Ferrule and Tip Aiming System

Renegade_56

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've experimented with this in the past. Basically find the contact point on the object ball from the pocket back thru the object ball, and then, depending on the degree of cut aim either straight at it with center of tip, or on a more severe cut aim the left or right edge of the ferrule at it on the side of the cut. It actually works well, but just like anything that involves contact point, it can break down depending on how well one can actually see the contact point from a given distance, and then hit it accurately. It's about as repeatable as any other method I've tried I'd say.
 

Low500

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Shane Van Boening uses a tip or ferrule aiming system which he describes below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQ-ohU0sJXE

He aims with either the left side of the tip/ferrule, the center of the tip/ferrule, or the right side of the tip/ferrule. It’s pretty vague from the cut angles he illustrates.

So I’d like to take a shot at using those three parts of the tip/ferrule and having a number of interested, curious wild and crazy guys give it a shot on the table and post back your results.
It doesn’t matter whether you have good results or not. Let’s see what you get.
Set shots up to either one of the corner pockets or a side pocket with a minor cut to either pocket. In other words, if you hit the shot straight the OB would miss the pocket and hit the rail outside the pocket point. Keep increasing the “miss” to about a foot or more outside the pocket if you hit it straight on.
For starters keep the OB and CB about a diamond apart for these shots.
He doesn’t say anything about a pivot but we’re going to use one. If you’re absolutely anti-pivot or use of the back hand to do this, don’t even try or get involved.
Set the OB and CB up for a straight shot that misses the pocket IF you hit it straight on but you’ll be cutting it to the RIGHT where the pocket is located. Remember you’re aiming for a MISS, not a cut to make it. On a right cut shot you’ll be using the LEFT side of your tip/ferrule aligned at the dead center of the CB to the dead center of the OB. Then pivot either your backhand or hip so the center of your tip is now at the center of the CB and center of the OB. SHOOT.
Left cuts are the same as above except OPPOSITE. The right side of the ferrule will be on the center of the CB aligned to the center of the OB and then pivoted to the center of the tip on the center of the CB.
When you get to an angle where this no longer works, I’ll post the next step. No need for confusion or information overload. But I’ll only do it if enough guys get involved.
Good post and some good thinking behind it.
I have fooled around with this edge of ferrule method some and it works very good.
BUT...before I get down into shooting position, I get a perception using the standard CTE method of checking the "two lines". Then when I have the proper perception deducted from that, I go down to shoot as you describe.
Lining up the edge of the ferrule (right or left, depending on the cut) to the perception (15-30-45-60), do a very slight body pivot to center ball (high or low) and pull the trigger.
This idea can fall apart just a little when some spin is needed...requiring a little 'tweaking'.....which I don't like. The less tinkering I have to fool around with, the happier I am.
It also gives me some troubles on long straight in shots, especially on shimmed up 4 1/4 inch pockets or snooker table pockets,...whereas CTE doesn't.
I stick with the old reliable CTE that I learned from watching Shuffett's YouTube videos. It's simpler to me.
Keep on truckin'
:thumbup:
 
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SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
I've experimented with this in the past. Basically find the contact point on the object ball from the pocket back thru the object ball, and then, depending on the degree of cut aim either straight at it with center of tip, or on a more severe cut aim the left or right edge of the ferrule at it on the side of the cut. It actually works well, but just like anything that involves contact point, it can break down depending on how well one can actually see the contact point from a given distance, and then hit it accurately. It's about as repeatable as any other method I've tried I'd say.[/QUOTE

..............
 
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SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
Good post and some good thinking behind it.
I have fooled around with this edge of ferrule method some and it works very good.
BUT...before I get down into shooting position, I get a perception using the standard CTE method of checking the "two lines". Then when I have the proper perception deducted from that, I go down to shoot as you describe.
Lining up the edge of the ferrule (right or left, depending on the cut) to the perception (15-30-45-60), do a very slight body pivot to center ball (high or low) and pull the trigger.
This idea can fall apart just a little when some spin is needed...requiring a little 'tweaking'.....which I don't like. The less tinkering I have to fool around with, the happier I am.
It also gives me some troubles on long straight in shots, especially on shimmed up 4 1/4 inch pockets or snooker table pockets,...whereas CTE doesn't.
I stick with the old reliable CTE that I learned from watching Shuffett's YouTube videos. It's simpler to me.
Keep on truckin'
:thumbup:

Trust me when I say this, CTE is the NUTS! In your course of play it will outshine everything if proficient and I'm not coming close to suggesting you abandon it.

All this other stuff is a combination of what Shane does with his tip/ferrule and something else. Pivot being one of them.
 

Bobkitty

I said: "Here kitty, kitty". Got this frown.
Gold Member
Silver Member
Shane Van Boening uses a tip or ferrule aiming system which he describes below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQ-ohU0sJXE

He aims with either the left side of the tip/ferrule, the center of the tip/ferrule, or the right side of the tip/ferrule. It’s pretty vague from the cut angles he illustrates.

So I’d like to take a shot at using those three parts of the tip/ferrule and having a number of interested, curious wild and crazy guys give it a shot on the table and post back your results.

It doesn’t matter whether you have good results or not. Let’s see what you get.

Set shots up to either one of the corner pockets or a side pocket with a minor cut to either pocket. In other words, if you hit the shot straight the OB would miss the pocket and hit the rail outside the pocket point. Keep increasing the “miss” to about a foot or more outside the pocket if you hit it straight on.

For starters keep the OB and CB about a diamond apart for these shots.

He doesn’t say anything about a pivot but we’re going to use one. If you’re absolutely anti-pivot or use of the back hand to do this, don’t even try or get involved.

Set the OB and CB up for a straight shot that misses the pocket IF you hit it straight on but you’ll be cutting it to the RIGHT where the pocket is located. Remember you’re aiming for a MISS, not a cut to make it.

On a right cut shot you’ll be using the LEFT side of your tip/ferrule aligned at the dead center of the CB to the dead center of the OB. Then pivot either your backhand or hip so the center of your tip is now at the center of the CB and center of the OB. SHOOT.

Left cuts are the same as above except OPPOSITE. The right side of the ferrule will be on the center of the CB aligned to the center of the OB and then pivoted to the center of the tip on the center of the CB.

When you get to an angle where this no longer works, I’ll post the next step. No need for confusion or information overload. But I’ll only do it if enough guys get involved.

If you decide it's interesting and working enough for you, there are no gaps. We can go from 1 degree to 90 degrees.

SVB has GOT to come up with something else other than what's out there to make $$$. How about CJ Wiley coming up with "Aim a little bit inside English"? Something new. ha Doesn't that make most shots where everyone cuts them a little bit thinner? Hitting the balls thick is what 95% of misses come from, so a "little bit of inside English" makes hitting the balls a little thinner. Wow, another boom buster! Amazing why guys are so possessed on "finding" an aiming system instead of blaming their own work!
 
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SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
SVB has GOT to come up with something else other than what's out there to make $$$. How about CJ Wiley coming up with "Aim a little bit inside English"? Something new. ha Doesn't that make most shots where everyone cuts them a little bit thinner? Hitting the balls thick is what 95% of misses come from, so a "little bit of inside English" makes hitting the balls a little thinner. Wow, another boom buster! Amazing why guys are so possessed on "finding" an aiming system instead of blaming their own work!

LMAO! You are so far off base on everything you just posted it's mind boggling.

Kind of like a 3rd grader sitting in on 12th grade classes.

I DO NOT APPRECIATE YOU COMING INTO THIS THREAD TO UPEND IT OR TURN IT INTO ANOTHER FLAME WAR. YOU WILL BE REPORTED AGAIN IF IT HAPPENS ONE MORE TIME!
 
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Bobkitty

I said: "Here kitty, kitty". Got this frown.
Gold Member
Silver Member
LMAO! You are so far off base on everything you just posted it's mind boggling.

Kind of like a 3rd grader sitting in on 12th grade classes.

I DO NOT APPRECIATE YOU COMING INTO THIS THREAD TO UPEND IT OR TURN IT INTO ANOTHER FLAME WAR. YOU WILL BE REPORTED AGAIN IF IT HAPPENS ONE MORE TIME!

Ahhh, the AZB moderator. Yes, I'll butt out. I hope the MAGIC begins....
 

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
For the fun curiosity of this, I went to my table to do as you asked. But then I decided their wasn't enough info to provide a good pool of results from varying players. When you incorporate a pivot, you must provide an exact bridge length (pivot point). It's really only a little more than a 1° angle change between using a 6" bridge and a 10" bridge, so no biggie I suppose, as long as the shot is not too far from the pocket. The setup results in a 10.7° shot, ignoring CIT. Once the OB is moved too far beyond this shot angle, the shot quits hitting the pocket.

Regardless of exactly where the shot is setup (as far as the exact distance from the pocket) doesn't matter, except beyond 7 or 8 feet maybe. It doesn't change the 10.7°. By moving the OB another 1/2 diamond away from the CB changes the shot to 16°. I know you asked to not get too detailed, but after 10 minutes of figuring this up, the math part, I decided not to waste anymore time on it.:D
 
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SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
For the fun curiosity of this, I went to my table to do as you asked. But then I decided their wasn't enough info to provide a good pool of results from varying players. When you incorporate a pivot, you must provide an exact bridge length (pivot point). It's really only a little more than a 1° angle change between using a 6" bridge and a 10" bridge, so no biggie I suppose, as long as the shot is not too far from the pocket.

The setup results in a 10.7° shot, ignoring CIT. Once the OB is moved too far beyond this shot angle, the shot quits hitting the pocket.

Regardless of exactly where the shot is setup (as far as the exact distance from the pocket) doesn't matter, except beyond 7 or 8 feet maybe. It doesn't change the 10.7°. By moving the OB another 1/2 diamond away from the CB changes the shot to 16°. I know you asked to not get too detailed, but after 10 minutes of figuring this up, the math part, I decided not to waste anymore time on it.:D

Hey, no problem. But it's also similar in a lot of respects to the system a good friend of yours uses who kicks your a$$. This is only the basics and a starting point. :D
 
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BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
Hey, no problem. But it's also similar in a lot of respects to the system a good friend of yours uses who kicks your a$$. This is only the basics and a starting point. :D

Interesting. Who is this friend? A good friend of mine? Lol. Very unlikely, as all of my pool-playing friends are feel players, except one, and he uses Shishkabob. He certainly doesn't kick my a$$.

And I agree, and stated so, that a 1° pivot difference in bridge to CB relation probably wouldn't matter, unless the ob was 7 or 8 ft more from the pocket. But the same 1/2 tip pivot would not give the same shot results as the distance between the balls increases. Oh, and it's all meaningless concerning SVB because he uses contact poibts, no pivoting.

So, who's this "good friend" of mine. Lol
 
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sixpack

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I do this for shots that are almost straight in. Can't miss them using it. No matter how long they are.

Edge on center of CB to center of OB. Pivot back to center and fire before you can think about it...lol.
 

AtLarge

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
... On a right cut shot you’ll be using the LEFT side of your tip/ferrule aligned at the dead center of the CB to the dead center of the OB. Then pivot either your backhand or hip so the center of your tip is now at the center of the CB and center of the OB. SHOOT. ...

You probably don't mean to have "and center of the OB' in that second sentence.
 

Dan White

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I set up an ob at mid table near the side pocket. CB one diamond away. Both balls pointing at the left point of the right corner pocket. I aimed left edge of tip at center cb/ob, pivoted to center and shot through that new alignment. The ob hit the pocket facing and went in. The path of the ob was altered using the ferrule/pivot method by about 1 inch, maybe 2. When I move both balls over to the left I miss the pocket because, again, the ob only goes 1 or 2 inches more to the right than straight in.

A friend of mine shoots like this for long shots that are not quite straight. It feels sloppy to me so I prefer just to aim where I'm strokin'.
 

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
I set up an ob at mid table near the side pocket. CB one diamond away. Both balls pointing at the left point of the right corner pocket. I aimed left edge of tip at center cb/ob, pivoted to center and shot through that new alignment. The ob hit the pocket facing and went in. The path of the ob was altered using the ferrule/pivot method by about 1 inch, maybe 2. When I move both balls over to the left I miss the pocket because, again, the ob only goes 1 or 2 inches more to the right than straight in.

A friend of mine shoots like this for long shots that are not quite straight. It feels sloppy to me so I prefer just to aim where I'm strokin'.

Yep. This setup yields around a 10 degree shot angle depending on the amount of throw. Separate the balls by another diamond distance and watch that hit become much thinner, more like 20 degrees. I'm waiting for the next instruction that will fix this angle difference caused by the pivoting aim alignment.
 

Dan White

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Yep. This setup yields around a 10 degree shot angle depending on the amount of throw. Separate the balls by another diamond distance and watch that hit become much thinner, more like 20 degrees. I'm waiting for the next instruction that will fix this angle difference caused by the pivoting aim alignment.

Spider Dave seems to have a plan that we are not yet privy to so I'm just following instructions as asked to see where this leads.
 

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
Spider Dave seems to have a plan that we are not yet privy to so I'm just following instructions as asked to see where this leads.

I went ahead and did it also, by instructions. Four shots with OB two diamonds from corner pocket. Shot quit going when I got center to center lined at about 1/2 a diamond from the pocket. And naturally when I move two balls to where the ob is 5 diamonds from the pocket, keeping them only 1 diamond apart, the centers have to be lined to a full diamond out to reach the no-go limit, due to that 10° angle getting wider on the pocket end.
 

SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
Interesting. Who is this friend? A good friend of mine? Lol. Very unlikely, as all of my pool-playing friends are feel players, except one, and he uses Shishkabob. He certainly doesn't kick my a$$.

So, who's this "good friend" of mine. Lol

LMAO. My little jab worked and torqued you off enough to get under your skin.
Gotcha!

He's the one.
 
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