Help : Changing joint n pin !!!

Cezar Morales

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey there, i have been using various custom cues but with predator shafts, i like predator shaft but i dont care for predator butt n the uniloc pin, i still prefer the feel of REAL WOOD in my cue butt rather than some unknown composite material, it just feels better to me.
Also i prefer a wood to wood joint feel.

Recently, i kinda fell in love with the looks of a traditional 4 pointer that predator has launch so im thinking about buying my 1st predator cue.

However , may i ask how hard it is n is it worth sending it to a cuemaker n have him replace the implex metal joint to wood to wood joint n change the uniloc pin to replace it with a wood to wood joint ?

An azer has actually posted pictures of him changing the metal joint in his predator full splice to wood to wood with a 3-8/10 joint so im wondering if its really easy to do it n the cost of it ?

Please, share your opinion graciously n if u have done it bf , pls share it in detail n who have u sent it to.

Thanks
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey there, i have been using various custom cues but with predator shafts, i like predator shaft but i dont care for predator butt n the uniloc pin, i still prefer the feel of REAL WOOD in my cue butt rather than some unknown composite material, it just feels better to me.
Also i prefer a wood to wood joint feel.

Recently, i kinda fell in love with the looks of a traditional 4 pointer that predator has launch so im thinking about buying my 1st predator cue.

However , may i ask how hard it is n is it worth sending it to a cuemaker n have him replace the implex metal joint to wood to wood joint n change the uniloc pin to replace it with a wood to wood joint ?

An azer has actually posted pictures of him changing the metal joint in his predator full splice to wood to wood with a 3-8/10 joint so im wondering if its really easy to do it n the cost of it ?

Please, share your opinion graciously n if u have done it bf , pls share it in detail n who have u sent it to.

Thanks

Yes it's complicated job and you need the right equipment.
Removing tthe steel joint collar and replacing it with Juma or a similar material, means a refinish of the forearm.
 

Cezar Morales

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Yes it's complicated job and you need the right equipment.
Removing tthe steel joint collar and replacing it with Juma or a similar material, means a refinish of the forearm.


Wow, sounds expensive.

I tot its gonna be straight forward having a cuemaker to extract the pin n replace with another pin.

What about if i retain the joint but just switch the pin ?

I dont like the thoughts of uni loc in my cue as i heard stories of how easily it comes loose during play.
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Which predtor shaft ?

Hey there, i have been using various custom cues but with predator shafts, i like predator shaft but i dont care for predator butt n the uniloc pin, i still prefer the feel of REAL WOOD in my cue butt rather than some unknown composite material, it just feels better to me.
Also i prefer a wood to wood joint feel.

Recently, i kinda fell in love with the looks of a traditional 4 pointer that predator has launch so im thinking about buying my 1st predator cue.

However , may i ask how hard it is n is it worth sending it to a cuemaker n have him replace the implex metal joint to wood to wood joint n change the uniloc pin to replace it with a wood to wood joint ?

An azer has actually posted pictures of him changing the metal joint in his predator full splice to wood to wood with a 3-8/10 joint so im wondering if its really easy to do it n the cost of it ?

Please, share your opinion graciously n if u have done it bf , pls share it in detail n who have u sent it to.

Thanks

depending on which predator shaft , you can buy predator shaft blank and have it fitted to your choice of wood to wood joint .
Pretty much any cue repairmen can handle this .
As switching the pin in the butt ,,, I would pass on that as being a cue repairman .


Not to side track your thread ,, but as of being user friendly and sensible have you given Bob Danielson laminated shafts a try or thought .

I am not a laminated shaft fan, but if I didn't have some lathes and wanted to use a laminated shaft I would be getting in touch with Bob D....

Not the answer you want I am sure , but Bobs backs his shafts and the stuff he makes ... and his shop is in the USA ....
 

ceebee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Sending a Cue to Guido Orlandi

Hey there, i have been using various custom cues but with predator shafts, i like predator shaft but i dont care for predator butt n the uniloc pin, i still prefer the feel of REAL WOOD in my cue butt rather than some unknown composite material, it just feels better to me.
Also i prefer a wood to wood joint feel.

Recently, i kinda fell in love with the looks of a traditional 4 pointer that predator has launch so im thinking about buying my 1st predator cue.

However , may i ask how hard it is n is it worth sending it to a cuemaker n have him replace the implex metal joint to wood to wood joint n change the uniloc pin to replace it with a wood to wood joint ?

An azer has actually posted pictures of him changing the metal joint in his predator full splice to wood to wood with a 3-8/10 joint so im wondering if its really easy to do it n the cost of it ?

Please, share your opinion graciously n if u have done it bf , pls share it in detail n who have u sent it to.

Thanks

If you were going to send your Cue, to Guido Orlandi, to get his Conical Joint installed, I say yes.


http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=409309

3rd post down....
 

td873

C is for Cookie
Silver Member
I suspect it would be better to buy a new cue to ensure integrity of the materials and the hit of the cue. IMO, there's little to be gained by deconstructing a cue and then Frankensteining it back together in another form.

-td
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Wow, sounds expensive.

I tot its gonna be straight forward having a cuemaker to extract the pin n replace with another pin.

What about if i retain the joint but just switch the pin ?

I dont like the thoughts of uni loc in my cue as i heard stories of how easily it comes loose during play.

It's a delicate job, and not one without the risk of failiure.
The Uni-Loc pin sits very deep, so using a torch is out of the question. A soldering iron might work, but an iduction heater is really what you need. Those run around $500. I would charge a premium, to help recoup my costs. When the pin is extraxted you need to bore, ream and plug the hole and insert a wood dowel, glue in in place with epoxy, then drill and bore a .302" hole for the 3/8-10 pin, install it and make sure its "dead nuts"
 

Chopdoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Chevy man at auto shop:

I just bought this brand new Shelby Mustang, but I am a Chevy guy. The torque curve feels better on a Chevy Camaro to me.

The Mustang motor has 1 less horsepower at 3800RPM. And The Chevy has 4 more foot pounds of torque at 2200 RPM. The power curve analysis on these as published in Rich Car Enthusiast Magazine demonstrated a slightly better curve on the dyno for the Chevy. On top of that I hate the way the #3 valve feels when it closes on the Ford motor at 4100RPM. It just does not feel organic like the Chevy motor.

So, can you put the Chevy motor in my Mustang?

Mechanic: Yes.

Chevy Man: Will it be expensive?

Mechanic: How much money you got?

Chevy Man: Will it be complicated?

Mechanic: No problem. How much money you got?

Chevy Man: How fast will it be?

Mechanic: How much money you got?

Chevy Man: Will it feel like a Chevy?

Mechanic: Whatever helps you sleep at night.

Chevy Man: Will it void the warranty?

Mechanic: Yup.

Chevy Man: Who will service it if it needs work?

Mechanic: I will, but likely nobody else will want to touch it.

Chevy Man: When can you start?

Mechanic: How much money you got?

Chevy Man: How long will it take?

Mechanic: How much money you got?



One year later the Chevy Man is posting his woes in a car forum after having gone back and forth with Mechanic who still has the car...which has been cut in half for almost a year and sits up on blocks.

The Chevy Man finally gets the car three days before he dies of old age.

The Chevy Man finds himself in heaven where Carroll Shelby beats the daylights out of him with the tie rod from a Shelby GT500 before branding a Cobra logo on his forehead.


There is always some guy in the neighborhood that tries to put a 426 Hemi in a Chevette. One in a hundred succeeds...the rest eventually sell off the parts or die trying.




:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:





.
.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It's a delicate job, and not one without the risk of failiure.
The Uni-Loc pin sits very deep, so using a torch is out of the question. A soldering iron might work, but an iduction heater is really what you need. Those run around $500. I would charge a premium, to help recoup my costs. When the pin is extraxted you need to bore, ream and plug the hole and insert a wood dowel, glue in in place with epoxy, then drill and bore a .302" hole for the 3/8-10 pin, install it and make sure its "dead nuts"


No disrespect intended but changing out the uni loc is quite easy and with a torch too. The screw sits in 2 5/16 deep. A Radial screw sits approx. 2 1/8 and with the lead on the tap. No problems. Standard 3/8x10 also easily done.

Mr. Morales
If you are going to buy a Predator full cue. Why not just get one with a Radial joint screw and avoid the extra cost, labor, and possible aggravation?
 

Cezar Morales

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
No disrespect intended but changing out the uni loc is quite easy and with a torch too. The screw sits in 2 5/16 deep. A Radial screw sits approx. 2 1/8 and with the lead on the tap. No problems. Standard 3/8x10 also easily done.

Mr. Morales
If you are going to buy a Predator full cue. Why not just get one with a Radial joint screw and avoid the extra cost, labor, and possible aggravation?


Haha hey Mike, if only it were that simple.

Basically, i hate the looks of almost all predator cues but i do like their shafts.
Finally they launched a traditional 4 pointer w veneers BUT IT ONLY COMES IN UNILOC so im thinking bout getting it to try the whole predator experience.

Would u do the job ?

Thanks for sharing
 
Last edited:

Cezar Morales

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
depending on which predator shaft , you can buy predator shaft blank and have it fitted to your choice of wood to wood joint .
Pretty much any cue repairmen can handle this .
As switching the pin in the butt ,,, I would pass on that as being a cue repairman .


Not to side track your thread ,, but as of being user friendly and sensible have you given Bob Danielson laminated shafts a try or thought .

I am not a laminated shaft fan, but if I didn't have some lathes and wanted to use a laminated shaft I would be getting in touch with Bob D....

Not the answer you want I am sure , but Bobs backs his shafts and the stuff he makes ... and his shop is in the USA ....


Thanks for ur advice.
I have been buying em blanks n sending to my cm's in the past becoz i hate the looks of prefator cues.
However they launch a new model which is a traditional 4 pointer which is pretty nice so im thinking bout buying it but i hate the uniloc n metal joint so im wondering if its easy to change the pin n joint.

I tried my fren's bob d ss360 shaft, i wld say its a tad soft for my liking but i tried just 1 so it doesnt really mean anything.
 

Cezar Morales

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Chevy man at auto shop:

I just bought this brand new Shelby Mustang, but I am a Chevy guy. The torque curve feels better on a Chevy Camaro to me.

The Mustang motor has 1 less horsepower at 3800RPM. And The Chevy has 4 more foot pounds of torque at 2200 RPM. The power curve analysis on these as published in Rich Car Enthusiast Magazine demonstrated a slightly better curve on the dyno for the Chevy. On top of that I hate the way the #3 valve feels when it closes on the Ford motor at 4100RPM. It just does not feel organic like the Chevy motor.

So, can you put the Chevy motor in my Mustang?

Mechanic: Yes.

Chevy Man: Will it be expensive?

Mechanic: How much money you got?

Chevy Man: Will it be complicated?

Mechanic: No problem. How much money you got?

Chevy Man: How fast will it be?

Mechanic: How much money you got?

Chevy Man: Will it feel like a Chevy?

Mechanic: Whatever helps you sleep at night.

Chevy Man: Will it void the warranty?

Mechanic: Yup.

Chevy Man: Who will service it if it needs work?

Mechanic: I will, but likely nobody else will want to touch it.

Chevy Man: When can you start?

Mechanic: How much money you got?

Chevy Man: How long will it take?

Mechanic: How much money you got?



One year later the Chevy Man is posting his woes in a car forum after having gone back and forth with Mechanic who still has the car...which has been cut in half for almost a year and sits up on blocks.

The Chevy Man finally gets the car three days before he dies of old age.

The Chevy Man finds himself in heaven where Carroll Shelby beats the daylights out of him with the tie rod from a Shelby GT500 before branding a Cobra logo on his forehead.


There is always some guy in the neighborhood that tries to put a 426 Hemi in a Chevette. One in a hundred succeeds...the rest eventually sell off the parts or die trying.




:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:





.
.

Haha thats a a nice story , i got ur drift.

But do bear in mind we are human beings and its in our most basic nature to over complicate n mess things up most of the time loll.

Then again, i wldnt mind jusy being the cue n if i dont like the feel just sell it .
Thanks
 

HereWeGo

♬·¯·♩¸¸♪·¯·♫♬·¯·♩
Silver Member
I had this pin changed from a 3/8-10 to a uniloc. Longest part of the process was letting the epoxy dry. Pin was heated and removed with no damage to the joint or finish. Cost was also extremely reasonable but I don't want to set a false expectations as I know cost is different everywhere.

R2.jpg
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
If you were going to send your Cue, to Guido Orlandi, to get his Conical Joint installed, I say yes.


http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=409309

3rd post down....

That has more synthetics in the joint.
He wants less plastic in there.

Would Guido even do it on imports?
Those cues have .840" joint size. And they've been sanded to match already.
Who knows how you are going to indicate them and re-install a joint screw and collar without taking down the joint size?
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Haha hey Mike, if only it were that simple.

Basically, i hate the looks of almost all predator cues but i do like their shafts.
Finally they launched a traditional 4 pointer w veneers BUT IT ONLY COMES IN UNILOC so im thinking bout getting it to try the whole predator experience.

Would u do the job ?

Thanks for sharing

Buy a partial and send it to a cue maker then.
 

maha

from way back when
Silver Member
why take a production cue and spend a lot on it. if you like their shafts so much then buy a few and have a custom maker make a butt to fit just as you want it.

generally as you get better at the game you find out the cue isnt as important as you thought. just getting used to it in a few hours is all it takes.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Haha hey Mike, if only it were that simple.

Basically, i hate the looks of almost all predator cues but i do like their shafts.
Finally they launched a traditional 4 pointer w veneers BUT IT ONLY COMES IN UNILOC so im thinking bout getting it to try the whole predator experience.

Would u do the job ?

Thanks for sharing

My rule to being a member on this forum is. I don't knowingly do work for AZer's. It interferes with me enjoying being a member. I got side tracked once in my thinking. That will never happen again. But Please don't let anyone fool you. What your asking in work to be done, is not really inexpensive but it is not complicated at all.
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Shafts

Thanks for ur advice.
I have been buying em blanks n sending to my cm's in the past becoz i hate the looks of prefator cues.
However they launch a new model which is a traditional 4 pointer which is pretty nice so im thinking bout buying it but i hate the uniloc n metal joint so im wondering if its easy to change the pin n joint.

I tried my fren's bob d ss360 shaft, i wld say its a tad soft for my liking but i tried just 1 so it doesnt really mean anything.

Well $hit , I guess I should say good luck.
I am not a predator fan because I have worked on they're shafts :rolleyes:
But your the customer and if you like the way they're shafts play then I am happy for you ... think you might have a fever or msha or something but hey if your happy we are all happy......

Best of luck
 
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