From cuemaking to full fledge wood working

Chris Abaya Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So last week, I had the flu. I was bedridden and all I could do was watch woodworking videos on youtube. It is so cool looking at these guys do mortise and tenon and all the other stuff that they do. I've been watching videos from thewoodwhisperer and Jay Bates channel. Jay Bates used to do cue tips and ferrules before he ventured into full fledge wood working. From watching all those videos, I can't help but salivate over the tools that these guys have. So now I have the "urge" to venture outside of just cuemaking and into full wood working. I have a list of things I want, of course, more expensive things. :)

SawStop 1.75 HP Professional Table Saw w/30'' Fence, Rails, and Extension Table
1.5HP Mini Gorilla Portable Cyclone Dust Collector - Oneida Air Systems
Ridgid MS255SR 10 inch miter saw
Makita BO5041K Random Orbit sander
Dewalt DW734 Thickness Planer
Powermatic 54A Deluxe 6-Inch Jointer

I wouldn't mind getting Festools instead of some of the ones I have on the list. Sigh...

I know some or most of you are full fledge wood workers too. Is there any advice you can share with me regarding how to manage this hobby? I can barely afford cuemaking... now I am bitten by the "woodworking" bug... do I have a chance? :)
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
No money in woodworking.
Unless you make custom furniture.
 
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cubswin

Just call me Joe...
Silver Member
Dad has one of the sure stop saws, very nice. He does bowls, the occasional bookcase, cheese trays (which sell well), and a variety of other things out in his shop. Built some pretty nice skateboards with my nephew last year.

He has been collecting wood for a long time.
 

cuesdefuentes

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
you could start with making small boxes. should only require a bandsaw, a hand plane, and some chisels. if you want to be really impressed, check out Japanese joinery.
 

louieatienza

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
LOL I'm going in the opposite (and apparently, net same) direction. I'm a cabinetmaker by trade, but I got into framing, roofing and siding, wallboard, wood flooring, finish trim, floor and wall tile, masonry, paving. Even worked as a plumber and electrician at one time. I was a foreman for a building company and I'd be involved hands on with every phase of the project, and even made custom furniture for our clients. I dabbled with turning, and made a few simple cues when I still had a cabinet shop. All my stationary shop tools got sold, when I segued into home improvement. But I've made jewelry boxes, humidors, wooden toys, replicated carvings and turnings for furniture and home restorations, restored parts for a Model A Ford... I rarely said "no" to a job. Got into CNC over 20 years ago working as an engraver for an awards company, then a designer and fabricator for a sign company (where I ran a router and laser), and briefly for a commercial woodworking firm, and run a Bridgeport CNC conversion for a friend's metal shop. Built a few CNCs and retrofitted a couple mills. Cut everything on my CNC router from intake manifold risers to guitar bodies and necks. Worked in an accounting office for 5 years. Built and repaired computers. Hustled pool small time for a few years, and worked part-time at a pool hall. Manage the bar and do maintenance work at the local bowling alley. Drilled bowling balls. Built golf clubs. Built acoustic and electric guitars. Played guitar and keyboards in a band. Crocheted as a teenager. Collect coins, stamps, baseball cards, die-cast model cars... Won awards in high school for drawing. I've ran a 3-pack in 9-ball and 8-ball, hit a golf ball over 300 yards several times, and have bowled 11-in-a-row at least 10 times. Was once ranked 40th in the world in Golden Tee Golf.

So I need a new hobby...

As far as tools, it's easy to get carried away buying all this stuff, which you need a lot of space for, and then only using it occasionally. You know, when it collects more dust than it creates. My suggestion is to buy as needed, and you'll find it doesn't take long to acquire a lot of tools.

If you think power tool lust is bad, wait till you get your hands on some Lie-Nielson planes, some Japanese chisels, carving tools, and pull-saws... blow some cash on a Tomek sharpening system, so you can get that perfect micro-bevel on those chisels and planes. I still have hundreds of spring clamps in 5-6 sizes, an assortment of Jorgensen style clamps (just threw away 50 or so bar clamps), different sized hammers (Estwing just came out with a new aluminum-frame hammer that's awesome)

If anyone's interested, I have an original Woddpecker's precision router lift assembly, and an Incra Ultra Fence, along with a full set of dovetail and box joint templates and instruction manual...
 

pescadoman

Randy
Silver Member
So last week, I had the flu. I was bedridden and all I could do was watch woodworking videos on youtube. It is so cool looking at these guys do mortise and tenon and all the other stuff that they do. I've been watching videos from thewoodwhisperer and Jay Bates channel. Jay Bates used to do cue tips and ferrules before he ventured into full fledge wood working. From watching all those videos, I can't help but salivate over the tools that these guys have. So now I have the "urge" to venture outside of just cuemaking and into full wood working. I have a list of things I want, of course, more expensive things. :)

SawStop 1.75 HP Professional Table Saw w/30'' Fence, Rails, and Extension Table
1.5HP Mini Gorilla Portable Cyclone Dust Collector - Oneida Air Systems
Ridgid MS255SR 10 inch miter saw
Makita BO5041K Random Orbit sander
Dewalt DW734 Thickness Planer
Powermatic 54A Deluxe 6-Inch Jointer

I wouldn't mind getting Festools instead of some of the ones I have on the list. Sigh...

I know some or most of you are full fledge wood workers too. Is there any advice you can share with me regarding how to manage this hobby? I can barely afford cuemaking... now I am bitten by the "woodworking" bug... do I have a chance? :)

I'm qualified to chime in on the equipment.
1. search Craigslist and Ebay everyday and buy used. Neither are what they used to be, but perseverance will pay off eventually. Sawstops typically go for more than the usual 30-50% of retail that you'd normally pay for used. Occasionally, auctions will pay off but you almost always have to compete with crazy dealers. I have a buddy who bought all new Powermatic and spent a fortune. He paid over 3k for a PM2000 table saw(3hp single phase), while I bought mine for 900.00(5hp 3 phase) in like new shape. It's all made in Taiwan or China, so don't overlook Grizzly or Jet.

2. If it's at all possible, get the dust collector venting outside.
3. I have the Dewalt 735 planer that I found for 200.00 on CL
4. If you buy a jointer, go 8 inches or bigger.

5. Always be looking for Lista, Vidmar, and Rouseau cabinets. IMO, Lista makes the best workbenches but you can make one out of any 2 cabinets of the same height. Again, crazy dealers snatch nearly all these up at auction and resell for good margins, but OCCASIONALLY you can find some. A 2 cabinet workbench for 400.00 or less, as long as it's not beat to death, should provoke an "I'll take it" phone call. Last bench I bought had 3 full cabinets and a butcher's block for 300.00.

Regardless, be aware that even if you buy a 1.5 year old table saw, that many manufacturers won't honor their warranties if you can't produce a receipt, with your name on it, from an authorized dealer. It's a load of horse crap, but that's how the warranty on the "revered" Powermatics is written up. It wasn't a big deal, but the tab for the arbor lock and riving knife were both broken. It's as if they never made it...once they found out I was the second owner. They WERE nice enough to say they'd sell me the parts for more money than anywhere else though. Thank God car companies aren't allowed to do the same. For this reason, read as many reviews as you can about what you plan on buying. If you haven't already done so, join some woodworking forums and ask questions there as well.

Above all, I say buy used. There is always someone who thought they'd use their equipment, then decided to just get rid of it.
 

PoppaSaun

Banned
So last week, I had the flu. I was bedridden and all I could do was watch woodworking videos on youtube. It is so cool looking at these guys do mortise and tenon and all the other stuff that they do. I've been watching videos from thewoodwhisperer and Jay Bates channel. Jay Bates used to do cue tips and ferrules before he ventured into full fledge wood working. From watching all those videos, I can't help but salivate over the tools that these guys have. So now I have the "urge" to venture outside of just cuemaking and into full wood working. I have a list of things I want, of course, more expensive things. :)

SawStop 1.75 HP Professional Table Saw w/30'' Fence, Rails, and Extension Table
1.5HP Mini Gorilla Portable Cyclone Dust Collector - Oneida Air Systems
Ridgid MS255SR 10 inch miter saw
Makita BO5041K Random Orbit sander
Dewalt DW734 Thickness Planer
Powermatic 54A Deluxe 6-Inch Jointer

I wouldn't mind getting Festools instead of some of the ones I have on the list. Sigh...

I know some or most of you are full fledge wood workers too. Is there any advice you can share with me regarding how to manage this hobby? I can barely afford cuemaking... now I am bitten by the "woodworking" bug... do I have a chance? :)

If you buy the SawStop, Ridgid miteer saw, or dewalt planer, you are spending money on trash.

Buy a used Unisaw. 5hp preferred, but 3hp is good.
Buy Bosch miter saw.
Look for old powermatic planer. Old delta or rockwell is good, too.
 

louieatienza

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If you buy the SawStop, Ridgid miteer saw, or dewalt planer, you are spending money on trash.

Buy a used Unisaw. 5hp preferred, but 3hp is good.
Buy Bosch miter saw.
Look for old powermatic planer. Old delta or rockwell is good, too.

Only thing I don't like about the Unisaw is that the arbor tilts inward towards the fence. When you're cutting something like French cleats for wall cabinets, and it binds on the blade and shoots back75 feet and goes through a layer of sheet rock, you'll think twice about it.

The Bosch miter saw with the Sarrus mechanism is ultra cool and great if you can't have a lot of stick-out, but it's still too expensive.

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I will say, if you're going to be building cabinetry, and don't have a lot of space, forego the stationary table saw and instead get a track saw. I used to break down skids of plywood, MDF, melamine (which leaves razor sharp edges) and wrestling with a 4 x 8 sheet on a non-sliding table saw is no fun. taking tool to material saves your body.
 
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PoppaSaun

Banned
Only thing I don't like about the Unisaw is that the arbor tilts inward towards the fence. When you're cutting something like French cleats for wall cabinets, and it binds on the blade and shoots back75 feet and goes through a layer of sheet rock, you'll think twice about it.

The Bosch miter saw with the Sarrus mechanism is ultra cool and great if you can't have a lot of stick-out, but it's still too expensive.

------------------------------------------------------------

I will say, if you're going to be building cabinetry, and don't have a lot of space, forego the stationary table saw and instead get a track saw. I used to break down skids of plywood, MDF, melamine (which leaves razor sharp edges) and wrestling with a 4 x 8 sheet on a non-sliding table saw is no fun. taking tool to material saves your body.

They have made the unisaw in left-tilt for nearly 30yrs and I've never hurt myself with the right-tilt.
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I do some work together with a cabinetmaker and we have found that it benefits both of us. And I`m looking into doing more wood and metal stuff in the future. I think there is a market for quality made pieces, if you just find the right places to promote your stuff.
 

greyghost

Coast to Coast
Silver Member
if your building custom furniture.....do yourself and your customers a favor and dont use wood glue. I could be preaching to the choir as were cuemakers lol.....it just DOES NOT CREATE A LASTING BOND.......then if you go to fix it, nothing really sticks well to wood soaked in wood glue, not even wood glue, CA sticks best.....but way to rigid to hold.

For things that will never move like a cabinet this is ok, because you dont stress joints......i'm sure you have all seen a rocking chair or two or tired to fix one with this problem.

Glad as hell my grandfathers teaching chair that was made in the 40s out of live oak was done with HORSEHIDE GLUE......woulda been a shame and a 10 times the pain to resto.
-Greyghost
 

Hollismason

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It would seem that since you have very sought after exotic woods that making pen blanks and creating higher end fountain pens would be a good side "job" to making cue sticks. A friend of mine only makes these custom fountain pens, along with doing some other leather working etc.. and she seems to be making out all right. I'm sure you have some pieces of wood that may be "left over".

Pen Blanks are generally 3/4'' x 3/4'' x 6''. Which really isn't that large a piece of wood.

She sells on Etsy

https://www.etsy.com/market/custom_fountain_pen
 
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louieatienza

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
if your building custom furniture.....do yourself and your customers a favor and dont use wood glue. I could be preaching to the choir as were cuemakers lol.....it just DOES NOT CREATE A LASTING BOND.......then if you go to fix it, nothing really sticks well to wood soaked in wood glue, not even wood glue, CA sticks best.....but way to rigid to hold.

For things that will never move like a cabinet this is ok, because you dont stress joints......i'm sure you have all seen a rocking chair or two or tired to fix one with this problem.

Glad as hell my grandfathers teaching chair that was made in the 40s out of live oak was done with HORSEHIDE GLUE......woulda been a shame and a 10 times the pain to resto.
-Greyghost

I do lije HHG a lot and advicate it whenever possible, but for some projects it's all but impractical. And I'm not talking about that junk in the squeeze bottle. If tge area you're gluing is not warmed, as your parts, the HHG will skin over, and you'll have to wipe it all off and start over again. I can't imagine doing a carcass for a bureau, let alone a smaller assembly.

Back in the old days at the Martin guitar factory, they actually had a "hot room" for glue ups, and it was literalky hot.
 

greyghost

Coast to Coast
Silver Member
I do lije HHG a lot and advicate it whenever possible, but for some projects it's all but impractical. And I'm not talking about that junk in the squeeze bottle. If tge area you're gluing is not warmed, as your parts, the HHG will skin over, and you'll have to wipe it all off and start over again. I can't imagine doing a carcass for a bureau, let alone a smaller assembly.



Back in the old days at the Martin guitar factory, they actually had a "hot room" for glue ups, and it was literalky hot.



Great post!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Chris Abaya Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I realized that I cannot afford the SawStop table saw - or any of the cabinet saws for that matter so I decided to go for a portable saw - Dewalt DWE7491RS. I was looking for a decent saw that can use dado blades . It is also smaller than a cabinet saw which is more important to me because I don't have space in my 2 car garage workshop - half of which is occupied by a 9 foot table.

I also bought a small benchtop jointer, a Dewalt thickness planer and a Makita track saw. I just finished setting up my jointer and it was awesome to finally see a squared up 2x4 :D It's a pain to build a pretty workbench with the regular 2x4 at home depot.

I feel like a kid in a candy store - so excited with all these new tools... but I should really get back to cuemaking... I haven't turned wood in about a month now. I suppose it's better for the wood anyway.

I can't wait to organize my garage and build workbenches with drawers and cabinets to store my smaller tools. The possibilities are endless!

I love my wife for allowing me to purchase all this stuff... Happy Mother's day! :thumbup:
 

louieatienza

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I realized that I cannot afford the SawStop table saw - or any of the cabinet saws for that matter so I decided to go for a portable saw - Dewalt DWE7491RS. I was looking for a decent saw that can use dado blades . It is also smaller than a cabinet saw which is more important to me because I don't have space in my 2 car garage workshop - half of which is occupied by a 9 foot table.

I also bought a small benchtop jointer, a Dewalt thickness planer and a Makita track saw. I just finished setting up my jointer and it was awesome to finally see a squared up 2x4 :D It's a pain to build a pretty workbench with the regular 2x4 at home depot.

I feel like a kid in a candy store - so excited with all these new tools... but I should really get back to cuemaking... I haven't turned wood in about a month now. I suppose it's better for the wood anyway.

I can't wait to organize my garage and build workbenches with drawers and cabinets to store my smaller tools. The possibilities are endless!

I love my wife for allowing me to purchase all this stuff... Happy Mother's day! :thumbup:

I think one of your first projects should be a pair of saw horses; they come in handy as infeed/outfeed supports when cutting plywood and other long boards.

Some tips for your table saw...

Make a zero clearance insert. I use a high-density fiberboard such as Masonite (preferably smooth both sides) in 1/4". It really helps with keeping clean cuts on the top and bottom. Also, it helps when cutting thin stock, as it won't fall into or get stuck on the rather large slot that comes with the stock insert.

If you need super-fine wood cuts, try Freud's Diablo 7-1/4" circular saw blades in 40 and 60 teeth. They have an .063" kerf, so they never bind. They also leave an incredibly smooth surface. I actually use these to cut veneers for guitar bindings and purflings, even up to .035" thickness, with a contractor's saw... on the fence side!

Get to know the different blade types - triple chip grind, tri grind, alternate top bevel, high angle alternate top bevel, flat grind... each one has a material and purpose. When you start lusting over saw blades from Forrest, Leitz, Amana, Inifnity... you've gone off the deep end... I've never tried the variable pitch stuff yet, but they work great in endmills....

Back in the day they used copper plugs to suppress noise and vibration in blades. Now they have laser cut slots shaped to mitigate noise and relieve stress in the plate. The multi-purpose blades with the large slots and open holes are a lot noisier, and will vibrate more, which you'll see in the cut edge.

Make sure your dado set has a set of shims too. Most all plywood goods come undersized. Most composite stuff usually are pretty close. Baltic birch comes in metric. This way you'll always have tight joints when doing case work, drawer bottoms, etc...
 
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