How do you guys keep your lathe bits sharp?

Kamikazecuetips

AzB Gold Member
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I was wondering if you guys had an easy method to sharpen your lathe bits like new? I have used a mini wheel grinder, but they don’t seem to come out fresh and sharp like new one’s? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Carlos
 

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str8eight

AzB Silver Member
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I was wondering if you guys had an easy method to sharpen your lathe bits like new? I have used a mini wheel grinder, but they don’t seem to come out fresh and sharp like new one’s? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Carlos
A grinding wheel, it takes practice but you'll get it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

JC

Coos Cues
This isn't exactly what you asked but related. I only use my high speed steel bits when I need a sharp inside corner on wood. This way they stay sharp for when I need them for that much longer.

For all my other cutting like reducing ferrules and tips and other materials I use replaceable insert bits that stay sharp for much longer even on tough materials but have a small radius to them. The work horse bits if you will.


JC
 

desi2960

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Indexable

I use the indexable lathe tool bits, much easier just to change the tip than try to sharpen the tool. Might not be for everyone but works for me.
 

GoldCrown

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For all my other cutting like reducing ferrules and tips and other materials I use replaceable insert bits that stay sharp for much longer even on tough materials but have a small radius to them. The work horse bits if you will.


JC

What are you using. Where did you get them. Are they sharp out of the box.
Just curious... can bits be send out for professional sharpening. I have a few similar to Kamik's
 

Renegade_56

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Learn the proper relief angles for the material to be cut is a huge step forward, second only to proper rpm's. Never use a sharp corner when you don't need a sharp corner since it has a minimal amount of surface, so it will break down the fastest, and once you learn the proper relief angles always finish them with the finst grit grinding wheel you can, white is the best for HSS. A rough wheel leaves a rough edge which breaks down the fastest. Look at carbide inserts, no rough edges so much longer wear resistance. True the carbide is much harder, but it's actually overkill for most woods we use.
 

Busbee Cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I know you asked about sharpening but here is another option.

You can use TCGT 21.51 and 21.52 inserts for aluminum. One has less of a radius on the cutting edge than the other.

You will have to buy a set of holders for these bits and adapt them to your setup.

They stay sharp for a long time and cut really nice. They are pretty cheap on Ebay.
 

JC

Coos Cues
What are you using. Where did you get them. Are they sharp out of the box.
Just curious... can bits be send out for professional sharpening. I have a few similar to Kamik's

I know you asked about sharpening but here is another option.

You can use TCGT 21.51 and 21.52 inserts for aluminum. One has less of a radius on the cutting edge than the other.

You will have to buy a set of holders for these bits and adapt them to your setup.

They stay sharp for a long time and cut really nice. They are pretty cheap on Ebay.

This ^^^^^^

I spent half my life sharpening my bits when I started out before someone here shared this with me.

JC
 
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Tom1234

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I use a diamond sharpener (from Home Depot). One side is coarse, the other fine. About 20 dollars. If you use a grinder there is a chance heat will build up quickly and ruin your bit. With a little practice you will have them sharp with the diamond sharpener and not have to worry about heat.
 

Kamikazecuetips

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I use a diamond sharpener (from Home Depot). One side is coarse, the other fine. About 20 dollars. If you use a grinder there is a chance heat will build up quickly and ruin your bit. With a little practice you will have them sharp with the diamond sharpener and not have to worry about heat.

Are these the type you use? I have these, but I have to frequently use.
 

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Superiorduper

AzB Silver Member
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Grinding wheel and a belt sander. I also keep a jug of water filled ice cubes next to me. Work little by little dunking it to keep it cold.

I think they stay sharp much longer if you don’t get them hot while shaping/sharpening. Seems that way to me at least.
 

Tom1234

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Not what I have, but those will work. I use the coarse side 4-5 times (always keeping the same angle), then the fine side to finish. It looks like you have one of Cueman's lathes, this system works on the bits I get from Chris.
 

qbilder

slower than snails
Silver Member
For HSS I use a belt sander. For carbide I use a diamond wheel. As mentioned, it is critical that you understand relief angles. It's important to know how to grind the bit and then when to sharpen it. This is about the easiest part of cue making & it makes one of the biggest differences, so it's worth your time learning. Glue lines in rings and under the ferrule, fuzzed up wood, visible porous areas in phenolic, etc. are all indications of cutters that were either dull or had the wrong profile. The biggest giveaway is the cue's joint face. If it is anything but waxy smooth, flat, shiny clean, it means the facing bit wasn't sharp or was ground wrong. I can't stand seeing torn/ripped end grain on joint faces. Neither can your buyers, so don't send out a cue like that EVER.
 

cbi1000

It is what it is...
Silver Member
I was wondering if you guys had an easy method to sharpen your lathe bits like new? I have used a mini wheel grinder, but they don’t seem to come out fresh and sharp like new one’s? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Carlos

I typically buy new. I am thinking about changing over to using inserts. What are folks using for the smaller lathes (hightower, Mid America)?
 

Kamikazecuetips

AzB Gold Member
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I typically buy new. I am thinking about changing over to using inserts. What are folks using for the smaller lathes (hightower, Mid America)?

Yes, I also typically by new also. The only thing I have not tried is the belt sander. I was thinking of buying a mini belt sander to experiment with. It seems that the angles would be little easier to manipulate with your fingers.

Also, do you guys know if Taig makes these with a belt sander, or grinding wheel?
Just curious....
 

Busbee Cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I typically buy new. I am thinking about changing over to using inserts. What are folks using for the smaller lathes (hightower, Mid America)?

Get the 3/8 holders online and buy some extra tool post and modify them to hold the larger holders.
 

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BarenbruggeCues

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I was wondering if you guys had an easy method to sharpen your lathe bits like new? I have used a mini wheel grinder, but they don’t seem to come out fresh and sharp like new one’s? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Carlos

Bench grinder>>>green silicon wheel>>> 10-15% cobalt HSS sq blanks>>> bowl of water
First grinding takes the longest to get the proper relief angles on the side, top and end.
Don't over heat the blank by dipping in the water after each pass on the wheel.
You'll know if you're over heated>>> discolor will rear it's ugly head>>>not good.
If you're doing things the proper way you'll have a knife sharp edge that will last longer than just plain HSS.
When it gets dull ( I test the edge on my thumb nail...when it no longer shaves nail with ease it's time for a new edge.
New edge takes about 30-45 sec to create>>> back in business.
I use the green wheel because>>> less expensive than a good diamond wheel>>>works equally good on cobalt and carbide. Don't use it for anything else.
It's an art>>>learn it and you'll like yourself better.

OR....

Loosen screw>>>rotate insert>>>tight screw>>> back in business.

I have both types and use both types in the shop. They both have their place.
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
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For those who like to use high speed steel like myself. There is something being overlooked on the sharpening. Keeping the bit cool when grinding might sound like a good idea but if it gets hot while grinding and then you dip it in cold water it hardens the surface and makes the bit hold its sharp edge longer. That is why those of you who use diamond files have to keep sharpening so often.

Sharpening carbide is totally opposite and keeping it cool is better.
 
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tsp&b

Well-known member
Silver Member
For those who like to use high speed steel like myself. There is something being overlooked on the sharpening. Keeping the bit cool when grinding might sound like a good idea but if it gets hot while grinding and then you dip it in cold water it hardens the surface and makes the bit hold its sharp edge longer. That is why those of you who use diamond files have to keep sharpening so often.

Sharpening carbide is totally opposite and keeping it cool is better.

Absolutely correct!!!
 

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
Hard to hold on to when they get hot.
If you're using cobalt no need to get it any harder than it already is.
 
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