Pro Shaft Cleaning

rburgoyne

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I was talking to a friend last night who recently started doing tip & ferrule replacements, as well as shaft cleanings. He was talking about whether to use sandpaper, or a green scour pad to clean shafts. I've been searching the forum for a while now, but can't find anything about what the cue makers use to clean shafts on their lathes.
 

rtrdriver

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A cue maker I know said to use Mr. Clean Magic eraser to clean the shaft.

It works but without a lathe I have to use a lot of elbow grease. And then it still feels a little rough.

Another question I wanted to ask is how he gets them so slippery.

My guess is burnishing with leather.

Anybody know if that's good or not?
 

Tom1234

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Since I have a Midsize Cuesmith lathe, I use the cleaner, sealer and wax from Chris. Then I burnish with leather. Every once in a while I will use 2000 grit sandpaper to remove wax buildup. Use even this sandpaper with caution.
 

rburgoyne

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A cue maker I know said to use Mr. Clean Magic eraser to clean the shaft.

It works but without a lathe I have to use a lot of elbow grease. And then it still feels a little rough.

Another question I wanted to ask is how he gets them so slippery.

My guess is burnishing with leather.

Anybody know if that's good or not?

This is how I clean my shafts, as I don't have a lathe.

I use a dry magic eraser, (wet w/ denatured alcohol if real dirty)
Then I use a piece of leather to burnish it.
Then I apply a coat or two of Butchers Bowling Alley Wax for a slick finish.
 

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A cue maker I know said to use Mr. Clean Magic eraser to clean the shaft.

It works but without a lathe I have to use a lot of elbow grease. And then it still feels a little rough.

Another question I wanted to ask is how he gets them so slippery.

My guess is burnishing with leather.

Anybody know if that's good or not?

Having a lathe :)Make sure the shaft is dry before applying wax and all the eraser chemicals are gone. Leather works for burnishing or a sheet of paper.

Mario
 

Jon Manning

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Here is thread that popped up.
Surly your friend knows, but... don't ever assume the customer wants the shaft cleaned when changing tip/ferrule. Only clean the shaft when asked.

And, keep in mind if sandpaper, magic eraser, anything that strips the shaft is used, it needs to be re-sealed.

Personally I clean the shaft with a slightly damp cloth, then use a dry one to burnish.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=188985
 

Renegade_56

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This is how I clean my shafts, as I don't have a lathe.

I use a dry magic eraser, (wet w/ denatured alcohol if real dirty)
Then I use a piece of leather to burnish it.
Then I apply a coat or two of Butchers Bowling Alley Wax for a slick finish.

There is no need for a lathe to clean a shaft with magic eraser and DA. The point is to remove chalk and grime from the grain, which is not circular around the shaft, so clean it with the grain. It's much easier. Also, the DA and magic erasor will remove the sealer and wax to a degree at least, depending on how dirty the shaft was of course, and so it will feel rougher because now the grain has been opened, so after cleaning seal it well, let dry, then sand the sealer, not the wood. You can tell by the removed material on the sandpaper, if it's wood, the sandpaper is too course. Once it is smooth as you can get it with whatever sand paper you use,,,,,, I like steps from 600 to 4k,,,,,,,,, then wax it, and burnish the wax last. To burnish you should feel some heat in the burnish cloth, or leather,,,,,, this is important because it evaporates the petrol products from the wax faster, so the wax can harden faster. Heat, but not hot.
 
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