Just installed a pin in a cue I'm making with a piloted 5/16x14 pin. What tips or tricks can you share to not fill that space with epoxy when you put the pin in.
glue in piloted hole
- Thread starter jokers_wild96
- Start date
Don't use excessive glue to begin with, but if you do get buildup inside the pilot error you can easily remove it with a drill bit, likely by hand, after the glue has kicked.
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Well after installing pin number 2 on the other cue used less. Still got epoxy in hole. Let me ask this, do you put epoxy on the centering barrel on the pin. Because when I push the pin in that's where it all scrapes off and gathers in the hole.
Screw the pin 2/3 in. Unscrew the pin, clean the hole, wipe off excess epoxy and screw in the pin, you should be good :smile:
Just put the glue on the wood. When you put the pin in it will move the glue down not up the pin.
You guys sure make it complicated.
Whats your method Joey?
The really complicated cue tip and air blower that nobody uses , I guess.
Told him about and he didn't even try it .
Still asked how to get the epoxy out on his second go at it .
How the hell do you use a drill bit to remove wet epoxy ?
Why use less epoxy? Try to observe the epoxy that comes out of the channel.
Some of it will actually still go back down the hole after a while . If you use a slow setting epoxy, that is. You want that epoxy to pop.
You then clean up the excess with wet ( thinner ) qtip after the epoxy has started to flash .
Clean and blow after that.
Joey, the first pin was done yesterday and your reply wasn't up by the time I did the second one today.
. Tommy D.OK, I'll bite,,,,I specifically said "kicked" epoxy by the way,,,,,,,, any buildup of epoxy that is not in the actual joint is excess, and serves no purpose other than something to clean up later, therefore, why use more than you need. But since you are doing it,,, that same epoxy has no mechanical bond to anything, since it is not in the joint, and so it is only hardened with a chemical reaction and is therefore weak and brittle. Running a properly sized drill thru the center of the insert can easily chip this brittle epoxy away.
My question to you,,,,,,, why in hell would you put a chemical that breaks down epoxy, in a joint that has been epoxied, to remove epoxy?
1st. It doesn't take much epoxy to do the job.
2nd. Did you ever see Barbeque squers. I think they are 3 or 4 inches long. Works perfect.
3rd. I'm not opening a can of worms. But the type epoxy makes a difference. 25 years ago. I used 5 minute. Today I don't and I wouldn't. You use what ever you want. My decisions are purely based on my own experiences and choices.
4th. Seeing 80 percent of my recessed joints are uni loc quick release. If I have glue in the recess. I pull the screw, clean it and start over. What's one day in the bigger picture.
5th. Drilling a hole in the forearm for excess glue to escape, then plug it? I wouldn't do that if you paid me to. And if you were in my shop and suggested it. I'd throw you out. I'm a *****. No surprise there.
Hope this helps.
Who said anything about that?
The chemical in the swab only removes the epoxy that got on the face, exposed screw and the collar wall.
Not inside down the joint screw.
Who said anything about insert? He's asking about the joint screw of a piloted joint.
seems to me he's asking about excess epoxy in the hole, in the insert, where the pilot on the pin slips in. Am I wrong?
Machine your cue to ACCURATELY receive the pin. If your machining is precise, your pin will fit center, clean, and with no excessive voids. Void space should be filled with pin, not glue. If done properly, you need but only a small dab of glue inside the hole, not on the pin, to act as thread lock. All the strength and integrity will be due to a precise mechanical bond, with no hydraulic pressure at the bottom of the hole, and no excess glue to clean up at the face.
Needing excess glue, or any glue at all for strength is a symptom of poor machining/sloppy fit. If you feel the need for excessive glue for "insurance", it means you lack confidence in your ability to properly execute a joint pin install. When you fit a joint pin so well that you know it has strength, integrity, and continuity, then all you need is a tiny dab of glue to act as thread lock. It prevents the pin from threading in or out. Proper machining dictates that the pin will hold center regardless of position, so the glue technically serves no purpose aside from holding it in assigned position.
Needing excess glue, or any glue at all for strength is a symptom of poor machining/sloppy fit. If you feel the need for excessive glue for "insurance", it means you lack confidence in your ability to properly execute a joint pin install. When you fit a joint pin so well that you know it has strength, integrity, and continuity, then all you need is a tiny dab of glue to act as thread lock. It prevents the pin from threading in or out. Proper machining dictates that the pin will hold center regardless of position, so the glue technically serves no purpose aside from holding it in assigned position.
Post 10. Follow the link. :thumbup:
My original post was harsh and I admit it. What I think is good or no good for me, doesn't mean it doesn't work.
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I am in the same camp as Mase and qbilder, the right amount of glue and putting it on the right side works for me. I put the glue in the hole on a pin and on the insert when doing the shaft. If some glue comes out around the pin I clean it out as best I can with a cue tip and some solvent. Practice will give you a feel for knowing how much glue to use. As to cleaning out the insert I also do as Renegade does and clean out the hole with a drill and chasing it with a bottoming tap.