I'm getting very close to putting my table together and want to convert it to a ball return. I believe I need the the rails, pockets and ball box. I believe the rails for the return are specific to the IV. Where would I find this stuff?
Really? I've always been told that the 4's are way nicer than the 3's. A lot of what was wrong on the 3 was fixed on the 4. At least that's what more than one mech. has told me.Classic Billiards is a very good site. There is a chance that the GC lV parts may not be available to convert. There weren't too many ball return models manufactured. Brunswick started getting cheap with their product beginning with the GC lll and really carried over to the lV.
Really? I've always been told that the 4's are way nicer than the 3's. A lot of what was wrong on the 3 was fixed on the 4. At least that's what more than one mech. has told me.
The 3's play fine but a lot of their construction is not. The slates aren't pinned, frames were made in Brazil(good-bad i don't know), real easy to cut yourself on ball-counter. Lot of little shortcuts used on the 3. The 4's have real slate(1's,2's,and some 3's were Brunstone), flush pockets, etc. http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=201202 For all things GC you need to contact RealKingCobra here on AZ. He knows dates,slates, parts etc.The IV's were definitely an improvement over the III's. To be quite honest with you I don't think the III's are bad. I'm a Gold Crown guy and like the way they play. At a minimum the IV's are 10+ years old and the previous versions could be over 50 years old. Sure improvements can be made to them and I'm taking the steps to insure my plays phenomenally.
No. Why can't you just take balls out of the pockets? Why would you want/need a separate(and expensive) mechanism to send all the balls to a ball-box? Personally i HATE ball-return tables. Play a few hours and believe me, bending over and digging out balls gets OLD pretty quick. And if you like playing 1p they really suck. What you describe surely COULD be built but i don't see it ever happening.I always wanted a combo drop/return table. The pockets would fill as you play, so you can know where each went, etc. for practice purposes or for game rules, etc., but then when ready to rack you could pull a lever and release all the balls and they'd THEN roll into the ball return for convenience.
Is there such a table or table system out there for that?
Jeff Livingston
The 3's play fine but a lot of their construction is not. The slates aren't pinned, frames were made in Brazil(good-bad i don't know), real easy to cut yourself on ball-counter. Lot of little shortcuts used on the 3. The 4's have real slate(1's,2's,and some 3's were Brunstone), flush pockets, etc. http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=201202 For all things GC you need to contact RealKingCobra here on AZ. He knows dates,slates, parts etc.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=132657&highlight=metroI specifically wanted a 4 for those reasons. no counters, real slate and flush pockets. Even though I overpaid for my table I'm happy I have one that never saw commercial use. Mark Gregory will be doing the rail work and I'll fix the frame's shortcomings. I'd be really happy if I could get RKC to set it up.
The 3's play fine but a lot of their construction is not. The slates aren't pinned, frames were made in Brazil(good-bad i don't know), real easy to cut yourself on ball-counter. Lot of little shortcuts used on the 3. The 4's have real slate(1's,2's,and some 3's were Brunstone), flush pockets, etc. http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=201202 For all things GC you need to contact RealKingCobra here on AZ. He knows dates,slates, parts etc.
Great link for anyone who has a GCIV.
How can you spot Brunstone from even 10 feet away?That Brunstone plays like MDF instead of slate, even Slatron would have even been a better choice, I can tell a Brunstone Gold Crown from 30 feet away its so crappy, thats why nobody should buy any GCI or GCII. Any of you who have a GCI or GCII with Brunstone feel free to contact me and I will come pick it up and dispose of it properly free of charge.
Brunstone plays fine. Biggest problem is its really brittle. Moving one takes a lot of care not to break it. It also can dip/sway over time and that's tough to fix correctly without breaking it.That Brunstone plays like MDF instead of slate, even Slatron would have even been a better choice, I can tell a Brunstone Gold Crown from 30 feet away its so crappy, thats why nobody should buy any GCI or GCII. Any of you who have a GCI or GCII with Brunstone feel free to contact me and I will come pick it up and dispose of it properly free of charge.
You can't. Slate will be grayish colored with machining/grinding marks. Brunstone has sort of a rusty-brownish tint and feels kinda like sandstone. No machining marks. I grew on 1's & 2's. They played fine.How can you spot Brunstone from even 10 feet away?
As far as playing differently.......
How?
How can you spot Brunstone from even 10 feet away?
As far as playing differently.......
How?
See this discussion about Brunstone.....
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?246125&p=3209453#post3209453
Quote from discussion......
It doesn't really matter if you already have a GC with Brunstone slate, just as long as it's in good condition.
Glen - RKC
No. Why can't you just take balls out of the pockets? Why would you want/need a separate(and expensive) mechanism to send all the balls to a ball-box? Personally i HATE ball-return tables. Play a few hours and believe me, bending over and digging out balls gets OLD pretty quick. And if you like playing 1p they really suck. What you describe surely COULD be built but i don't see it ever happening.