Haha hey Mike, if only it were that simple.
Actually, it's just like Mike described.
Haha hey Mike, if only it were that simple.
Haha thats a a nice story , i got ur drift.
But do bear in mind we are human beings and its in our most basic nature to over complicate n mess things up most of the time loll.
Then again, i wldnt mind jusy being the cue n if i dont like the feel just sell it .
Thanks
Well $hit , I guess I should say good luck.
I am not a predator fan because I have worked on they're shafts
But your the customer and if you like the way they're shafts play then I am happy for you ... think you might have a fever or msha or something but hey if your happy we are all happy......
Best of luck
We all do it! :thumbup:
I have done it with Harleys and bikes in general....too often. :grin:
But I have a hard time selling...hence I have six motorcycles in my garage..... :grin:
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Mike , believe me, whenever anyone ask for recommendation on LD shafts, i have never offered predator.
I detest the fact that it is laminated n not solid maple.
In fact , i always offer Mezz which is definitely top of the production chain in terms of fit finish n quality, one piece solid maple.
And Keith Josey's shaft too.
Never once offered predator.
However , i tried a pred shaft on my custom n never look back, been playing the best pool of my life even knowing predator's cons.
For me at this stage, play with what u like best man.
My 2 cents and thanks to everyone for sharing.
I really appreciate ur time n i've gotten a much better picture on my options !
Send it to Seyberts, the largest Predator dealer in the world and they will make your dream happen.
Sorry , i wasnt clear.Um, you consider Keith Josey's shafts to be low deflection? Have you ever played with a Josey?
No disrespect intended but changing out the uni loc is quite easy and with a torch too. The screw sits in 2 5/16 deep. A Radial screw sits approx. 2 1/8 and with the lead on the tap. No problems. Standard 3/8x10 also easily done.
Mr. Morales
If you are going to buy a Predator full cue. Why not just get one with a Radial joint screw and avoid the extra cost, labor, and possible aggravation?
What I was thinking, and BTW I have a Mustang, but only a '68 convertible with 302.Chevy man at auto shop:
I just bought this brand new Shelby Mustang, but I am a Chevy guy. The torque curve feels better on a Chevy Camaro to me.
The Mustang motor has 1 less horsepower at 3800RPM. And The Chevy has 4 more foot pounds of torque at 2200 RPM. The power curve analysis on these as published in Rich Car Enthusiast Magazine demonstrated a slightly better curve on the dyno for the Chevy. On top of that I hate the way the #3 valve feels when it closes on the Ford motor at 4100RPM. It just does not feel organic like the Chevy motor.
So, can you put the Chevy motor in my Mustang?
Mechanic: Yes.
Chevy Man: Will it be expensive?
Mechanic: How much money you got?
Chevy Man: Will it be complicated?
Mechanic: No problem. How much money you got?
Chevy Man: How fast will it be?
Mechanic: How much money you got?
Chevy Man: Will it feel like a Chevy?
Mechanic: Whatever helps you sleep at night.
Chevy Man: Will it void the warranty?
Mechanic: Yup.
Chevy Man: Who will service it if it needs work?
Mechanic: I will, but likely nobody else will want to touch it.
Chevy Man: When can you start?
Mechanic: How much money you got?
Chevy Man: How long will it take?
Mechanic: How much money you got?
One year later the Chevy Man is posting his woes in a car forum after having gone back and forth with Mechanic who still has the car...which has been cut in half for almost a year and sits up on blocks.
The Chevy Man finally gets the car three days before he dies of old age.
The Chevy Man finds himself in heaven where Carroll Shelby beats the daylights out of him with the tie rod from a Shelby GT500 before branding a Cobra logo on his forehead.
There is always some guy in the neighborhood that tries to put a 426 Hemi in a Chevette. One in a hundred succeeds...the rest eventually sell off the parts or die trying.
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
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What does that mean... SKODA ..? Guido Orlandi lives in Michigan, he is an American & a great Cue maker...
No offense taken Michael. It's simple to change the pin and joint collar when you have all the tools. To me it sounded almost like Cesar was considering doing the job himself. Knowing that the difference of a thou is what separates a good job from a bad one, and how much care and attention must be used to get a perfect result, i still dont classify a joint pin change or collar change a simple job. Changing a tip, that's a simple job.
Anyways as you said it's a fairly expensive job and might not be worth it on a cheap production cue.
That would depend on, if you've ever done 1, or 100. Lol
Of course, practice makes perfect and each pin has it`s spesifications.
You still need the right equipment, set up the right way to be able to do a good job.
And if you need to change the joint collar, that certainly makes the whole operation more time consuming. The big question then is; is it worth it?
I have another customer who wanted to do very similar things to his $400 Lucasi cue.
He also wanted to switch out the handle with another type hanldle and extend the buttcap.
When you need to do so much deconstruction to something that might be better to build from scratch, the way the customer want`s it in the first place, it`s often not a project worth taking on.