I need to change a couple tips on several cues I'm wondering what glue works best should I use a rubbery tape glue Aura woodworking glue? I know super glue is probably out as it's too brittle would Gorilla Glue work?
Help with changing a tip on a cue
- Thread starter The8reader
- Start date
You use Loctite 401
There's absolutely nothing wrong with using super glue.
Loctite, like Kim said, is probably the best choice of the lot.
Every cue I own has super glue holding the tip on.
Even a break cue. That's standard practice.
I don't know any cue makers that would use much else
these days.
Loctite, like Kim said, is probably the best choice of the lot.
Every cue I own has super glue holding the tip on.
Even a break cue. That's standard practice.
I don't know any cue makers that would use much else
these days.
Gorilla super glue, has a shock resistant formula ,that I like. When reading the product dat sheet, there's something about rubber fibers in the make up. I have been using it for years and have to take some time cutting the tips off, when ever I need to install a new one. I usually make sure the tip is sanded flat , along with the mating surface. I will put the tip on the top of the cue shaft and while holding it down with one finger, raise the tip and shaft up to a light and see if I can spot any light shining through under the tip and ferrule. If I see any light I re-sand every thing until there's no light seen.
Before applying the glue, I use some clear gift wrapping tape and go around the ferrule as close to the surface as possible. This will keep the glue from getting on the ferrule and making a bigger mess, and is quick to take off after the tip is dried. I hold the tip down on the ferrule while slowly counting to 60, then lay the shaft and tip to the side for a few hours and let it all cure ...Hope that helps.
Before applying the glue, I use some clear gift wrapping tape and go around the ferrule as close to the surface as possible. This will keep the glue from getting on the ferrule and making a bigger mess, and is quick to take off after the tip is dried. I hold the tip down on the ferrule while slowly counting to 60, then lay the shaft and tip to the side for a few hours and let it all cure ...Hope that helps.
X2 on the Gorilla super glue.
I used to use 2 part epoxy exclusively but this stuff works
just as well without the extra labor and mess.
I used to use 2 part epoxy exclusively but this stuff works
just as well without the extra labor and mess.
If you don't know what glue to use, should you really be doing your own tips?!
IMO, the best glue for a DIY is Tweeten's, just don't believe the 10 minute set time. It's best to let it sit clamped overnight. Once it sets you'll have a solid bond. The beauty of Tweeten's is that it is water soluble so you can wipe off whatever excess seeps out and get it off your ferrule and the new tip without a lathe.
I seem to recall a while back a cue mechanic put the nixsay on Gorilla Glue because it expands and will leave a joint seam.
Lou Figueroa
Could be, but there are many different types of gorilla glue. The label fell off my bottle so I don't know which one I have.
This only works on a porous fibre based ferrule. Hyde glues and rubber cements will not work on thermoset plastics. Neither will epoxy. On cues like Predator, Lucasi and Mezz, you have to use superglue.
One trick I use is to put superglue on the back of the tip first. Leather drinks glue. So, sand the back of the tip with a coarse sandpaper. I usually use 120 grit. Then, put a dob of superglue on the sanded base, and use a q tip, or paper towel to spread the glue into a thin layer on the tip. Leave it for 5 minutes. Sand it lightly with 400 grit sandpaper, just to smooth the base. Then, apply some glue to the ferrule, and work the tip into the glue, spreading the glue to make sure there’s no gaps in coverage. Centre the tip and hold for 10 seconds.
Using glue on the back of the tip before attaching it increases your working time slightly, which helps you centre the tip a little easier on the ferrule. If you don’t prime the tip, they tend to “freeze” on the ferrule fairly quickly.
Gorilla glue works.. A little dampness on both surfaces and pressure to hold the tip.
I wrap a wide rubber band around the shaft, stretched over the tip, for about an hour.
Use a razor blade to cut excess glue that squeezes out from between the shaft & tip.
.
I use epoxy on everything, not once have I had a tip come off mine or a customers cue. Nor have I had a tip not be completely adhered.
Super glue’s work as long as the installer doesn’t starve the joint of glue. But super glue doesn’t have a very long shelf life.
I’d rather just mix two drops of 5 minute epoxy and have the peace of mind knowing the tip is definitely not going to pop off or not have a complete layer of adhesive in between the tip and ferrule. Sure it takes an hour or so to cure but I’m also not installing more than a couple of tips a day.
I agree with this. I'll only add one qualification. If the exposed wood tenon is very large, compared to the entire surface with ferrule, even plastic, sometimes carpenters wood glue is a very good option. However, I would add it's a good option as long as a fiber base is touching tenon and ferrule, rather than the tip itself.
Small tenon, mostly plastic ferrule surface, I agree super glue is best. I prefer gel for those.
All the best,
WW
- Sand the glue side of the tip with 180 grit sandpaper on a flat surface.
- Blow of dust from the tip, put a drop of cyano glue on the tip and smear it out, if you are in a rush, use a kicker to instantly harden the cyano.
- Sand flat with 180, then 400 grit.
- make sure your ferrule and tip are flat, you should be able to put both surfaces together and feel no wobble or uneveness.
- Dab a q-tip with denatured alcohol on both surfaces.
- Glue the tip to the ferrule, use enough glue, but not so much that it runs down the ferrule and shaft.
- Don`t use anything else than a quality cyanoacrylate. Loctite 401 works with every type of ferrule/tip combo I have come across and I do hundreds of tips each year.
- Wipe off the excess, and again use the kicker if you have it.
- Trim the tip, a lathe is obviously the best tool for the job, if you don`t have that, use a single edge blade, like a kiridashi or a chiesel. Don`t use coarse sandpaer and no files.
- Use a caliper to measure the ferrule diameter, then make sure your tip has the same diameter.
- Take the tip down to a reasonable height. Layered tips are meant to be trimmed several layers.
- Seal the sides with some colourless leather polish and use a bit of paper or leather to burnish the sides.
- Blow of dust from the tip, put a drop of cyano glue on the tip and smear it out, if you are in a rush, use a kicker to instantly harden the cyano.
- Sand flat with 180, then 400 grit.
- make sure your ferrule and tip are flat, you should be able to put both surfaces together and feel no wobble or uneveness.
- Dab a q-tip with denatured alcohol on both surfaces.
- Glue the tip to the ferrule, use enough glue, but not so much that it runs down the ferrule and shaft.
- Don`t use anything else than a quality cyanoacrylate. Loctite 401 works with every type of ferrule/tip combo I have come across and I do hundreds of tips each year.
- Wipe off the excess, and again use the kicker if you have it.
- Trim the tip, a lathe is obviously the best tool for the job, if you don`t have that, use a single edge blade, like a kiridashi or a chiesel. Don`t use coarse sandpaer and no files.
- Use a caliper to measure the ferrule diameter, then make sure your tip has the same diameter.
- Take the tip down to a reasonable height. Layered tips are meant to be trimmed several layers.
- Seal the sides with some colourless leather polish and use a bit of paper or leather to burnish the sides.
Of all the glues I've used over the years, this brand works best for gluing and staying fresh when closed back up and is available everywhere around here.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=104607686
Apply to the tip, spread to the edge, touch the glue on napkin and quickly pick straight up to take away the excess, wet the ferrule lightly, apply the tip and center quickly.
I then like to vary the pressure applied for about 30 seconds as it seems to make the glue able to compress from hard shots without the tip coming off. Let it sit for 10 minutes at least and don't shoot a hard draw shot for a few hours or so.
There are tools to help you do that, but that's another thread for another day.
Jeff Livingston
I have used Loctite super glue Ultra Gel for a few years now..... No problems as of yet...
If you are referring to Tweeten's -- I have been using Tweeten's on ivory ferrules for years and years.
Lou Figueroa
