1940s Brunswick Anniversary

R

rayme

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hello all,

I just purchased a 1940s anniversary table, pretty excited about it.
Ive read through most of what I can find on here as far as restoration goes.

I am looking for any advise from anyone experienced in the area of restoring these tables.

I've found online the replacement leg bans and I'll probably send off the casts to a metal shop for polishing.

Thank you all in advance!
 

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pt109

pt109

WO double hemlock
Silver Member
Yes, it’s got the wood rails...it’s a beauty.
I know a guy who loaded the legs with sand bags before the slate was installed...
...makes the table play even better.
 
S

SBC

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I restored a 1962. You can polish the aluminum castings horself using buffing wheels and compound...nasty job but they come out great.

I stripped all the wood, stained and finished it all. Then taped off and repainted the white lines on sides.

New cushions and built pockets out to 4.5" with diamond specs. Plays great.

I found a early anniversary revolving 12 cue rack on eBay and restored it to match....nothing as cool as old school.

Enjoy the journey...it will be awesome.
 

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R

rayme

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Man that is a slick looking table.

Everything is in pretty nice shape. Though one of the side skirts is missing a small peice, that's my biggest concern.
I read someone had one built by a custom cabinet shop. I'll probably start there.
 
chevybob20

chevybob20

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I restored a Centennial. So, here's my advice.

1) The cushion profile used on that table is not available anymore. To properly replace them, you need you the subrails replaced and then you can replace the cushions with K55 profile cushions. Brunswick Superspeed or Artemis. Mark Gregory (perfect pockets on here) did mine.

2) If you have a bench grinder, replace the grinding wheel with a buffing wheel. You can strip and put a shine on the corner castings in minutes, saving a lot of money. I have a cheap one that did the trick.

3) The pocket shelves are shallow and the pockets are huge. It will play too easy. I suggest having the subrails extended to reduce the pocket size to 4.5". At 4.5" the table will still play like a hungry hippo.

4) Check the slate. If it's Pennsylvania blue stone (Slate) it may need resurfacing to level due to years of wear. The balls will roll off into the pockets when nearing the edge.

5) If you apply the finish to this table yourself without a spray gun (best way) I recommend using Street Shoe XL. It can be top coated and it is harder than urethane. It never yellows and can be brush applied. It's water based.

Good luck and congrats. I believe the Anniversary and Centennial tables were the best made and the best looking.
 
Steve Dickey

Steve Dickey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Congrats on your new table. Enjoy the process, it's definitely a learning,and rewarding, experience.
 
R

rayme

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
chevybob20 said:
I restored a Centennial. So, here's my advice.

1) The cushion profile used on that table is not available anymore. To properly replace them, you need you the subrails replaced and then you can replace the cushions with K55 profile cushions. Brunswick Superspeed or Artemis. Mark Gregory (perfect pockets on here) did mine.

2) If you have a bench grinder, replace the grinding wheel with a buffing wheel. You can strip and put a shine on the corner castings in minutes, saving a lot of money. I have a cheap one that did the trick.

3) The pocket shelves are shallow and the pockets are huge. It will play too easy. I suggest having the subrails extended to reduce the pocket size to 4.5". At 4.5" the table will still play like a hungry hippo.

4) Check the slate. If it's Pennsylvania blue stone (Slate) it may need resurfacing to level due to years of wear. The balls will roll off into the pockets when nearing the edge.

5) If you apply the finish to this table yourself without a spray gun (best way) I recommend using Street Shoe XL. It can be top coated and it is harder than urethane. It never yellows and can be brush applied. It's water based.

Good luck and congrats. I believe the Anniversary and Centennial tables were the best made and the best looking.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great info!
 
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