I believe the old Hoppe Pro wrap is a finished leather, the solvents in the polish will remove that finish I believe.
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The History of Cue Cases?
- Thread starter JB Cases
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I believe the old Hoppe Pro wrap is a finished leather, the solvents in the polish will remove that finish I believe.
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I would argue with you about this (finishing it in polished smooth) except you sound like you know what you are talking about, and it is something that I would sure like to know how to do.
I would argue with you because suede is a different cut of leather than the smooth leather, and supposedly cannot be given the 'smooth leather' look. You can get on the internet as I have and google how to make suede smooth, and you will find that it can't be done, and convincing reasons why. Of course, that isn't necessarily accurate information, but that's what I found when trying to figure out how to make a black suede case smooth. Mine is a Centennial that looks 'okay', but not 'great'. I am not a suede fan.
Looking forward to seeing pics of your fix-up and a description of what you did. Thanks.
The Kiwi shoe polish ruins these wraps. I have had several old ones that had never been touched by shoe polish, and they are as supple and gorgeous as today's wraps. But shoe polish was the way everyone went with these, so it's tough to find one that hasn't been trashed.
It can indeed leach the color out...depending on the leather.
Generally I recommend putting color in and then polish on top, if needed....
There are many reasons I am not a fan of veg tan. Obviously it is necessary for tooling leather, but I am not a tooling fan.
My favorite is simple black oil tan. Color all the way through and wears like iron. Hard to cut, hard to form...tough stuff...but that's the reason the best motorcycle boots are made of it.
I may sit and work on this tomorrow. Gentle cleaning, taking time....it's suede. The shiny parts need cleaned and the nap raised up again with a brush, it's just matted down, not worn off.
If it goes South on me I'll do it in a smooth black polish. Sacrilege to suede fans but it does work, I have done it before.
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Suede is certainly different than a finished leather. But if you want...you can just finish it.
Color, then polish, then light sanding to remove the remaining nap, then polish again.
Picture some good scuffs in a shoe where the leather is exposed and rough. It is essentially just suede at that point. It can be re-colored and refinished and you will never see the scuff.
Same deal but instead of a scuff it's the entire surface.
With something this big I would probably use the buffing wheel in the garage.
I am not a suede fan either but this is a rare case and I jumped on it.
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you can literally shave suede and then fill up the nap with leather conditioner to "stuff" it and achieve a smooth finish. It is, however, a messy affair and requires a lot of handwork to alter the surface texture.
I would not recommend it to anyone who values their time.
I would not recommend it to anyone who values their time.
That'w why I would use my big buffing wheel. LOL!
But yeah...labor intensive.
By far not the first choice, but if the suede is beyond cleaning, raising the nap, and maybe fixing color issues...it becomes the only option short of re-covering the case.
This case should clean up nice anyway so likely the point is moot.
I haven't touched it yet.
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Here is a Kitangiri (out of business) fly rod case that I have been carrying 2 cues and 2 shafts in. It was made in Australia from buffalo. It's 32.5" long and the interior is almost 3" across. Sturdy, attractive - just needs something for the interior to hold the items. I've been using a felt 1x2 sleeve.
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What a phenomenal thread! TONS of stuff of which I had NO earthly idea... wow. Great info.
That is so cool!!!
Ask John Barton for an ultrapad insert he can sell you one separately maybe. Or you can have an upholstery shop see you one. Thin foam sandwiched between cloth.
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Thanks, I was going to contact John. The first thing I did was take one of the 2x4 felt inserts from my JB Dealer case and try to modify it, but that was a fail. When I bought the dealer case John offered me all sorts of options for the inserts, so I know he can come up with something.
OK-
So what the heck is this brown oval case? http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=473524
And for your viewing pleasure, some cases:
So what the heck is this brown oval case? http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=473524
And for your viewing pleasure, some cases:
OK-
So what the heck is this brown oval case? http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=473524
And for your viewing pleasure, some cases:
Second from right... Fellini, yes?
I keep a Palmer first catalog Model 9 in this case. I don't think the case is era correct, but it sure looks the part.
OK, so I finally got around to cleaning this case. I had pneumonia and was a bit laid up, stuck at home over the weekend. Feeling much better now. Since I was basically sitting at home I decided to haul out that case and work on it. HUGE payoff for the time involved and it was very easy.
I also did some dent removal on a couple shafts that came out great.
The case turned out "like new". Amazing. No need to dye it, or go for a smooth leather look. The suede came our really awesome.
I will post pics soon.
I should really get some pics with some of my other cases...we'll see if I get time.
If anybody knows what the heck this is, please post.
We found one other that was posted: https://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=6068733&postcount=116
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Yes. That is the original case to my first cue, my block letter Joss. Had it since 1985.
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Not without marring the leather. I wanted to add softening the leather at the seam, stretching it, and quickly gluing it in place might yield desired results, but doubtful.
IMO removing the leather is not a viable option because of the riveted lock. There is no way to remove the lock and replace it with a NOS lock over new leather. You might be satisfied with new leather and not replacing the lock if the top has a super tight fit. That still leaves visible holes in the top from the lock. With all of that you still have to be able to replicate the finished ends with the new leather, another monumental task.
If the seam separation is uniform then gluing a strip of leather in the gap might be your best move, then refinish the leather to mask the inserted strip. Fellinis have a flat land about 1.5" wide on the front and back. You can cut a strip wide enough to make it easier to replace the one separated seam with two new tight seams. Take care to match up the width with the finished ends and their angle cuts for a clean look.
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And for your viewing pleasure, some cases:
That iconic lock has no equal