened at the wrong angle.

Dick

Click to expand...

Absolutely...

These cutters are designed to 'chip' hard steel. The last thing you would want
is long ribbons of razor sharp steel whipping around on a spinning workpiece.

For wood or plastic a geometry that slices the material is more desirable.

Dale

Some companies make Brazed carbide tools with the carbide inclined at and angle to give a high top rake angle.
At the least you want a diamond lap to sharpen them. The green wheels I have seen and used have all micro chiped the carbide on the edge. Contrary to what some say, yo can over heat and damage carbide with too much heat.
Like Dick said a diamond wheel is best for sharpening brazed carbide tooling. A close second is desic diamond tools like those for Dremel and other hand grinders. They are much better than a green wheel.
Neil

I agree with the need to re-grind MOST carbides right out of the box,but would like to add an exception that I have first-hand experience with.

The cutters from Micro 100 are totally usable immediately. I don't know if it's just a better grade of carbide,or ground differently at the factory,but the first one I bought got 3 years worth of use out of the original edge,and was only reground/sharpened to prepare for my first public tournament repair gig.

It's only been resharpened once on a bench grinder since,and only on the end,the other surfaces haven't been touched yet.

I have an identical cutter I switch out to when I have to cut aluminum,brass,etc. It still has the factory edge on it and works better than any other cutter I have unless I need a dead-sharp point for a shoulder.

I haven't spent the money for a 2nd bench grinder and green wheels,instead I bought a Smith's double-sided diamond grit lapping plate and spent some time learning to use it right. Tommy D.

indexable lathe bits

If you search this forum you will find quite a few recommendations of various indexable cutters for use on wood. I've tried quite a few, but the ones that work by far the best for me are the kind Joeyincali suggested a while back. Peels off wood like a razor. Many I tried worked well but these are the best I've run into. Look no farther than these...they are really great.

Joey, what was that number?

Robin Snyder