Electric bill for table heating
- Thread starter nataddrho
- Start date
You have to keep it plugged in
Takes 12 or more hrs to heat
Or use Royal pro cloth and heating is not needed
Takes 12 or more hrs to heat
Or use Royal pro cloth and heating is not needed
I leave mine plugged in all the time. Takes hardly any energy to keep it maintained at temperature, once it's heated up. I didn't notice any significant change in my electric bill.
Is the fluctuating temperature bad for the stones?
Some say yes. I am scientifically guessing no, since slate is subject to fluctuating temperatures everyday in its natural environment, and the thermal expansion of a 10' slate slab is on the order of thousands of an inch. Is this a good conclusion?
(Not that it relates much to table heating, but...)
Slate still in the ground experiences very little temperature variation. Here is the variation of temperatures versus depth in the ground versus time of year, taken from http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Cooling/time-lag-vs-depth.gif
You can see that the warmth of the summer is delayed until November at a 12-foot depth and the variation is seriously reduced. This means that the daily variation at that depth would be a small fraction of a degree.
From another site:
The 24-hour cycle of air temperatures disappears at a depth of one-half foot; five feet down, ground temperatures lag three months behind seasonal air temperatures. The lag is six months at 15 feet. Soil temperatures are constant below 30 feet, and, incidentally, about equal to the average annual air temperature.
I also have mind on a timer. Goes off at 7:30pm and goes on at 7am. My Gabriel
table I use Simonis Cloth because it last longer then any other cloth.
table I use Simonis Cloth because it last longer then any other cloth.
If I had a table and I was concerned about the cost, my first step would be to get an inch-thick quilt for the bed (when not in use) and an air-impermeable cover to put over it. Also, it might help to insulate the bottom or at least prevent air flow against the bottom of the table.
I think tables use up to 600 watts when heating up from a cold start. That would be about $40/month depending on the rates you pay if the heater ran continuously. That's a max and presumably goes down a lot after the table gets up to operating temperature. If you use electric heat in that part of the house, then it's free during the winter (but costs extra if you have air conditioning in the summer).
I think tables use up to 600 watts when heating up from a cold start. That would be about $40/month depending on the rates you pay if the heater ran continuously. That's a max and presumably goes down a lot after the table gets up to operating temperature. If you use electric heat in that part of the house, then it's free during the winter (but costs extra if you have air conditioning in the summer).
Heating and then allowing a table to cool over and over likely affects the entire table, if even slightly.
I don't know how it would affect the heating system itself though?
Pic of a table being built...
http://gclbilliards.com/tag/three-cushion-billiards/
I don't know how it would affect the heating system itself though?
Pic of a table being built...
http://gclbilliards.com/tag/three-cushion-billiards/
Well, it's good to know that there is at least one carom table in Great Britain although it doesn't appear to be in playable condition. Note that they didn't replace the rail cloth and I suspect that the heater is not plugged in.
The page shows how some carom heater systems work with the wire elements mounted on ceramic posts on plywood that is fitted under the slate, making a heated air space. The thing out on the coil is probably a thermometer for the control system.
I have a previous generation Gabriels with a heating system, though when compared to a friend's newest-gen table sold by Professor Q ball that has a professional-looking heat systems, mine appears to have been retrofitted with pressboard and scrap parts. Don't know if it got Frankensteined in the past ...
That said, I keep a KillAWatt meter on mine and am averaging ~ $20 / month to keep the table between 5 and 10 degrees above ambient temp. I'm in south Louisiana and don't keep my house all that cold, usually around 78 degrees so the table is staying somewhere between 83 and 90ish.
My heating system is 110 and not 220. Not sure if that matters for your calculations.
I will also note that the Gabriels rails stay at room temp and do not seem to grab any heat from the table bed. I've heard this can vary between manufacturers, with some of them heating the rails. Not sure firsthand how true that is ...
Any more questions, just ask.
That said, I keep a KillAWatt meter on mine and am averaging ~ $20 / month to keep the table between 5 and 10 degrees above ambient temp. I'm in south Louisiana and don't keep my house all that cold, usually around 78 degrees so the table is staying somewhere between 83 and 90ish.
My heating system is 110 and not 220. Not sure if that matters for your calculations.
I will also note that the Gabriels rails stay at room temp and do not seem to grab any heat from the table bed. I've heard this can vary between manufacturers, with some of them heating the rails. Not sure firsthand how true that is ...
Any more questions, just ask.
I also wonder what kind of cloth that is.
The British are fond of heavy cloth.
A club over there heard that I played a lot of pool and wanted me to try their table...
...they had a nine-foot Gandy with 42 oz directional nap cloth on it....
...I wouldn't hit a ball. :angry:
Basic Math
Average cost per 1000kw/hr is US is $0.15 per kwhr. I would not turn it on and off a PQB does but just let it run 24/7 until it burns out and I have to replace it. If your system draws 500 watts then that means in 24 hours you will have to pay for 12000 watts of power or 12 x 0.15 or around 1.80 USD a day. Plus your table will act as a heat sink ank help keep your house warm. I cant believe how many cheap charlies are out there that cannot do simple math.
Dennis Dieckman
Average cost per 1000kw/hr is US is $0.15 per kwhr. I would not turn it on and off a PQB does but just let it run 24/7 until it burns out and I have to replace it. If your system draws 500 watts then that means in 24 hours you will have to pay for 12000 watts of power or 12 x 0.15 or around 1.80 USD a day. Plus your table will act as a heat sink ank help keep your house warm. I cant believe how many cheap charlies are out there that cannot do simple math.
Dennis Dieckman
redcordes
New member
I have a Verhoeven 1993 heater at 240v/3A and output of 720 watts. It heats to a plus 15 deg. F in less than two hours, and I would think after the first hour the table would play fine. I use two "insulated" packing blankets for a cover, which must help.
redcordes
New member
How about this math. What do you think the thermostat does? My heat is on about 25% of the time, due to regulation by the thermostat. So I agree, most people can't do simple math problems.
My thermostat burned up on my soggard and it sat cold (room temp) for a few days before I noticed. Shortly after I got a new thermostat installed the seams shifted and I had to get them re done. I assume it was related to the temperature change.
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Sent from my iPad using AzBilliards Forums
redcordes
New member
I have to assume that the many, many carom rooms around the world are not paying to heat their tables off-hours. Mine has cycled cold from about 63 F degrees (in basement and quite constant) to about 75F many times-- two inch slate is a damn stable material. Also, I would imagine years ago, late 1800's and early 1900's, that tables were subject to 30 F changes of temp. frequently. I'm going to be pissed off if I'm wrong!
My table mech said it's not good for the table to have extremely temp swings.
I purchased a low profile, oil filled 700w heater that I placed directly under table middle, it sits nicely below the slate/framework.
Well, this cheap one didn't work out that well and after about a yr, had problems and all the round seams started talking.
I switched to a 400 w portable, under desk heater, works waaaaaaaaaaaaaay better.
Heats the play surface nicely, it's recommended to heat 40 sq. ft. perfect for a full size table.
This unit, almost Half the wattage, heats the table much better than the other brand.
It has less seams, areas of failure, and if it somehow gets tipped over, it auto shuts off.
Newair AH-400
I purchased a low profile, oil filled 700w heater that I placed directly under table middle, it sits nicely below the slate/framework.
Well, this cheap one didn't work out that well and after about a yr, had problems and all the round seams started talking.
I switched to a 400 w portable, under desk heater, works waaaaaaaaaaaaaay better.
Heats the play surface nicely, it's recommended to heat 40 sq. ft. perfect for a full size table.
This unit, almost Half the wattage, heats the table much better than the other brand.
It has less seams, areas of failure, and if it somehow gets tipped over, it auto shuts off.
Newair AH-400